The difficult 2024 vintage in Chablis was ‘historically problematic,’ according to winemaker Laurent Pinson.
The press release of the BIVB, the region’s normally up-beat trade commission, admits: ‘Floods, excess rains, frost, hail…nothing saved the vines’.
Romain Chevrolat, winemaker at Domaine Laroche, describes the vintage as ‘old school’.
Guillaume Michaut at Domaine 47°N 3°E agrees: ‘This is a vintage our grandfathers could have made’.
Although overall quality is decidedly mixed, with little consistency between grand and premier cru to village level, lovers of vibrant, acid- and mineral-driven wines will find wines to age, since the best 2024 Chablis will improve for years to come with cellaring.
Charles’s favourite wines from Chablis 2024 listed below
Chablis 2024 vintage rating: 3.5/5
A catastrophically small harvest with problems at every turn, 2024 nonetheless produced some vibrant, ageworthy examples in the hands of the best producers. Cool, rainy conditions produced wines that are light in alcohol and body. Yet, the best wines, sustained by dynamic acidity and classic Chablis minerality, will delight fans of the Chablis of former times.
Wine of the vintage: Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
Top Petit Chablis: Domaine 47°N 3°E, Petit Chablis
Top Chablis: Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Chablis
Top Chablis 1er Cru: Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent
Top Chablis Grand Cru: Domaine François Raveneau, Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
Disaster strikes early
The catastrophically poor weather of 2024 began the winter before the growing season.
According to the cooperative La Chablisienne, the five months before budbreak from 15 October 2023 saw 50% more rain than usual (531mm versus the average 335mm).
Warm temperatures in March led to early budbreak, exposing the vines to damage from the frost that arrived between 18-25 April.
The vines sustained more significant damage, however, in the massive hailstorm that ravaged the region on 1 May, destroying or severely damaging more than one-third of Chablis’ vineyards.
Heavy rain continued through May and June, accompanied by an abrupt drop in temperature that interrupted flowering.
This interruption drew the process out to more than three weeks, causing coulure and devastating the yield.
The difficult flowering was capped by a second significant hailstorm on 29 June.
The mildew continued its invasion throughout July as the rain continued, and the month finished with another hailstorm on 31 July.
The weather was warm and dry in the first half of August, but rain reappeared in the second half of the month and periodically during the harvest.
A harvest you never want to see
Although some growers picked earlier to capitalise on the beneficent warmth of August, most waited until the middle of the third week of September.
Ripening was so uneven that the larger producers took two to three weeks to finish the task.
In the end, alcohol levels were low and acidity levels were moderate to high.
Yields varied by producer, but most reported losses of between 60% and 90% of a normal crop.
It is likely the case that, where more generous yields were reported, winemakers benefited from legally blending up to 15% of wine from the abundant 2023 vintage, as allowed under the VCI system (Volume Complémentaire Individuel).
Ten best-value wines of 2024
Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Chablis
Domaine Bessin-Tremblay, Chablis Vieilles Vignes
Domaine Besson, Chablis
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis
Domaine de l’Enclos, Chablis
Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis Domaine
Famille Gueguen, Petit Chablis
La Chablisienne, Chablis 1er cru La Grande Cuvée
Domaine 47°N 3°E, Petit Chablis
Domaine Laurent Tribut, Chablis
A diversity of problems
Although the effects of the weather were severe for everyone, various sectors were afflicted by different problems.
The hail devastated primarily the northern part of Chablis, particularly the premier cru Fourchaume on the right bank of the Serein and the area surrounding the village of La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne.
In contrast, the grand cru slopes immediately south of La Chapelle were less affected by hail but suffered more from mildew.
The same is true for the villages across the Serein on the left bank: less hail damage in the premier cru climats of Vaillons and Montmains, but more losses from mildew.
Isabelle Raveneau, of Domaine François Raveneau, describes the varied nature of the destruction: ‘We began to pick on 23 September and finished in a bit over five days. In some parcels, we were able to harvest less than 10hl/ha, and in Montmains, we did not harvest at all.
‘In Vaillons, the harvest was very small, but in Montée de Tonnerre, we managed 50% of a normal crop, and approximately one-third in Petit Chablis. The few grapes that were left were in a correct state of health, because the warm weather dried them before the harvest.
She concludes: ‘The impact on us was more due to the frost and hail than to the mildew. The sectors that were least affected included Les Forets and Montée de Tonnerre.’
Even within the contiguous seven climats on the grand cru slope, there was significant variation.
Vincent Dauvissat did not harvest any grapes in his Les Clos vineyard, but his vines in Les Preuses, less affected by mildew, yielded one of the delights of the vintage.
