Barbaresco Riserva 2018: Vintage report and 11 recommendations
The 2018 vintage in Barbaresco was beset by a litany of climatic hurdles, yet Aldo Fiordelli argues that there are some more delicate Riservas which will provide charming early drinking.
Get our daily fine wine reviews, latest wine ratings, news and travel guides delivered straight to your inbox.
You are now subscribed
Your newsletter sign-up was successful
Either way you look at it, 2018 was not really a Riserva vintage in Piedmont’s Barbaresco DOCG. There was the spring frost, the hail on 17 July, then a good deal of rain on top of the warm climate. These challenges beset producers desperate for a large harvest after the drought-like 2017 vintage.
The hot weather allied to the rainfall should have been perfect for higher yields in 2018, but instead it resulted in dilute wines in the worst examples, and a light, graceful Barbaresco for more immediate drinking in the best.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 11 recommended Barbaresco Riserva 2018 wines
Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco confirmed that the region’s acclaimed cooperative would not produce a Riserva in 2018.
Similar news ensued from Gaia Gaja, who said that her Gaja winery would not produce its top selection Sorì range (San Lorenzo, Tildin and Costa Russi) in this vintage.
On the one hand, the reputation of 2018 is perhaps too low. Walter Lodali confesses: ‘the wines are hard to sell compared to 2019.’
From September, with the arrival of the round 2020 wines on the market, I would imagine they will become even harder to sell. This is a shame, because although the wines might not be particularly ageworthy, there are nevertheless a lot of delicious, typical Barbaresco that are expressive now and easy to drink.
On the other hand, the consensus about the vintage proves how difficult it may have been to produce a Riserva.
Get our daily fine wine reviews, latest wine ratings, news and travel guides delivered straight to your inbox.
Looking closer at the growing season, it was defined by a longer than usual winter with abundant rainfall that replenished groundwater resources depleted by climatic trends leading up to 2017.
A single heatwave occurred at the end of April which led to an early bud break, then rains and below average temperatures continued across April, May and June.
Halfway through July, temperatures rose significantly but a bad hailstorm hit the region on Sunday 17 July. September was sunny, with two hot weeks that allowed the grapes to ripen faster. Harvest concluded by the first week of October, a date that often marks its beginning.
Not a sound spring, not a regular veraison, not a long growing season. In my opinion, the 2018 vintage lacks the favourable elements needed to imagine a Riserva. There were a handful of good examples, but not much more than that due to the lack of volume, concentration and complexity.
Barbaresco Riserva 2018 recommendations
Related articles
- Barbaresco: panel tasting results
- Barolo vs Brunello vs Barbaresco: What’s the difference?
- Barbaresco 2019 vintage report: 40 wines to try
Bera, Basarin Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

Very restrained, with sweet violet, cherry kernel and a stunning, deep Vicks balsam note. The nose becomes vibrant with time in the glass, revealing a...
2018
PiedmontItaly
BeraBarbaresco
Castello di Neive, Albesani Vigna Santo Stefano Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

The minerality shines with a stony character, alongside liquorice, balsamic and pomegranate fruit soaked with violet and cinnamon. Full of sucrosity on the palate, this...
2018
PiedmontItaly
Castello di NeiveBarbaresco
Roberto Sarotto, Currà Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

Dark, compacted colours. Earthy tones of liquorice, tamarind and graphite. A dark chocolate flavour full of black fruits. A very powerful Riserva 2018 with burning...
2018
PiedmontItaly
Roberto SarottoBarbaresco
Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy, Camp Gros Martinenga Riserva, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

Dark ruby in the glass, it opens up to a mint, cinnamon and violet candy sweetness and restrained red fruits. The attack is dense and...
2018
PiedmontItaly
Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di GrésyBarbaresco
Punset, Basarin Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

After this producer's outstanding 2016 Riserva, here there is a leaner vintage. The wine is very pale and ruby, but very rich on the nose,...
2018
PiedmontItaly
PunsetBarbaresco
Rizzi, Vigna Boito Riserva, Barbaresco, Treiso, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

Shows some complex notes of macerated flowers and rich, cherry jelly fruit. The attack is soft and the frame quite light with moderate acidity sustained...
2018
PiedmontItaly
RizziBarbaresco
Punset, San Cristoforo Campo Quadro Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

This is usually a fiercely representative Barbaresco, but the 2018 vintage would not have helped its well-known powerful style. A more elegant result here, with...
2018
PiedmontItaly
PunsetBarbaresco
Briccogrilli, Serragrilli Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

Floral to the fore, with rose, violet and geranium, then pomegranate and earthy minerality. The palate is savoury and refined, with velvety tannins and a...
2018
PiedmontItaly
BriccogrilliBarbaresco
Fratelli Giacosa, Basarin Vigna Gianmatè Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

Black pepper and crunchy redcurrant fruit; simple yet well-defined style. A bit lean on the finish. Vigna Gianmatè comes from within the Basarin MGA in...
2018
PiedmontItaly
Fratelli GiacosaBarbaresco
Manera, Rizzi Riserva, Barbaresco, Treiso, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

Generously focused on fruit, with ripe cherry under almost-spirity red fruits. The tannins are silky and light, enjoyable, with refreshing acidity. Lacks volume and frame....
2018
PiedmontItaly
ManeraBarbaresco
Socré, Roncaglie Riserva, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

Pale ruby in the glass, it seems to be slightly reductive at first, then opens up to dried cherry, cola, violet and rose aromas. ...
2018
PiedmontItaly
SocréBarbaresco

Aldo Fiordelli is an Italian wine critic, journalist and wine writer. He has published four books about food, wine and art and is a regular Decanter contributor.
In Italy he is an editorial board member of L’Espresso restaurant and wine guide (one of Italy’s most prominent) since 2004. He also writes for Corriere della sera in Florence, as well as Civiltà del Bere (Italy’s oldest Italian wine magazine).
A certified sommelier since 2003, he is currently a 2nd stage student at the Institute of the Masters of Wine.
In 2017 he was named Chevalier de l’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne.
Aldo joined DWWA for the first time as a judge in 2019.