Exclusive Andy Beckstoffer interview: Looking to Lake County

With nearly 1,600 hectares under vine in Napa Valley, Mendocino County and Lake County, Beckstoffer has been dubbed ‘Napa’s most powerful grape grower’ by the Wall Street Journal. Beckstoffer Vineyards weighs in as California’s single largest private grower.

Laser-focused on growing premium California Cabernet Sauvignon block by block, Andy Beckstoffer insists that ‘great California Cabernet grows north of the San Francisco Bay’. Backing this assertion with an ambitious vision, Beckstoffer Vineyards currently cultivates 400 hectares in Napa Valley, 485ha in Mendocino, and more recently, 650ha in Lake County.

 ‘Lake County is the next place for premium California Cabernet’ – Andy Beckstoffer

Arriving in Napa

A transplant from Richmond, Virginia, Beckstoffer attended Virginia Tech on a football scholarship, graduated with an engineering degree, and earned an MBA from Dartmouth. Arriving with an analytical mind and bold business acumen, Beckstoffer landed in California and joined the premium wine division for Heublein.

This company bought the historic estates of Inglenook and Beaulieu Vineyard in the late 1960s. ‘We bought two of the top wineries in Napa and didn’t have the experience or know-how to run them well,’ Beckstoffer shares, ‘thankfully, we’ve learned a lot since then.’

Separately, Beckstoffer set up a farming company for Heublin in 1970. Three years later, he purchased the farming company and renamed it Beckstoffer Vineyards. With no interest in making wine personally, Beckstoffer believed Napa’s farmers underestimated the value of their land and fruit.

To give growers a voice in the valley, he founded the Napa Valley Grape Growers Association in 1975. An organisation which remains strong and vibrant today with a staunch focus on environmental stewardship and sharing viticultural best practices.

The rise of Heritage Vineyards – a tale of Bordeaux vs Burgundy

In the early 1980s, many Napa Valley growers were selling wine in a ‘Bordeaux’ model. Meaning wines were built on blends, and while consistent, most were indistinct. With a daring combination of vision and nerve, Beckstoffer offered a different approach, leaning into a decidedly ‘Burgundian’ model with a firm emphasis on terroir and single-vineyard expression.

‘For decades, everyone was convinced that it was the winemaker that was the secret to great wine over time. We believed it was the ground,’ says Beckstoffer. Consequently, he started scouting for vineyards that had been producing remarkable wines for the past 100-150 years.

‘It was the old timers around here that knew which vineyards were producing great wine reliably over decades,’ Beckstoffer confessed.

Realising that showcasing individual terroir would amplify the region’s distinct qualities, he began buying vineyards with extensive track records of producing top-notch wine. Beckstoffer has since purchased six historic vineyards dating back to the 1800s, with a stellar reputation for delivering exceptional wine over the long haul.

Las Piedras (meaning ‘little pebbles,’ a nod to the gravelly soil) was the first Heritage Vineyard purchased in 1983. The legendary Beckstoffer To Kalon Heritage Vineyard (36ha / 89 acres) was acquired from the historic Beaulieu Vineyards in 1994.

The remaining four Heritage Vineyards include Dr. Crane, Bourn, George III, and Missouri Hopper. These treasured vineyards deliver a synergistic combination of soil and climate, culminating in decades of extraordinary Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.

Significantly, the Heritage Vineyards are protected by both a conservation easement to restrict development and a family trust that prevents the selling or development of the vineyards into perpetuity. A bold move that is not without controversy.

Napa’s top Cabernets built on Beckstoffer Heritage Vineyards

Today, well over 100 premium Napa Valley Cabernets are designated as Beckstoffer ‘Heritage Vineyard’ labels. They are contractually required to maintain at least 95% of the fruit from the designated vineyard (and carry the Beckstoffer vineyard name on the label). Unsurprisingly, Beckstoffer fruit finds firm footing in many of Napa Valley’s heavy hitters: Stag’s Leap, Shrader Cellars, Paul Hobbs, Cliff Lede, B Cellars, Taub Family Vineyards and many more.

In fact, Decanter’s Napa Cabernet 2019 Vintage Report highlights 23 top-scoring wines built on Beckstoffer Heritage Vineyard grapes, with two perfect 100-point wines, AXR and Lithology, showcasing Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.

