Top St-Emilion 2017 wines
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See the wines rated 91 points and above, following extensive Bordeaux en primeur tastings across the appellation. This article is available exclusively to Premium members online.
It’s worth pointing out that the greatest terroirs were not always spared by the notorious frost in St-Emilion, unlike in the Médoc, because it was just so much more widespread and wind direction had a large impact.
Scroll down to see the wines
Yields over here were 21.7hl/ha for St-Emilion (less than half of last year), and 23.9hl/ha for Pomerol, around 40% less than 2016.
Over in Fronsac, the altitude helped and although there was a lot of frost, almost no one seemed to lose more than 50%, and a number of estates up on the highest point of the plateau lost nothing at all.
Yields at estates like Château Monlot tell their own story about how hard it is to generalise in 2017 – they had an average of 17hl/ha, but that equated to almost zero in frost affected vines and a pretty average 40hl/ha in non-frost affected.
It means that having frost does not have to equate to affecting the quality of the first wine, assuming the grapes were very carefully sorted, and many estates made excellent bottles just in small quantities. In frost-affected estates, you’ll find unusual blends such as at Château Jean Faure (95% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec) and at Fleur Cardinale (30% Cabernets compared to around 10% normally).
The gravel-clay plateau in Pomerol and much of the limestone plateau across Fronsac, St-Emilion and Castillon survived many of the season’s challenges, although the cool nights meant that the austere, saline side of limestone is very much on display in a lot of them, something that will not make them universally popular.
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You’ll also find unusually low alcohols across most of the Right Bank. Château Pavie is at 14.6%, Petrus in Pomerol also around the same level, but most wines are a good percentage lower than that.
This is because although it was an early budding and early harvest, the summer (although extremely dry) had cool nights, plus there were September rains to contend with, so the fruit character is inevitably a little fresher and juicier than in recent years.
Jane’s top St-Emilion 2017 wines:
Wines below scored 91 points and above. See all St-Emilion 2017 ratings here.
See all St-Emilion 2017 ratings here
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Château Ausone, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is totally stunning, demonstrating depth, texture, salinity and flesh. It manages to be both austere and generous at the same time, pushing and pulling....
2017
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Château AusoneSt-Émilion
Château Angélus, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Some frost impact (seen in the 70% Merlot and lower Cabernet Franc than usual), but clearly not getting in the way of success, this Angélus...
2017
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Château AngélusSt-Émilion
Château Troplong Mondot, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2017

The first year of what has been a major stylistic shift at the property, with a mix of both evident changes - bringing the harvest...
2017
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Château Troplong MondotSt-Émilion
Château Cheval Blanc, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Fresh herbs on the nose, still with the trademark perfumed black fruits but more at the background. More gravel fruit in the blend this year...
2017
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Château Cheval BlancSt-Émilion
Château Pavie, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Excellent concentration and freshness with linear, rich black fruits. You can really feel the crunchy, impressive layers of cigar box, blackberry and slate. It slowly...
2017
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Château PavieSt-Émilion
Château Bélair-Monange, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This has the austerity of limestone in 2017 but it also has the well-worked, delicate flesh of these exemplary soils, and the careful inching forward...
2017
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Château Bélair-MonangeSt-Émilion
Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is one of the best examples of this wine that I have tasted, reaching the same heights as some of the biggest names in...
2017
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Château Beauséjour Duffau-LagarrosseSt-Émilion
Château Canon, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Canon remains pretty austere at this stage with the Cabernet Franc dominating. It's not as immediately seductive as some years, but you can feel the...
2017
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Château CanonSt-Émilion
Château Trotte Vieille, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is definitely an impressive 2017 with white pepper spice showcasing its own character that diverts sharply from St Emilion's fruitbombs. It's good quality, grown...
2017
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Château Trotte VieilleSt-Émilion
Clos Fourtet, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2017

While lacking aromatic intensity, the palate exudes breadth and density. One encounters some palate steeliness akin to the 2011 vintage and 2006 ripe fruit warmth,...
2017
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Clos FourtetSt-Émilion
Château Fleur Cardinale, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

There's very little of this wine in 2017 due to the frost. Full credit to Fleur Cardinale for what they have achieved here, producing just...
2017
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Château Fleur CardinaleSt-Émilion
Château Figeac, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2017

The 2017 possesses a more earthy character than 2018 and 2019, but it is also endowed with finely focused aromas of black fruit, spice, and...
2017
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Château FigeacSt-Émilion
Château Valandraud, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Rich, layered, complex, a winner in a difficult vintage, full of juice and salinity. Feels alive, with the natural break of the vintage nicely played...
2017
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Château ValandraudSt-Émilion
Château Beau-Séjour Bécot, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Lovely dark chocolate and fresh mint aromas are followed by a textured, silky and soft palate. It has a slightly gourmet feel, but is very...
2017
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Château Beau-Séjour BécotSt-Émilion
Château Quintus, St-Émilion, Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Lighter bodied and less concentrated than the vintages either side [2018 and 2016], but this is fine and racy and equally precise. There is more...
2017
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Château QuintusSt-Émilion
Le Dôme, St-Émilion, Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, 2017

