Brunello Riserva 2013: ‘A delectable study of terroir’

Alongside the Brunello 2014s, the 2013 Riservas were trotted out after their required additional year of ageing, as well as some late releases from some producers (and some re-releases for 2019 in the case of Biondi-Santi).

2013 was a rather cool year until August, with rain scattered throughout, producing mixed results among the regular Brunellos. And based on the noticeable absence of producers at this year’s tasting, opinions were clearly divided as to whether or not the vintage merited a Riserva.

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Mixed opinions

‘It didn’t offer the concentration and performance to guarantee our clients a step up from the Brunello,’ argues Francesco Buffi at Azienda Baricci. ‘We preferred to make a great Brunello instead of compromising it for a Riserva.’

But others were convinced of the opposite: ‘It’s really a year that made sense to make a Riserva,’ declares Francesco Ripaccioli of Canalicchio di Sopra, claiming that the vintage offered a transparency of terroir. ‘We are able to understand which zone the grapes come from, which is the great value of Montalcino.’ Significantly, 2013 also marks the first ever Madonna delle Grazie Riserva from Il Marroneto.

Both judgements were manifest in the wines. There are indeed some where I question the choice of making a Riserva in 2013, which are ready to drink without much life ahead. Others are not any better than their annata counterpart, and in some cases the latter was more successful.

On the other hand, an impressive number of 2013 Riservas are still brooding or, if already approachable, promise at least 12 to 15 years of drinking pleasure.

Character of site

Indeed, they can convey not just the character of Brunello but the specific sites from where they hail. For example, Canalicchio di Sopra’s Riserva is a laser-sharp expression of Montosoli, while Lisini’s Ugolaia speaks beautifully of Sesta.

The best thing about the top wines is the class and finesse they demonstrate rather than sheer power and concentration. The finest of the 2013 Riservas live up to their classification and provide a delectable study of terroir and, moreover, they are the equal of wines from Montalcino’s greatest vintages.

Michaela’s top Brunello Riserva 2013 wines to buy:

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