Expert’s Choice: Old Vine South Africa

In June 2017, South Africa House in Trafalgar Square, London, was the venue for a landmark tasting. The Old Vine Project had come to town, and on offer were some of the most exciting wines yet to emerge from the Cape.

The Old Vine Project (OVP) had its roots in 2002 when leading viticulturist Rosa Kruger began searching out old vineyards – minimum 35 years – because they ‘reflect the earth and the terroir they grow in… Age in vines brings an intensity, a perceived freshness, a texture and a sense of place.’

Nancy Gilchrist MW’s top 18 old-vine wines from South Africa

In 2016 the project received a boost with sponsorship from Johann Rupert of Swiss-based luxury goods company Richemont, while in the same year former Wines of South Africa UK director André Morgenthal and viticulturist Jaco Engelbrecht were appointed as marketing and viticultural advisor respectively. The OVP seeks to raise awareness of the oenological and economic benefits of old vines, both internally in South Africa so that current young vines will be nurtured and preserved, and internationally so that global consumers will be prepared to pay the price necessary to sustain these viticultural links to the cultural past.

Remarkably, South Africa has no fewer than 39 grape varieties in its list of old vineyards. The major variety by far is Chenin Blanc at 52%, followed by Cinsault and Pinotage, both at 5%, Palomino at 4% and Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Syrah and Tinta Barocca next in the rankings. These are mostly bush vines and – importantly at a time of significant climate change – most are dry-farmed (unirrigated).

Engelbrecht, who has specialised in the rehabilitation of old vineyards, is researching what it is that has made these specific vines survive: they have much to teach us. By making use of Geographic Information Systems, Englebrecht hopes to establish a more scientific approach to growing healthier old vines.

Currently, it is thought there are about 2,640ha of old vines in South Africa – representing about 1% of total plantings – but many more could be identified before long. Morgenthal estimates that around 80% of these old vines are within the cooperative system, meaning that members are obliged to sell to their cellar or face financial penalties. If the OVP is successful, individual vineyard owners may be able to sell their old-vine harvests directly to willing purchasers for much higher returns. The beneficial impact on some of the less advantaged members of society is clear.

The London OVP tasting was the very first South African old-vines tasting in the UK. Of the 77 wines shown, the majority were white, but almost all were received with genuine admiration, white and red, dry and sweet. The following are some of the highlights.

Nancy Gilchrist MW is a freelance wine educator and consultant with a focus on wine and food. She also publishes www.mattersoftaste.co.uk

See Nancy Gilchrist MW’s top 18 old-vine wines from South Africa

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