Didier Séguier from Domaine William Fèvre, which also has vines in Les Clos, says: ‘Normally we employ 160 pickers for 9-10 days of picking. In 2024, we hired 210 pickers for 3.5 days. We were only able to harvest 4hl/ha in Les Clos.’
However, he adapted his methods to the vintage and ultimately he notes: ‘In terms of quality, I am more or less in the camp of the optimists for this vintage.’
Producers to know
Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret
Château de Béru
Domaine de l’Enclos
Domaine Laurent Tribut
Domaine 47°N 3°E
Domaine Alain et Cyril Gautheron
Domaine Bessin-Tremblay
Domaine Les Pétioles
Domaine Goisot (Saint Bris)
Domaine Colinot (Irancy)
Five tips before you buy 2024 Chablis
Chablis 2024 is a vintage that is worth buying for fans of the traditional style of taut, mineral-inflected Chablis.
Interested collectors should act quickly since quantities will be limited, but the top wines will age for years to come.
If money is no object, seek out Les Clos from Raveneau or Les Preuses from Dauvissat, both among the best wines of the vintage.
The 2024s will have more structure and punch than the wines from 2023. They are less substantial than those from 2022 but there is more minerality, and the wines will be more complete and well-rounded than those from 2021.
With a bit of luck, this is an opportunity to restock the delicious twin of the 2014 vintage which is just coming into maturity now.
Click here to see all notes on Chablis 2024
Chablis: Know your vintages
2023: A large harvest with a hot, sunny conclusion. The growing season was up and down, with abundant rain and cool temperatures, but the success of the year was decided by the hot, dry conditions that in the end delivered healthy grapes with moderate alcohol but slightly lower acidity. 4/5
2022: In retrospect, the warm, sunny conditions of 2022 edge out those of 2023. This is odd because August was too hot, causing the vines to shut down and preserve more acidity than 2023. This slightly superior freshness means the wines of 2022 will have a seductive balance and might well age better. 4.5/5
2021: The low yields and the difficult growing conditions were a constant challenge for growers. In the end, however, the lower yields and resulting concentration meant the top wines were thrillingly crisp, concentrated and powerful and will undoubtedly enjoy a long life in the cellar. 4/5
2020: A warm, easy year, the antithesis of the year that followed: the vines had everything – heat, sunshine, enough rain. The result is an approachable vintage with easy, moreish fruit aromas that will drink well young but may drop off sooner than the wines from 2019. 4/5
2019: Several heatwaves during this sunny year meant many initially felt that the wines lacked freshness. But time has shown that the wines’ intensity means they should hold well and have the structure to support their weight. 4.5/5
2018: A large harvest in a hot year produced wines with lots of body and warmth, but sometimes without the structure for long ageing. A very rewarding vintage to drink now, but few wines will survive decades in the cellar. 3/5
Charles’s top picks from Chablis 2024
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Domaine Eleni & Edouard Vocoret, Chablis, Valmur Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024
Tasting this makes me think that 2024 doesn’t seem like an inferior vintage. This expressive wine has hints of lime peel, kumquat and, what Edouard describes as ‘reduction Chablisienne', an almost petrol-like minerality that comes from the grey-blue Kimmeridgian marl. The grapes are from 0.28ha on the sunny 'adroit' side of Valmur. This will open in five years and drink for at least 20 years beyond that; a standout for the vintage.
2024
Domaine Eleni & Edouard VocoretChablis
Domaine François Raveneau, Chablis, Les Clos Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024
Impressive, this is a superb example of a success from a vineyard where many struggled in 2024. The nose offers lemon peel and passion fruit with hints of oyster shell, verbena and spice. The texture has density of extract, balanced with lively acidity, making it a classic of the vintage. Isabelle Raveneau spoke about the domaine's approach in 2024, the 'rule of the three Ps: patience, patience, patience'. They have managed to craft a wine from very harsh conditions that will endure.
2024
Domaine François RaveneauChablis
Samuel Billaud, Chablis, Vaudésir Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024
Smashingly good, with unparalleled equilibrium and an exotic nose that blends notes of passion fruit, citrus peel and pear with a mineral edge, a hint of spice and a texture that is complex and dynamic. The grapes come from two parcels, one on the sunny 'adroit' side and one on the cooler 'envers' side. Lingers moreishly on the palate without any sense of heaviness – very long, yet very light; a marvel.
2024
Samuel BillaudChablis
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis, Les Preuses Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024
Superb, the nose boasts concentrated aromas of gooseberry, grapefruit and kumquat, adorned with hints of oyster shell and spice. There is a vibrant balance with enough extract to drive the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes are from the 0.8ha contiguous parcel of Les Preuses, planted in 1970, on the stony soils at the edge of La Moutonne and Vaudésir. Although conditions were challenging, this site was less affected by mildew and delivered a wine with excellent depth of flavour and impressive length. Gets my vote as the wine of the vintage.