Out of 221 wines rated in the report, four of the top ten wines came from the Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard. Thanks to Beckstoffer Vineyard’s meticulous management, this legacy vineyard shines bright as Napa Valley’s crown jewel and enthusiastically represents the crème de la crème of American terroir.

 ‘Vintage 2023 could become the vintage of the millennium’ – Andy Beckstoffer

Beckstoffer brings a Burgundian pricing model to Napa

Beckstoffer Vineyards established a Burgundian-based pricing structure that tangibly ties the price of grapes to the wine’s retail price, knowing that grapes ultimately determine the wine. In the case of a $250 bottle of ultra-premium Cabernet from the Heritage Vineyards, the cost of the fruit would be roughly 150 times the bottle price, or $37,500 a ton. By comparison, the average 2022 per ton price for Napa Valley Cabernet was just under $9,000.

A steep price point for sure, but one many winemakers are willing to pay for the unsurpassed reputation, quality, and consistency of the grapes and, ultimately, the outstanding wines that bear the Beckstoffer name.

Lake County – up-and-coming Cabernet country

It’s not just Napa Valley that garners Beckstoffer’s relentless attention, but also the cool-climate grape-growing region of Mendocino County and, more recently, the consistent volcanic soils of Lake County’s Red Hills AVA a mere 48km north of Calistoga.

‘Vineyards and wine grapes don’t recognise California county boundaries,’ says Beckstoffer, ‘the Red Hills just north of Napa are well-situated to grow ultra-premium Cabernet.’ Andy goes on to note the parallels between Napa Valley in the 1970s and the Red Hills today and how recognising the potential for growing high-quality grapes in a given soil is mission-critical to realising that potential in the ground and in the bottle.

The Red Hills AVA is tucked into the northern Mayacamas Mountains and the southwest edge of Clear Lake. Looming overhead is Mount Konocti, offering textbook Cabernet soil structure and dozens of volcanic hills radiating out with elevations ranging from 425 to 1,125 metres.

Beckstoffer sees an incredible opportunity in Lake County’s Red Hills for growing premium Cabernet Sauvignon.

Lake County Fact Box

Total planted vineyard hectares: 4,576 hectares

(Comparison: Mendocino 6,880, Napa 18,210, Sonoma 24,280)

Planted Varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc make up more than two-thirds of the total

plantings in Lake County. Cabernet Sauvignon at 2,290 hectares (50% of planted total) and Sauvignon Blanc at 975 hectares (21% of planted total).

Other key varieties include Petite Sirah, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, and Merlot.

70% of vineyard land is certified as sustainable

20% of vineyard land is certified organic

180 different grape growers: Each year, approximately 70% of the Lake County crop is purchased by winery buyers in

Napa, Sonoma, and other parts of California.

AVAs within Lake County:  There are 8 AVAs within Lake County, the oldest, Guenoc Valley was established in 1981, the newest Long Valley-Lake County was established in 2023. The most famous, Red Hills Lake County AVA, was established in 2004.

Source: Lake County Winegrape Commission

A confluence of conditions

He began intuitively investing in Red Hills vineyard land in 1996 and believes ‘the Red Hills of Lake County is the most promising up and coming region in the New World for growing premium Cabernet.’ Why? First, there is still land available to purchase and grow grapes on. Second, it boils down to climate, dirt and elevation.

The Mediterranean climate and well-drained, volcanic soils combine with sun and wind to essentially do the job of fungicides and pesticides, which ultimately allows Beckstoffer to ‘farm with soft hands’ intervening in the vineyard as little as possible. ‘We farm Lake County exactly the same as Napa with 40-54 hectolitres per hectare in the sweet spots and 67-81 hectolitres per hectare in other areas,’ says Beckstoffer.

The celebrated result is bright, expressive fruit that is incredibly consistent and uniform with complexity and balance. Nearly 35% of Beckstoffer’s Lake County fruit goes directly into Red Hills AVA wines, with the remaining 65% serving as bulk wine being sold to Gallo, Treasury, Heitz, Gott, Kendall Jackson and others.

Building a reputation

In terms of pricing, the same structure of tethering the grape prices to the wine’s bottle price still stands in Beckstoffer Vineyard’s Lake County holdings. Still, Andy readily admits, ‘grapes function more as a commodity in Lake County than Napa with the average Cabernet price per ton sitting around $2,000.’

