How does 2010 white Burgundy taste today?
Stephen Brook recently attended a retrospective tasting of 32 white Burgundies from the 2010 vintage, arranged by Sarah Marsh MW. How do these wines perform nearly a decade on?
Across much of Europe, 2010 was a tightrope vintage. Its high acidity nature could result in brilliant, vibrant wines, or harsh, edgy wines. For estates that succeeded in mastering the vintage, 2010 is a great year; for others, marginal.
In Burgundy, the vintage was problematic: poor weather at flowering had reduced the crop, and while the summer was mostly warm, damp periods delivered mildew and botrytis in their wake.
Scroll down for Stephen’s 2010 white Burgundy tasting notes
But it wasn’t that sunny: weather watchers counted only 20 days of sunshine over the summer. August was cooler, then a warmer September brought storms and some botrytis.
The Chardonnay did ripen, but the uncertain climate made the grapes fragile, and most growers decided there was nothing to gain from delaying harvest much beyond mid-September, especially as more storms were forecast. Yields were down by 10-30%.
Despite these difficulties, the white wines turned out very well, even if they are probably not at the same high qualitative level as the reds – they are certainly less consistent.
Nine years on, that is still reflected in the wines and it’s impossible to generalise about the vintage, except that there are very few flabby or heavy whites.
Nor is it necessarily true that the finest crus delivered the very best wines: at this tasting there were wines of exceptional origin that disappointed, while some simpler village wines had kept their vivacity.
Some wines now seem quite evolved, but fortunately the dreaded premature oxidation was not in evidence. The majority are well balanced, with attractive persistence and moderate alcohols.
The appropriate comparison is not with the richer 2009s but with the steelier 2008s. Franck Grux, winemaker for Olivier Leflaive, has always held that view: ‘The acidity is similar, but the 2010s have more richness as low yields concentrated the fruit.’
I would have guessed, before tasting these 32 wines, that most of them would still be a distance away from their peak – but that isn’t the case. True, a handful have the structure, acidity and energy to see them through the next decade effortlessly, however many others are approachable now, although there’s no rush to drink most of them now. To cellar systematically all white 2010s for many years to come could be a mistake.
At the time of harvest it was often said that Meursault, which was more affected by botrytis than Puligny or Chassagne, might give disappointing and heavy wines. That does appear to have been the case, although they were some outstanding bottles from Meursault as well as other villages.
Of the less renowned villages, St Aubin showed more positively than Pernand-Vergelesses – but then it usually is.
2010 white Burgundy in 2019:
Wines grouped by village
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Domaine Chevrot, Tilleul, Bourgogne, Aligoté, Burgundy, France, 2010
Aligote is a variety usually employed to make the aperitif kir, although it's also a speciality of the village of Bouzeron. Usually drunk young, this...
2010
Domaine ChevrotBourgogne
Domaine Chevrot, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2010
There's just a trace of oxidation on the nose here, although it's not detectable on the palate. Age has given it some buttery aromas too....
2010
Domaine ChevrotHautes-Côtes de Beaune
Domaine Rollin Père & Fils, Pernand-Vergelesses, 1er Cru Les Clous, Burgundy, France, 2010
This family domaine has been run since 2003 by Simon Rollin. The nose is subdued, with waxy, appley aromas. It's fresh, brisk and lively, not...
2010
Domaine Rollin Père & FilsPernand-Vergelesses
Michel Bouzereau, Meursault, 1er Cru Genevrières, Burgundy, France, 2010
Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau is capable of making outstanding Meursaults, but for some reason this particular bottle didn't sing - although the cru showed superbly when I...
2010
Michel BouzereauMeursault
Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Clos de La Barre, Meursault, Burgundy, France, 2010
The Clos de La Barre vineyard adjoins the house within the village of Meursault. It's not a premier cru, and yet it's capable, as here,...
2010
Domaine des Comtes LafonMeursault
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Meursault, 1er Cru Genevrières, Burgundy, France, 2010
<p>This ancient property is the largest owner of this vineyard, with 2ha in its possession. Ripe citrus dominates the nose, which is firm, rich and...
2010
Domaine Latour-GiraudMeursault
Patrick Javillier, Les Clousots, Meursault, Burgundy, France, 2010
Tasted from magnum, the nose is shy and inexpressive, with lurking lemony aromas. It's juicy, suave and concentrated, and now beginning to show some evolution,...
2010
Patrick JavillierMeursault
Domaine Remi Jobard, Meursault, 1er Cru Genevrières, Burgundy, France, 2010
This was another disappointing wine from the recent tasting, with a weighty palate that seems atypical of Jobard's pungent, mineral style. There's some mild appley...
2010
Domaine Remi JobardMeursault
Domaine Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Morgeot, Burgundy, France, 2010
Morgeot is a large site, so the wines are not always consistent, but in this vintage Alex Moreau has excelled. The nose is vigorous and...
2010
Domaine Bernard MoreauChassagne-Montrachet
Domaine Bruno Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru En Remilly, Burgundy, France, 2010
Bruno Colin, a leading producer of the small 1.5ha premier cru of En Remilly, favours a lean and mineral style of Chassagne, and this seems...
2010
Domaine Bruno ColinChassagne-Montrachet
Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru La Romanée, Burgundy, France, 2010
The Fontaine-Gagnard wines are often forward and not that structured, but this is an exceptional site known for its powerful wines. The colour is quite...
