Bordeaux 2019 MW tasting: 20 top-scoring wines

The Institute of the Masters of Wine (IMW) held its annual Bordeaux tasting at Vintners’ Hall in October 2023. The IMW historically looks at around 100 wines four years after the vintage, ranging from leading red Bordeaux through to dry whites and a selection of Sauternes and Barsac wines. As the focus was the much celebrated 2019 vintage, expectations were high.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Andy Howard MW’s top pick of Bordeaux 2019

The tasting confirmed that 2019 is a brilliant vintage full of top-quality wines, and one which exceeds anything in the previous decade, with the probable exceptions of 2010 and 2016.

Although the vintage bears similarities to the ‘solar,’ dry, years of 2018, 2020 and 2022, there were significant (and beneficial) differences between 2019 and the other three years.

Like 2018, this was a vintage shaped by a hot and dry growing season. But 2019 benefited from rain which was limited in quantity but came at a fortuitous time. As a result, the firm, leathery and drying quality of the tannins seen in 2018 does not seem to have been replicated in the majority of 2019s.

2020 had similar weather during the growing season but localised thunderstorms during harvest affected certain appellations, with some Cabernet Sauvignon struggling for full ripeness. In 2019, fine weather prevailed up until 20 September and the rain, when it came, fell on dry ground enabling both Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc to ripen fully. The grapes were also generally free from rot meaning less sorting during the harvest.

2022 was a remarkable year given the extreme lack of rain and high temperatures, yet there were many profound Merlot dominant wines produced. In 2019, there seem to be more great wines on the left bank than the right, with high alcohols more of an issue in St-Emilion than the Médoc.

The 2019s are full bodied, generous and show excellent purity of fruit. Tannins are powerful – in some cases dry and over-extracted – but the general feeling in the mouth is one of ripeness balanced with freshness and appealing acidity. Although the top wines have a very long future, some are deceptively open and accessible already.

2019 will also be remembered for the fact that the wines were launched on the market as the world was firmly in the grip of the pandemic. By necessity, the traditional en-primeur campaign was replaced by alternative ways of getting young wines tasted by critics, négociants and merchants.

Bordeaux producers appreciated the exceptional circumstances at the time and some significant reductions were made to launch prices, which kick-started the campaign. Those who were in a position to purchase, and were quick off the mark, were able to buy a top-quality vintage at prices much lower than one would have expected in more ‘normal’ circumstances.

Unsurprisingly, the market has certainly caught up, but early buyers are likely to have done very well. The wines have excellent ageability but should also deliver a healthy profit for those looking to trade.

Although highly rated by other critics, there were a few more disappointing wines than expected at the tasting. Having said that, the majority exceeded their 2018 equivalents. A few wines had over-extracted tannins (green in a couple of cases) and the hefty alcohol levels sometimes led to a lack of balance. The St-Emilion wines tasted averaged 14.5% alcohol, compared to an average of 14% for St-Estèphe and Pauillac, and were a full degree higher than St-Julien and Margaux.

St-Estèphe and Pauillac delivered some great wines at different levels across the Cru Classé tiers. Margaux was a little more variable in terms of alcohol strength, oak usage and quality of tannins, but the best wines are of a very high standard.

The first growths were all great with 30-40 years life ahead. Unfortunately, there were some notable absentees from the list of wines submitted with châteaux; Mouton-Rothschild, Léoville-Las Cases, Ducru-Beaucaillou, Palmer, Pontet-Canet, Vieux-Château Certan and Lafleur missing.

The dry whites are consistent but lack some of the verve and excitement of 2017. Sauternes and Barsac are variable – although the vintage promised a lot in late-September, very heavy rain in mid-October brought the harvest to a rapid end. The best producers have still managed to make some delicious wines with weight, acidity and plenty of noble rot – Climens being a standout (as usual).

See Andy’s top 20 Bordeaux 2019 wines