Best Margaux 2020 wines tasted en primeur
Jane Anson presents an overview of the 2020 vintage in Margaux revealing her highest-scoring wines and top-value picks.
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Margaux 2020
Average yield: 36hl/ha
Individual yields varied widely:
- 45hl/ha at Château Cantemerle,
- 31hl/ha at Château Malsescot St Exupery
- 16hl/ha at Château La Gurgue,
- 47hl/ha at Château Dauzac,
- 36hl/ha at Château Giscours.
What you find
Wines are tannic but flavour-packed, very classic – not as exuberant as 2018 or 2019 but structured and intense.
Philippe Bascaules at Château Margaux recorded less dehyrdration in the grapes in 2020 compared to 2018; so high alcohols were avoided, and a more classic balance is found in the wines.
Margaux 2020 vintage characteristics
Flowering went moderately well in Margaux according to consultant Eric Boissenot, but there was some difficulties during fruit set that contributed to low yields, as well as the hot dry summer.
A big storm in mid-August affected some areas with over 100mm of rain falling in three days. In September rainfall was similar across Margaux, Pauillac and St-Julien – around 65mm on average, falling mainly in the second half, before becoming more abundant in early October.
Patrice de Bortoli at Château Moutte-Blanc pointed out the contrast in the grape varieties, with the early-ripening Merlot being picked with ‘extraordinary levels of potential alcohol, harvested in the heat, then Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot rebalanced by the rain and cooler temperatures’.
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What’s new
You have a few estate changes here – no more Château Pontac Lynch, as all the vines have now been included in Château d’Issan, and no more Châteaux Charmant or La Galiane, as again the vines have been sold off, this time to Château Cantenac Brown.
There are new owners at Château du Tertre (the Helfrich family), and at Tour de Mons (Nathalie Perrodo, as at Marquis d’Alesme).
Over at Château Margaux, 2020 is the 100th anniversary of the white wine bottled under the name Pavillon Blanc (although there has been a white wine here for 300 years).
The greening of AOC Margaux also continues. Between 2016 and 2019, 30 winegrowing properties in the Margaux appellation were involved in actions to encourage biodiversity, protecting soil from erosion and providing refuges and food sources for insects and small animals. These included 15ha set aside for late mowing, 42ha of fallow plots, 5ha of wildflower meadows and 10km of hedges.
Top picks:
- Château Margaux,
- Château d’Issan,
- Château Palmer.
Value picks:
See the top-scoring Margaux 2020 en primeur wines
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Château Margaux, Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Cool and confident, an effortless Margaux that’s a clear success in 2020. Vivid colour in the glass with a delicately perfumed nose. Smooth and graceful...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château MargauxMargaux
Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

An irresistible wine from Palmer in 2020, sumptuous and voluptuous, open and appealing yet with all the elements so very carefully set in their place....
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château PalmerMargaux
Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Juicy and lively fragrance on the nose – so perfumed and alluring. Delicate and pure on the palate, crystalline yet with such intensity. A rush...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Rauzan-SéglaMargaux
Château d'Issan, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Wonderfully intense on the nose, so ripe and concentrated with some toasted oak aromas. Supple and vibrant on the palate, the fruit is clean and...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château d'IssanMargaux
Château Giscours, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Wonderful aromatic expression, fragrant with wild flowers and dark bramble fruits as well as sandalwood. Rich and round on the palate, really so juicy and...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château GiscoursMargaux
Château Durfort-Vivens, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Blueberries, plums, black cherries - dark bramble fruits with herbal, medicinal nuances on the nose. Ripe and juicy, this is calm and supremely controlled on...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Durfort-VivensMargaux
Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Heady and expressive on the nose, seductive tones of ripe fruit and perfumed flowers. Gorgeous intensity on the palate, rich, round and ripe - gently...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Brane-CantenacMargaux
Château Marquis d'Alesme, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Juicy and upfront, this is deep and rich with a dominant aspect of liquorice, salty stones, dark chocolate and cola, giving this a bit of...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Marquis d'AlesmeMargaux
Château Margaux, Pavillon Rouge, Margaux, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Liquorice and aniseed tinged blackcurrants on the nose, very medicinal, deep, heady, perfumed too but softly scented, more savoury and spiced. Smooth and supple, fully...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château MargauxMargaux
Château Ferrière, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Seductive fragrance on the nose, perfumed, clean and pure. Rich yet direct too, I like the sleekness with clarity, energy and a vibrancy to the...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château FerrièreMargaux
Château Cantenac Brown, Margaux, 3ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Juicy, succulent and supple, this has lovely bright energy and impact straight away. Tannins are on the chalky mineral side, mouthcoating, but with a salty...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Cantenac BrownMargaux
Château Marquis de Terme, Margaux, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Roses and patchouli aromas on the nose. Svelte and charming on the palate, sumptuous but restrained and delicate. Excellent sculpting and persistence with real floraity...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Marquis de TermeMargaux
Château Prieuré-Lichine, Margaux, 4ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020
Plenty of juicy dripping autumnal fruit, cassis and blueberry with a crack of black pepper and a good lick of saline freshness on the finish...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château Prieuré-LichineMargaux
Château Dauzac, Margaux, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Juicy and upfront, this has nice energy and life with good acidity and clear texture. Nicely framed with a toasty touch balanced by a hint...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château DauzacMargaux
Château du Tertre, Margaux, 5ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Spicy on the nose, with cinnamon, exotic spices, paprika and clove more than fruit at the moment. The palate is more lightly framed than some...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château du TertreMargaux
Château Labégorce, Margaux, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Beautiful, perfumed blackcurrants on the nose, smells lovely. Juicy and supple, this has a nice roundness and a fleshy texture in the glass while still...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château LabégorceMargaux
Château Siran, Margaux, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Ripe and rich black fruits on the nose, smells heady and fully aromatic in a fruit-forward way, with blackcurrants, berries and sweet Ribena edges. Juicy...
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château SiranMargaux
Château Palmer, Alter Ego, Margaux, Bordeaux, France, 2020

Devilishly charming on the nose, deep and seductive, expressive and richly scented. Juicy and succulent but with a richness in terms of texture and depth....
2020
BordeauxFrance
Château PalmerMargaux
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