2010
Domaine Fontaine-GagnardChassagne-Montrachet
Domaine Buisson-Charles, Meursault, 1er Cru Les Gouttes d'Or, Burgundy, France, 2010
Of the six hectares owned by the domaine, four are in Meursault, with numerous parcels of very old vines. Goutte d'Or can be a...
2010
Domaine Buisson-CharlesMeursault
Domaine Blain-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Clos St-Jean, Burgundy, France, 2010
The Blain-Gagnard style favours discreet and subtle rather than explosive wines. This shows muted pear and apricot aromas with a light toastiness. It's sleek and...
2010
Domaine Blain-GagnardChassagne-Montrachet
Domaine Marc Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Vergers, Burgundy, France, 2010
The hallmark at Marc Morey has always been succulent, upfront fruit, and so it proves here, although Vergers can often give stonier wines. The nose...
2010
Domaine Marc MoreyChassagne-Montrachet
Domaine Hubert Lamy, St-Aubin, 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien, Burgundy, France, 2010
From a top site in St-Aubin, this is still going strong. There are rich apricot and apple aromas on the lightly oaky and assertive nose....
2010
Domaine Hubert LamySt-Aubin
Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet, St-Aubin, 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien, Burgundy, France, 2010
Bachelet's version of Murgers, despite some evolution in colour, remains very youthful. The nose is firm and oaky, with apricot and pear compote aromas, while...
2010
Domaine Jean-Claude BacheletSt-Aubin
Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Combettes, Burgundy, France, 2010
Few would question that Combettes, which is close to Meursault, is one of Puligny's outstanding vineyards and Leflaive's wine lives up to that reputation. The...
2010
Domaine LeflaivePuligny-Montrachet
Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Sous le Puits, Burgundy, France, 2010
The Bachelet family, based in St-Aubin, has produced a superb wine from this lofty site. The nose is rich and toasty, with great power and...
2010
Domaine Jean-Claude BacheletPuligny-Montrachet
Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Referts, Burgundy, France, 2010
Fichet is best known for his Meursaults but he also produces a fine Puligny from old vines. This wine showed superbly in 2012, and hasn't...
2010
Domaine Jean-Philippe FichetPuligny-Montrachet
Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Folatières, Burgundy, France, 2010
Anne-Claude Leflaive, who died in 2015, was a passionate advocate of biodynamism, and the wines in this tasting seem to confirm her view. There are...
2010
Domaine LeflaivePuligny-Montrachet
Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Combettes, Burgundy, France, 2010
Gérard Boudot is another producer who makes an outstanding and full-bodied Combettes from his 1ha parcel. The apricotty nose is reticent, with slightly less precision...
2010
Etienne SauzetPuligny-Montrachet
Domaine Jacques Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Perrières, Burgundy, France, 2010
Quite a deep colour in the glass, but there is absolutely no oxidation going on here. Remarkably fresh and intense, with great acidity providing an...
2010
Domaine Jacques CarillonPuligny-Montrachet
Olivier Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru La Truffière, Burgundy, France, 2010
Olivier Leflaive manages to succeed at all levels, from basic wines such as Rully to the grandest of grands crus. This is a good example...
2010
Olivier LeflaivePuligny-Montrachet
Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Folatières, Burgundy, France, 2010
The well-known Chavy domaine was divided between two sons in 2003, Jean-Louis and Alain. This bottling is now evolving, showing a medium yellow-straw colour. There's...
2010
Domaine Jean-Louis ChavyPuligny-Montrachet
Domaine Pernot-Belicard, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru Champ-Canet, Burgundy, France, 2010
As so often happens in Burgundy, a dynastic marriage between offspring of wine-producing families created a new domaine, this one in 2009. This wine is...
2010
Domaine Pernot-BelicardPuligny-Montrachet
Domaine Terre de Velles, Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy, France, 2010
The Laronze family formed this 6ha property in Auxey-Duresses in 2009, and its wines proved a welcome surprise. This village Puligny has a fragrant lime...
2010
Domaine Terre de VellesPuligny-Montrachet
Domaine Jacques Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy, France, 2010
The Carillon family has been farming in Puligny for almost four centuries, although the estate is now divided between two sons. This is a fine...
2010
Domaine Jacques CarillonPuligny-Montrachet
Bouchard Père & Fils, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2010
Bouchard has always been admired for its two wines from this exceptional grand cru. This was fabulous when I tasted it in its infancy in...
2010
Bouchard Père & FilsChevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2010
Tasted from magnum, this has a sumptuous and luxurious nose that's buttery and fleshy, given complexity with its distinct toastiness. The attack is fresher, with...
2010
Domaine Jean-Noël GagnardBâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Olivier Leflaive, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2010
For some reason, Olivier Leflaive's Cortons are always sound but rarely thrilling, and this is no exception. The toasty nose is mild and appley but...
2010
Olivier LeflaiveCorton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Domaine Rapet, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2010
This domaine is lucky enough to have over 2ha of vines in Corton-Charlemagne. The nose is surprisingly dumb, although the palate is fresh and juicy...
2010
Domaine RapetCorton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Domaine Chanson, Corton-Vergennes Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2010
Chanson is the main producer of this rarely seen grand cru. However, this particular bottle has not aged well. The colour is evolved and the...
2010
Domaine ChansonCorton-Vergennes Grand Cru
