Portugals-native-reds-best-buys.jpg
(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

As the quality revolution gathers pace, Portuguese winemakers are producing a varied range of reds from indigenous varieties, with top examples highlighting a revival of lighter styles. Sarah Ahmed reports

How thrilling to see the Arenae Ramisco 2007 from Adega Regional de Colares top this two-day tasting of 137 UK-imported Portuguese reds in such an important price bracket.

Together with the similarly rare Vulcânico Red 2015 from the Azores Wine Co (joint second on 93), Filipa Pato’s Post-Quercus Baga 2015 (amphora-fermented and aged) from Bairrada (90) and Aphros’ Vinhão 2015 from Vinho Verde (89), it additionally reflects an exciting revival of lighter, fragrant, nuanced reds from coastal regions.Consistently producing fuller-bodied, satisfying reds, where judicious oak adds spice and polished tannins, the Douro and Alentejo have been at the vanguard of Portugal’s quality wine revolution.They easily fielded the most entries; a third from each (17 from the Douro, 11 from Alentejo) dominated the top 38. With more time for tannins to integrate, some Douro wines (especially from 2013) might warrant higher scores.Top wines did not forsake freshness. In Alentejo, Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira brought savoury complexity to temper fruit expression.

Returning to the less extractive theme, we had a high score from an unoaked, amphora-fermented/aged red from Herdade São Miguel (who, strikingly, produced four of Alentejo’s five top reds). Scoring it 95 points, two tasters sighed over the Barolo-like savoury complexity and structure of Vadio’s Baga 2013 (£11.50), reinforcing the fact that this Bairrada grape can be a great buy.

Neighbouring Dão, another classic region, disappointed. Only three of 20 entries demonstrated the elegance and structure we expected to find. As for those regions that have traditionally focused on bulk and value-driven wines, they were effortlessly outclassed. No wines from Tejo, Lisboa or Península de Setúbal made the cut.

With its diverse terroir, huge varietal range, tradition of blending and the odd, esoteric single varietal (Ramisco, Baga), Portugal is never boring. Quality, however, can be inconsistent, so it pays to do your homework on producers and vintages. Douro and Alentejo look like safe bets but, as Colares, Azores and other regions demonstrate, do not be afraid to venture further afield. Portugal is dusting down its vinous gems to great effect.

The Tasters

Sarah Ahmed is a wine writer, educator and DWWA Regional Chair for Portugal. She publishes the winedetective.co.uk

Ieva Markaityte is head sommelier at top Portuguese restaurant, Taberna do Mercado, in London

Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is the first Brazilian Master of Wine. He is a consultant, wine educator, judge and author


Portugal’s native reds: best buys

Adega Regional de Colares, Arenae Ramisco, Colares, Portugal, 2007

My wines

95

Graceful and gently fragrant with aromas of dried roses, undergrowth, cedar and hints of exotic spices. Enticingly complex on the palate yet wonderfully fresh, leading to a long and persistent finish. A beautiful example, showing real finesse and typicity.

2007

ColaresPortugal

Adega Regional de Colares

The Azores Wine Co., Vulcânico, Azores, Portugal, 2015

My wines

93

Perfumed and vivacious, with complex aromas of leather, cedar and pencil shavings leading to a deliciously light and elegant palate, with savoury complexity and lively, refreshing acidity. Saborinho at its best.

2015

AzoresPortugal

The Azores Wine Co.

Herdade de São Miguel, Escolha dos Enologos, Alentejo, Portugal, 2015

My wines

93

An archetypal Alentejo red, with dark, juicy fruit jumping out of the glass. Generous, glossy and fruit-forward, therein lying the pleasure – powerful and opulent but not at all heavy.

2015

AlentejoPortugal

Herdade de São Miguel

Wine & Soul, Manoella, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014

My wines

92

A herbal-tinged, red cherry nose unfurls onto an elegant, silky-soft yet sophisticated palate with herbal and liquorice-toned dark fruit mobilised by refined tannins and crisp, refreshing acidity.

2014

Douro ValleyPortugal

Wine & Soul

Casa Ferreirinha, Callabriga, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014

My wines

96

DWWA 2017 Gold medal: Deep, dark, rich and spicy nose. Intense black plum, prune and cherry on palate with bergamot and graphite. Bold with wonderful ripeness.

2014

Douro ValleyPortugal

Casa Ferreirinha

Casca Wines, Cabo da Roca, Bairrada, Portugal, 2015

My wines

91

Youthful yet approachable, with a restrained nose of smoky dark fruit welcoming a satisfying purity of fruit in the mouth, raised up by fine but firm tannins and a pretty floral lift on the finish.

2015

BairradaPortugal

Casca Wines

Herdade de São Miguel, Art.Terra Amphora, Alentejo, Portugal, 2016

My wines

91

On the nose, graceful notes of blackberries, fruit cake and violets, while lovely juicy, fleshy and smooth fruit is underpinned by a beautiful freshness on the palate.

