Barbaresco Riserva 2018
Credit: Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy
(Image credit: Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy)

Either way you look at it, 2018 was not really a Riserva vintage in Piedmont’s Barbaresco DOCG. There was the spring frost, the hail on 17 July, then a good deal of rain on top of the warm climate. These challenges beset producers desperate for a large harvest after the drought-like 2017 vintage.

The hot weather allied to the rainfall should have been perfect for higher yields in 2018, but instead it resulted in dilute wines in the worst examples, and a light, graceful Barbaresco for more immediate drinking in the best.



Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco confirmed that the region’s acclaimed cooperative would not produce a Riserva in 2018.

Similar news ensued from Gaia Gaja, who said that her Gaja winery would not produce its top selection Sorì range (San Lorenzo, Tildin and Costa Russi) in this vintage.

On the one hand, the reputation of 2018 is perhaps too low. Walter Lodali confesses: ‘the wines are hard to sell compared to 2019.’

From September, with the arrival of the round 2020 wines on the market, I would imagine they will become even harder to sell. This is a shame, because although the wines might not be particularly ageworthy, there are nevertheless a lot of delicious, typical Barbaresco that are expressive now and easy to drink.

On the other hand, the consensus about the vintage proves how difficult it may have been to produce a Riserva.

Looking closer at the growing season, it was defined by a longer than usual winter with abundant rainfall that replenished groundwater resources depleted by climatic trends leading up to 2017.

A single heatwave occurred at the end of April which led to an early bud break, then rains and below average temperatures continued across April, May and June.

Halfway through July, temperatures rose significantly but a bad hailstorm hit the region on Sunday 17 July. September was sunny, with two hot weeks that allowed the grapes to ripen faster. Harvest concluded by the first week of October, a date that often marks its beginning.

Not a sound spring, not a regular veraison, not a long growing season. In my opinion, the 2018 vintage lacks the favourable elements needed to imagine a Riserva. There were a handful of good examples, but not much more than that due to the lack of volume, concentration and complexity.


Barbaresco Riserva 2018 recommendations


Bera, Basarin Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

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Very restrained, with sweet violet, cherry kernel and a stunning, deep Vicks balsam note. The nose becomes vibrant with time in the glass, revealing a...

2018

PiedmontItaly

BeraBarbaresco

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Castello di Neive, Albesani Vigna Santo Stefano Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

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The minerality shines with a stony character, alongside liquorice, balsamic and pomegranate fruit soaked with violet and cinnamon. Full of sucrosity on the palate, this...

2018

PiedmontItaly

Castello di NeiveBarbaresco

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Roberto Sarotto, Currà Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

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Dark, compacted colours. Earthy tones of liquorice, tamarind and graphite. A dark chocolate flavour full of black fruits. A very powerful Riserva 2018 with burning...

2018

PiedmontItaly

Roberto SarottoBarbaresco

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Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy, Camp Gros Martinenga Riserva, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

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Dark ruby in the glass, it opens up to a mint, cinnamon and violet candy sweetness and restrained red fruits. The attack is dense and...

2018

PiedmontItaly

Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di GrésyBarbaresco

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Punset, Basarin Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

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After this producer's outstanding 2016 Riserva, here there is a leaner vintage. The wine is very pale and ruby, but very rich on the nose,...

2018

PiedmontItaly

PunsetBarbaresco

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Rizzi, Vigna Boito Riserva, Barbaresco, Treiso, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

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Shows some complex notes of macerated flowers and rich, cherry jelly fruit. The attack is soft and the frame quite light with moderate acidity sustained...

2018

PiedmontItaly

RizziBarbaresco

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Punset, San Cristoforo Campo Quadro Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

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This is usually a fiercely representative Barbaresco, but the 2018 vintage would not have helped its well-known powerful style. A more elegant result here, with...

2018

PiedmontItaly

PunsetBarbaresco

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Briccogrilli, Serragrilli Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

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Floral to the fore, with rose, violet and geranium, then pomegranate and earthy minerality. The palate is savoury and refined, with velvety tannins and a...

2018

PiedmontItaly

BriccogrilliBarbaresco

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Fratelli Giacosa, Basarin Vigna Gianmatè Riserva, Barbaresco, Neive, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

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Black pepper and crunchy redcurrant fruit; simple yet well-defined style. A bit lean on the finish. Vigna Gianmatè comes from within the Basarin MGA in...

2018

PiedmontItaly

Fratelli GiacosaBarbaresco

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Manera, Rizzi Riserva, Barbaresco, Treiso, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

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Generously focused on fruit, with ripe cherry under almost-spirity red fruits. The tannins are silky and light, enjoyable, with refreshing acidity. Lacks volume and frame....

2018

PiedmontItaly

ManeraBarbaresco

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Socré, Roncaglie Riserva, Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy, 2018

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Pale ruby in the glass, it seems to be slightly reductive at first, then opens up to dried cherry, cola, violet and rose aromas. ...

2018

PiedmontItaly

SocréBarbaresco

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Aldo Fiordelli
Decanter Magazine, Italian Expert and DWWA Judge

Aldo Fiordelli is an Italian wine critic, journalist and wine writer.  He has published four books about food, wine and art and is a regular Decanter contributor.

In Italy he is an editorial board member of L’Espresso restaurant and wine guide (one of Italy’s most prominent) since 2004.  He also writes for Corriere della sera in Florence, as well as Civiltà del Bere (Italy’s oldest Italian wine magazine).

A certified sommelier since 2003, he is currently a 2nd stage student at the Institute of the Masters of Wine.

In 2017 he was named Chevalier de l’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne.

Aldo joined DWWA for the first time as a judge in 2019.