He goes on to state, ‘We’ve proven that we’ve got the Cabernet grape quality in Lake County. Now we’ve got to build the reputation and spread the word.’ In an effort to do both, Beckstoffer is encouraging well-known producers building their wines on Red Hills fruit to highlight the AVA on labels.

As an influential pioneer in Lake County for the last 27 years, Beckstoffer Vineyards has invested heavily in vineyard growth and expansion when few others had the foresight. As the premium Cabernet Sauvignon sector continues to grow, where are you going to get that supply? Andy contends ‘the only available place left for premium Cabernet is the Red Hills of Lake County.’

Today, Andy sees the fruition and reward of his trailblazing investment through taking risks and buying vineyards. He maintains a contagious enthusiasm about the incredible grape quality coming out of this up-and-coming neighbour just north of Napa.

The Beckstoffer effect

‘Andy Beckstoffer is a visionary in the wine industry, says Debra Sommerfield, president of the Lake County Winegrape Commission. ‘When he purchased property in the

Red Hills of Lake County, the industry definitely took notice. Andy understood the viticultural potential of the region due to its soils, elevation, and climate. Over the years, winemakers from across the North Coast and beyond have been intrigued by the Beckstoffer holdings and, in turn, have been impressed by the high calibre of the fruit.’

‘Andy’s commitment to the region has definitely helped shine a light on the Red Hills in particular and also on Lake County as a whole. His investment has inferred an innate credibility, which has inspired others to make investments as well. That credibility, combined with the region’s laser focus on farming and fruit quality, has really paid off. In recent years, fruit from Lake County has garnered some of the highest prices in California, often placing third behind Napa and Sonoma.

An enduring legacy

Andy Beckstoffer’s fingerprints are all over the Napa Valley as he has maintained a dynamic decades-long stewardship of Napa Valley’s oldest, most distinguished vineyards. As a new chapter emerges in the premium Cabernet Sauvignon sector with the advent of Lake County’s Red Hills AVA, Andy continues to lead from behind the scenes as an influential grower with both foresight and passion. At 80 years old, Andy Beckstoffer remains a feisty, energetic, visionary force at the helm of the family-owned Beckstoffer Vineyards with the same goal he started with: ‘to find the best land to grow the best grapes possible.’

Beckstoffer Timeline

1966: Andy joined Heublein, Inc and advises entry into the super-premium wine segment. He is instrumental in the purchase of Inglenook and Beaulieu Vineyards.

1970: The Beckstoffer family moves to California and Andy establishes the Vinifera Development Corporation for Heublein, directing the vineyard management as its president.

1973: Andy buys Heublein’s Vinifera Development Corp. and establishes Beckstoffer Vineyards taking ownership of his first vineyard (Melrose) while leasing several others in Napa and Mendocino County.

1975: The Napa Valley Grape Growers Association is founded by Andy.

1978: Beckstoffer Vineyards purchases 17 hectares of vineyards in Carneros appellation of Napa Valley.

1981:  Beckstoffer Vineyards purchases 100 hectares of prime vineyard land in Mendocino County.

1983: Beckstoffer purchases his first “Heritage Vineyard,” Las Piedras Vineyard, in Napa Valley.

1989:  Beckstoffer is instrumental in establishing the winery definition ordinance requiring that 75% of grapes used in Napa wines must be from Napa Valley.

1988 – 1997: Beckstoffer Vineyards purchases five more Heritage Vineyard sites (To Kalon, Missouri Hopper, Dr. Crane, George III, and Bourn)

1994: Andy becomes founding director and first president of the Rutherford Dust Society.

1996-1999:  Beckstoffer Vineyards purchases over 1,000 acres of Red Hills vineyard land in Lake County.

1997: David Beckstoffer, Andy’s eldest son, joins the family-owned business.

2020: Beckstoffer Vineyards celebrates 50 years of growing the highest quality grapes in Northern California.

Related articles

• Signorello Estate: Meeting winemaker Priyanka French plus four current releases tasted
• Napa and Sonoma 2023: Harvest forecast
• Bella Oaks Vineyard retrospective: A 15-vintage vertical