2016

AlentejoPortugal

Herdade de São Miguel

Herdade de São Miguel, Alicante Bouschet, Alentejo, Portugal, 2015

My wines

91

Highly expressive and fruit-driven, with dark plummy fruit accompanying notes of pine, dried herbs and sweet spice. Impressive, forward and juicy.

2015

AlentejoPortugal

Herdade de São Miguel

Herdade de São Miguel, Trincadeira, Alentejo, Portugal, 2014

My wines

91

Enticing, complex nose of dark fruit enhanced by notes of wild herbs and chocolate, followed by a ripe and juicy palate flaunting intensity and freshness. Rich yet wonderfully harmonious.

2014

AlentejoPortugal

Herdade de São Miguel

Prats & Symington, Prazo de Roriz, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2015

My wines

91

Young yet focused, with a vanillin oak character on the nose and palate adorning blackberry and dark cherry fruit, underpinned by firm yet fine-grained tannins and a zesty freshness.

2015

Douro ValleyPortugal

Prats & Symington

Quinta do Passadouro, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014

My wines

91

Lifted, energetic and persistent, with herbal and chocolate-laden dark fruit aromas ceding to a seductive and classy palate with a well-defined, elegant structure and zesty acidity.

2014

Douro ValleyPortugal

Quinta do Passadouro

Torre do Frade, Alentejo, Portugal, 2007

My wines

91

This is 10 years old yet still fresh and fragrant, showing a beautiful savoury complexity, with aromas of leafy tobacco and mint unfolding onto a silky textured, plummy, chocolate-toned palate. At its peak now.

2007

AlentejoPortugal

Torre do Frade

Alves de Sousa, Caldas, Touriga Nacional, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2013

My wines

90

Expressive and vibrant, displaying intense aromas and flavours of blackberry jam, mocha and sweet spice. Refined and elegant on the palate, yet concentrated, with an invigorating freshness.

2013

Douro ValleyPortugal

Alves de Sousa

Alves de Sousa, Gaivosa Primeiros Anos, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2013

My wines

90

Dark forest fruit, blackberry compote and violet scents on the nose, which are mirrored on the palate. Forward, expressive and generous, with longlingering, silky fruit and assertive tannins.

2013

Douro ValleyPortugal

Alves de Sousa

António Canto Moniz, Vinha Paz Colheita, Dão, Portugal, 2015

My wines

90

Floral, sweet, forest fruit on both the nose and palate, with oak lightly worn, while notes of fruit, spice and a lick of graphite are refreshed by finely poised acidity. Lovely typicity and elegance here.

2015

DãoPortugal

António Canto Moniz

Caminhos Cruzados, Titular Alfrocheiro, Dão, Portugal, 2014

My wines

90

A textbook, modern example of Dão with smooth and seductive dark fruit partnered by earthy notes and an animal complexity, all underpinned by well-judged oak and sublimely soft, integrated tannins.

2014

DãoPortugal

Caminhos Cruzados

Casa Ferreirinha, Papa Figos, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2015

My wines

90

Lifted and lively, with overt and juicy dark fruit that’s framed by firm, sophisticated tannins and a lovely underlying freshness – crunchy and persistent with a real sense of harmony; nicely done.

2015

Douro ValleyPortugal

Casa Ferreirinha

Filipa Pato, Post Quercus Baga, Beiras, Portugal, 2015

My wines

90

Fragrant and inviting, with aromas of dark fruit, cedar and dried leaves on the nose. On the palate it shows an attractive savoury character underpinned with lively freshness and a persistent finish.

2015

BeirasPortugal

Filipa Pato

M Chapoutier (Portugal), Pinteivera, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2012

My wines

90

Intense, generous aromas and flavours of herbal, spice and violet-tinged blackberry and dark cherry fruit, boasting well integrated tannins and alcohol. Ageing gracefully and with plenty left to give.

2012

Douro ValleyPortugal

M Chapoutier (Portugal)

Niepoort, Vertente, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014

My wines

90

Enticing, complex aromas of dark fruit and wild herbs dominate the nose. Unforced yet persistent in the mouth with alluring plummy fruit, lively acidity and tamed yet firm tannins. Vinous and elegant.

2014

Douro ValleyPortugal

Niepoort

Quinta da Romaneira, Touriga Nacional, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014

My wines

90

An effusive nose of dark fruit embellished by scents of wild herbs, violet and sweet spice. This is followed by a generous palate with lovely concentration of fruit alongside nutty oak and sleek tannins.

2014

Douro ValleyPortugal

Quinta da Romaneira

Quinta do Correio, Dão, Portugal, 2014

My wines

90

Gentle, elegant and easy to drink, dishing up bergamot, thyme and dark chocolate nuances against a core of beautifully juicy and peppery dark fruit. True-to-type and terroir-driven.