You can feel the slight difference in style that one degree less alcohol makes this year, but it retains rich notes of coffee bean, chocolate,...
2017
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Le DômeSt-Émilion
Château Pavie Decesse, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Intense and powerful, again a reflection of house philosophy. Layered and sexy, it is always the wine that I like the most in the Perse...
2017
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Château Pavie DecesseSt-Émilion
Château Bellevue Mondotte, St-Émilion, Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Up on the plateau, this was spared the ravages of frost but still only yielded 16hl/ha. It has the Perse signature punch of fruit, then...
2017
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Château Bellevue MondotteSt-Émilion
Château La Fleur Morange, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Claude Gros consults at this 2ha estate, founded in 1999 by Veronique and Jean François Julien. This is extremely accomplished in a challenging year, with...
2017
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Château La Fleur MorangeSt-Émilion
Château Lassègue, St-Émilion, Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, 2017

A floral touch from the first nose, smoky but delicate, with a powerful and surprisingly supple touch to the tannins. This must be one of...
2017
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Château LassègueSt-Émilion
Château Fonplégade, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

2017 is not the biggest vintage at this estate, but it is polished and enjoyable and has a lot to celebrate. It has juice and...
2017
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Château FonplégadeSt-Émilion
Château Le Prieuré, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This has absolutely wonderful richness and freshness with a saline note - I tasted it twice and it impressed even more the second time. It's...
2017
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Château Le PrieuréSt-Émilion
Château Pavie Macquin, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Powerful but well-rounded and carefully extracted, this has the St-Emilion confident power but tons of wonderful slate character to hold everything in check. There are...
2017
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Château Pavie MacquinSt-Émilion
Château de Ferrand, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Forest strawberry and autumnal fruit aromas are purer than in the comparable 2014 vintage, with a cleaner and crisper palate in this transitional vintage. The...
2017
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Château de FerrandSt-Émilion
Château La Dominique, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is a little underwhelming in terms of its fruit expression, with some savoury cassis and bilberry flavours on the fringes of under ripeness. It's...
2017
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Château La DominiqueSt-Émilion
Château St-Georges Côte Pavie, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

A dry but coolish summer combined with limestone soils certainly sends those pH levels pretty low. Although fairly tight and austere, this unfolds prettily with...
2017
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Château St-Georges Côte PavieSt-Émilion
Château La Gaffelière, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is very good stuff from Malet-Roquefort. Firm, dark, cassis and bilberry fruits are joined by insisting tannins which make their appearance early and hang...
2017
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Château La GaffelièreSt-Émilion
Clos Dubreuil, St-Émilion, Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, 2017

A great job in this vintage from Benoit Trocard. It's well-handled and contemporary, with a damson and cocoa bean dusting and a clear sense of...
2017
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Clos DubreuilSt-Émilion
Château Fombrauge, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Magrez has done a good job in 2017 pretty much across the board - these are wines that have the natural austerity of the vintage,...
2017
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Château FombraugeSt-Émilion
Château Haut Sarpe, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

A good wine in the vintage from the Jean-François Janoueix stable, from 21.5ha of vines. Brambly fruits on the nose lead into a palate with...
2017
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Château Haut SarpeSt-Émilion
Château La Couspaude, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Majoring on tar and clove notes, followed by grilled patisserie flavours, this has definite oak influence. The palate is slightly drying, but there is a...
2017
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Château La CouspaudeSt-Émilion
Château La Serre, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is an estate that I love, but this year it's extremely inhibited and will take its time to open. It hasn't reached the heights...
2017
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Château La SerreSt-Émilion
Château Quinault L'Enclos, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

This is a success for an estate that has now seen ten years under the stewardship of Cheval Blanc, undergoing lots of replanting and reworking...
2017
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Château Quinault L'EnclosSt-Émilion
Château Angélus, Le Carillon d'Angélus, St-Émilion, Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Frost at Angelus affected around 10% of blocks for the grand vin, but Carillon (which has been from a different vineyard since 1996, together with...
2017
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Château AngélusSt-Émilion
Vieux Château Mazerat, St-Émilion, Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Silky, rich and supple, with a slight grilled vanilla bean and toasted brioche edge. This has a really lovely depth of fruit, a lovely wine...
2017
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Vieux Château MazeratSt-Émilion
Château Ripeau, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

A frostaffected year, so low yields and an unusual blend (70% Merlot with Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon), but one they were so happy with that...
2017
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Château RipeauSt-Émilion
Château Bellevue, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

The low pH of 3.5 makes this difficult to taste when very young, but there's still a lot to get out of it. It's a...
2017
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Château BellevueSt-Émilion
Château La Marzelle, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

They were affected by frost here so the yields are pretty low, but to deal with the resulting irregularity they employed very precise fruit reception,...
2017
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Château La MarzelleSt-Émilion
Château Laroque, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2017

Located up at 102m, the second highest point in the appellation after Troplong Mondot, the grand vin had no frost and a normal yield (accounting...
2017
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Château LaroqueSt-Émilion
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
