Beyond Assyrtiko: Alternative Greek whites

From hazy tourist memories of bad retsina served in terrible glasses in tavernas, to the sensational modern-day Assyrtikos of Santorini island, Greek wine has come a long way. This is particularly felt in the country’s whites, which highlight freshness and structure, with moderate alcohol levels that rarely exceed 13.5%. There’s also an unexpected common thread – a saline aftertaste. Assyrtiko doesn’t have a monopoly on this, as a handful of other exciting white varieties have come to the fore.

Savatiano and pink-skinned Roditis account for one third of the 65,000ha total Greek vineyard. These varieties, traditionally associated with retsina, are being reinvented by passionate producers. Savatiano, which has its home in Attica, shows moderately intense aromas of apples, white peach and melon. It ages well, developing a honeyed, toasty character, almost like a Hunter Valley Semillon. Dry-farmed old bush vines tame its vigour, adding substance and layers of complexity. The unsung and often neutral Roditis, when planted in high-altitude sites such as Aigialeia in the Peloponnese, produces breath-taking wines with intense minerality. Both varieties react well to skin contact, which is becoming more and more common.

Mainland Greece has two more key aromatic varieties. Malagousia was rescued from extinction in the late 1960s and quickly won the hearts of most producers. It covers 520ha and produces single-varietal wines or softens the edges of Assyrtiko in blends. Aromas include flowers and herbs in cooler sites, followed by a round palate with soft acidity. It delivers its best in mountainous areas.

Compared to Assyrtiko, it offers the more approachable side of Greek whites; however, the best examples are worth cellaring for up to five years. Moschofilero, another pink-skinned variety planted mainly in Mantinia in the Peloponnese, could have been a big hit with its mix of Muscat aromas, high acidity and friendly prices, but it was a victim of its own success – as producers increased yields to meet rising demand, so overall quality suffered.

Fortunately, it’s making a comeback with rosé-style wines, some with lees ageing and smart oaking. The Greek islands showcase numerous varieties. Robola excels in Cephalonia, giving elegant, medium-bodied wines with lemon, grapefruit and fennel aromas, plus fresh acidity. Producers are experimenting with prolonged lees ageing, and some single-vineyard wines have been released. Vidiano is the superstar in Crete, delivering a dense core of apricot over sea-breeze minerality. Wines are fleshy and vibrant, with a satiny texture – the Greek Condrieu, as it works well with oak.

Other styles include orange and traditional-method sparkling wines. The list would not be complete without Aidani. A partner for Assyrtiko, it’s increasingly used on its own, delivering expressive wines with jasmine, peach, kumquat and tropical fruit. It’s made in two main styles: a rather Alsatian version and a more mineral one.

Yiannis Karakasis MW’s top 18 alternative Greek whites