2014

DãoPortugal

Quinta do Correio

Quinta do Mouro, Vinha do Mouro, Alentejo, Portugal, 2012

My wines

90

Mellow and harmonious, offering a wonderfully mature and complex mouthful of brambly fruit enriched by piercing notes of mint-chocolate, tobacco and dried leaves. Drinking well now.

2012

AlentejoPortugal

Quinta do Mouro

Sociedade Agricola D Diniz, Monte da Ravasqueira Touriga Franca, Alentejo, Portugal, 2013

My wines

90

A still very fresh and vivid expression of Touriga Franca. Dark fruit, black olive, roses, chocolate and sweet spice, bolstered by sinewy tannins.

2013

AlentejoPortugal

Sociedade Agricola D Diniz

Quinta do Ataíde, Symington, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014

My wines

90

Impactful nose of forest fruit, dark chocolate and mocha, with ravishingly juicy fruit on the palate underpinned by a racy freshness to fuel an alluringly persistent finish.

2014

Douro ValleyPortugal

Quinta do Ataíde

Symington, Altano Organic, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2015

My wines

90

Fans out with intense aromas of plums, dark cherries, blackberries and bergamot. Voluptuous and opulent in the mouth with dense dark fruit, a firm backbone and zesty acidity. Will reward cellaring.

2015

Douro ValleyPortugal

Symington

Vadio, Bairrada, Portugal, 2013

My wines

90

Elegant and seductive, with fine-grained tannins propelling a delightful purity of fruit and a sensational savoury complexity, with touches of tobacco and mint. Lively and convincing.

2013

BairradaPortugal

Vadio

Aphros, Vinhao Tinto, Vinho Verde, Portugal, 2015

My wines

89

Youthful and vibrant with an enticing purity of succulent, floral-toned red fruit – convincing yet not overly serious, with real refreshment value.

2015

Vinho VerdePortugal

Aphros

Casa Ferreirinha, Vinha Grande, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2015

My wines

89

Restrained bouquet of dark fruit garnished by violet, dried herbs and sweet spice. The tightly knit palate offers concentrated and persistent black cherry fruit.

2015

Douro ValleyPortugal

Casa Ferreirinha

Esporão, Quinta dos Murças, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2012

My wines

89

Fragrant, inviting aromas of blackberries, pine and dried leaves. Lovely purity of fruit on the palate, with a silky texture.

2012

Douro ValleyPortugal

Esporão

Esporão, Trincadeira, Alentejo, Portugal, 2016

My wines

89

A pure, fresh, medium-bodied style, overt and fruit-forward, with no sign of oak. Attractive and easy-going, with a satisfying varietal typicity.

2016

AlentejoPortugal

Esporão

José Maria da Fonseca, Ripanço, Alentejo, Portugal, 2016

My wines

89

Savoury and characterful, with gratifyingly soft and freeflowing brambly fruit encased within a harmonious structure, leading to a finely tapered finish.

2016

AlentejoPortugal

José Maria da Fonseca

Niepoort, Drink Me, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2015

My wines

89

An unshowy example that displays real finesse yet also an excellent concentration of cranberry fruit and spicy oak.

2015

Douro ValleyPortugal

Niepoort

Quinta do Passadouro, Touriga Nacional, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014

My wines

89

Flashy and modern in style, with intense oaky notes engraving dark fruit, cedar and liquorice characters, supplemented by firm tannins. To be cellared a while longer.

2014

Douro ValleyPortugal

Quinta do Passadouro

Quinta do Sagrado, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2012

My wines

89

Dark-fruited aromas are intensified by violet, tea and dark chocolate traits, leading to a rich and powerful palate with a firm tannic edge; needs some time to soften.

2012

Douro ValleyPortugal

Quinta do Sagrado

Terra d’Alter, Alicante Bouschet, Alentejo, Portugal, 2014

My wines

89

Initially timid, slowly revealing notes of dark forest fruit, black tea and exotic spices. Powerful flavour with grippy tannins.

2014

AlentejoPortugal

Terra d’Alter

Terra d’Alter, Alentejo, Portugal, 2014

My wines

89

Elegant oaky aromas, with juicy dark fruit, spice and undergrowth. Harmonious palate with a zesty freshness ferrying onto a pleasing finish.

2014

AlentejoPortugal

Terra d’Alter

Vadio, Grande, Bairrada, Portugal, 2012

My wines

89

Discreet floral aromas, with bottle-aged characters on the palate partnering attractive brambly fruit. Tannins are firm but sophisticated; will repay some more patience.

2012

BairradaPortugal

Vadio

Sarah Ahmed
Decanter Magazine, Portugal Expert & DWWA Regional Chair for Portugal
Sarah Ahmed, aka ,, is an independent, London-based wine writer, educator and judge. She was awarded the Vintners Cup in 2003, the Wine of Portugal Personality of the Year (Europe) 2019 and Honorary Australian Woman of Wine Award 2017.