2024
Domaine Vincent DauvissatChablis
Domaine William Fèvre, Côte Bouguerots, Chablis, Bougros Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024
This is always a special bottling from William Fèvre. In 2024 it is superb, with a sunny, bright lemon peel and nectarine fruit character, hints of saline minerality and fresh white flowers. The texture is elegantly ripe but exquisitely balanced and marvellously long on the palate. The grapes are from the thin soils of the steep edge of the Bougros climat with the river at the base. Fèvre owns 2ha here, making it the largest owner. Tragically, only four barrels were produced from this expanse in 2024.
2024
Domaine William FèvreChablis
Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis, Les Clos Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024
William Fèvre produced a compelling example of Les Clos in 2024 with great expense and effort, but the results are delicious, with fruit aromas of gooseberry, greengage plum and grapefruit peel, underscored by an expressive minerality. The texture has tension and snap, but there is enough density here to balance 2024's racy acidity perfectly. The grapes are from more than 4ha of old vines planted in the 1940s at the top of the climat on marl soils. After sorting, the plots produced only 4 hl/ha.
2024
Domaine William FèvreChablis
Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis, 1er Cru Vaulorent, Burgundy, France, 2024
Rich and dense, remarkable mineral freshness on the nose with lemon peel and nectarine fruit, along with notes of oyster shell and chalk. The texture is creamy and the finish is long. The grapes are from Kimmeridgian marl soils on plots just next to the grand cru slope. Although there are 3.6ha over eight parcels, the yield in Vaulorent was so low that Didier Séguir remarked: ‘The hardest thing will be finding any.'
2024
Domaine William FèvreChablis
Château de Béru, l’Orangerie, Chablis, Burgundy, France, 2024
The most powerful and concentrated cuvée from Château de Béru, boasting an intensely aromatic nose that combines citrus and tropical flavours with a pronounced flinty minerality, spice and smoke. Fantastic presence on the palate, with abundant concentration but enough acidity to ensure a lively finish. The grapes are from a half-hectare clos at the top of the slope in Béru, planted in clay soils over Kimmeridgian limestone. Fermented and aged in casks for two years before bottling.
2024
Château de BéruChablis
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Chablis, Burgundy, France, 2024
Stylish, with a bit of reduction and notes of lemon peel, green apple and pear, along with a suggestion of acacia blossoms and honey. The clean, pure fruit continues on the palate, where there is more density and weight than many. This will drink well on release and continue to improve with mid-term cellaring.
2024
Jean-Paul & Benoît DroinChablis
Domaine Bessin-Tremblay, Chablis, Valmur Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2024
If somewhat reserved on the initial attack, the power of the cuvée begins to show on the palate, with ripe grapefruit and quince complemented by hawthorn flowers and spice. This is a model of finesse and sophistication. Antoine Bessin remarked that although the Fourchaume would be more powerful initially, the Valmur would take the lead in five or six years. Quantities were so tiny in 2024 that all the wine was matured in casks, none of them new.
2024
Domaine Bessin-TremblayChablis
Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Chablis, 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, Burgundy, France, 2024
Delightful, with a creamy, rich texture and notes of ripe apricot and quince, edged with flinty mineral notes; the grapes are from a plot right next to Raveneau. If this lacks some of the power of traditional Montée de Tonnerre, it is guaranteed to please those looking for a wine more focused on elegance than power. This will open up in three to five years and improve for at least a decade after that.
2024
Domaine Moreau-NaudetChablis
Jean-Hugues & Guilhem Goisot, Mont Morin, Saint-Bris, Burgundy, France, 2024
Exotic aromas of passion fruit, kumquat and peach, accented with hints of freshly-mown hay and beeswax, enchant those lucky enough to find a bottle of this delicious expression of Sauvignon. It is a blend of mostly Sauvignon Blanc co-planted with a bit of Sauvignon Gris on steep white clay slopes leading down to the Yonne river, giving this site a warm microclimate that ripens grapes to perfection. Perfect for drinking on release but can easily sustain at least mid-term ageing.
2024
Jean-Hugues & Guilhem GoisotSaint-Bris
Domaine 47°N 3°E, Chablis, Petit Chablis, Burgundy, France, 2024
Boasts an expressive green apple and acacia flower aroma with a hint of spice. The texture is elegant, fine and racy, but there is enough depth here to interest lovers of the 2024 vintage. The grapes are blended over 3ha of the appellation and are normally fermented and aged in tank, although the 2024 was done in barrel due to a lack of enough grapes to fill the tank. The cask aromas are apparent at this stage but will integrate with time.
2024
Domaine 47°N 3°EChablis