Portugal’s native reds: best buys at £8-£25
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As the quality revolution gathers pace, Portuguese winemakers are producing a varied range of reds from indigenous varieties, with top examples highlighting a revival of lighter styles. Sarah Ahmed reports
How thrilling to see the Arenae Ramisco 2007 from Adega Regional de Colares top this two-day tasting of 137 UK-imported Portuguese reds in such an important price bracket.
This near-extinct, ungrafted grape (Ramisco) from a near-extinct region (Colares, by the Atlantic coast to the west of Lisbon) showed terrific varietal and regional authenticity and complexity, winning a score of 95 points.
Together with the similarly rare Vulcânico Red 2015 from the Azores Wine Co (joint second on 93), Filipa Pato’s Post-Quercus Baga 2015 (amphora-fermented and aged) from Bairrada (90) and Aphros’ Vinhão 2015 from Vinho Verde (89), it additionally reflects an exciting revival of lighter, fragrant, nuanced reds from coastal regions.Consistently producing fuller-bodied, satisfying reds, where judicious oak adds spice and polished tannins, the Douro and Alentejo have been at the vanguard of Portugal’s quality wine revolution.They easily fielded the most entries; a third from each (17 from the Douro, 11 from Alentejo) dominated the top 38. With more time for tannins to integrate, some Douro wines (especially from 2013) might warrant higher scores.Top wines did not forsake freshness. In Alentejo, Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira brought savoury complexity to temper fruit expression.
Returning to the less extractive theme, we had a high score from an unoaked, amphora-fermented/aged red from Herdade São Miguel (who, strikingly, produced four of Alentejo’s five top reds). Scoring it 95 points, two tasters sighed over the Barolo-like savoury complexity and structure of Vadio’s Baga 2013 (£11.50), reinforcing the fact that this Bairrada grape can be a great buy.
Neighbouring Dão, another classic region, disappointed. Only three of 20 entries demonstrated the elegance and structure we expected to find. As for those regions that have traditionally focused on bulk and value-driven wines, they were effortlessly outclassed. No wines from Tejo, Lisboa or Península de Setúbal made the cut.
With its diverse terroir, huge varietal range, tradition of blending and the odd, esoteric single varietal (Ramisco, Baga), Portugal is never boring. Quality, however, can be inconsistent, so it pays to do your homework on producers and vintages. Douro and Alentejo look like safe bets but, as Colares, Azores and other regions demonstrate, do not be afraid to venture further afield. Portugal is dusting down its vinous gems to great effect.
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The Tasters
Sarah Ahmed is a wine writer, educator and DWWA Regional Chair for Portugal. She publishes the winedetective.co.uk
Ieva Markaityte is head sommelier at top Portuguese restaurant, Taberna do Mercado, in London
Dirceu Vianna Junior MW is the first Brazilian Master of Wine. He is a consultant, wine educator, judge and author
Portugal’s native reds: best buys
Adega Regional de Colares, Arenae Ramisco, Colares, Portugal, 2007

95
Graceful and gently fragrant with aromas of dried roses, undergrowth, cedar and hints of exotic spices. Enticingly complex on the palate yet wonderfully fresh, leading to a long and persistent finish. A beautiful example, showing real finesse and typicity.
2007
ColaresPortugal
Adega Regional de Colares
The Azores Wine Co., Vulcânico, Azores, Portugal, 2015
93
Perfumed and vivacious, with complex aromas of leather, cedar and pencil shavings leading to a deliciously light and elegant palate, with savoury complexity and lively, refreshing acidity. Saborinho at its best.
2015
AzoresPortugal
The Azores Wine Co.
Herdade de São Miguel, Escolha dos Enologos, Alentejo, Portugal, 2015

93
An archetypal Alentejo red, with dark, juicy fruit jumping out of the glass. Generous, glossy and fruit-forward, therein lying the pleasure – powerful and opulent but not at all heavy.
2015
AlentejoPortugal
Herdade de São Miguel
Wine & Soul, Manoella, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014

92
A herbal-tinged, red cherry nose unfurls onto an elegant, silky-soft yet sophisticated palate with herbal and liquorice-toned dark fruit mobilised by refined tannins and crisp, refreshing acidity.
2014
Douro ValleyPortugal
Wine & Soul
Casa Ferreirinha, Callabriga, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014

96
DWWA 2017 Gold medal: Deep, dark, rich and spicy nose. Intense black plum, prune and cherry on palate with bergamot and graphite. Bold with wonderful ripeness.
2014
Douro ValleyPortugal
Casa Ferreirinha
Casca Wines, Cabo da Roca, Bairrada, Portugal, 2015

91
Youthful yet approachable, with a restrained nose of smoky dark fruit welcoming a satisfying purity of fruit in the mouth, raised up by fine but firm tannins and a pretty floral lift on the finish.
2015
BairradaPortugal
Casca Wines
Herdade de São Miguel, Art.Terra Amphora, Alentejo, Portugal, 2016

91
On the nose, graceful notes of blackberries, fruit cake and violets, while lovely juicy, fleshy and smooth fruit is underpinned by a beautiful freshness on the palate.
2016
AlentejoPortugal
Herdade de São Miguel
Herdade de São Miguel, Alicante Bouschet, Alentejo, Portugal, 2015

91
Highly expressive and fruit-driven, with dark plummy fruit accompanying notes of pine, dried herbs and sweet spice. Impressive, forward and juicy.
2015
AlentejoPortugal
Herdade de São Miguel
Herdade de São Miguel, Trincadeira, Alentejo, Portugal, 2014

91
Enticing, complex nose of dark fruit enhanced by notes of wild herbs and chocolate, followed by a ripe and juicy palate flaunting intensity and freshness. Rich yet wonderfully harmonious.
2014
AlentejoPortugal
Herdade de São Miguel
Prats & Symington, Prazo de Roriz, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2015

91
Young yet focused, with a vanillin oak character on the nose and palate adorning blackberry and dark cherry fruit, underpinned by firm yet fine-grained tannins and a zesty freshness.
2015
Douro ValleyPortugal
Prats & Symington
Quinta do Passadouro, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014

91
Lifted, energetic and persistent, with herbal and chocolate-laden dark fruit aromas ceding to a seductive and classy palate with a well-defined, elegant structure and zesty acidity.
2014
Douro ValleyPortugal
Quinta do Passadouro
Torre do Frade, Alentejo, Portugal, 2007

91
This is 10 years old yet still fresh and fragrant, showing a beautiful savoury complexity, with aromas of leafy tobacco and mint unfolding onto a silky textured, plummy, chocolate-toned palate. At its peak now.
2007
AlentejoPortugal
Torre do Frade
Alves de Sousa, Caldas, Touriga Nacional, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2013

90
Expressive and vibrant, displaying intense aromas and flavours of blackberry jam, mocha and sweet spice. Refined and elegant on the palate, yet concentrated, with an invigorating freshness.
2013
Douro ValleyPortugal
Alves de Sousa
Alves de Sousa, Gaivosa Primeiros Anos, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2013

90
Dark forest fruit, blackberry compote and violet scents on the nose, which are mirrored on the palate. Forward, expressive and generous, with longlingering, silky fruit and assertive tannins.
2013
Douro ValleyPortugal
Alves de Sousa
António Canto Moniz, Vinha Paz Colheita, Dão, Portugal, 2015

90
Floral, sweet, forest fruit on both the nose and palate, with oak lightly worn, while notes of fruit, spice and a lick of graphite are refreshed by finely poised acidity. Lovely typicity and elegance here.
2015
DãoPortugal
António Canto Moniz
Caminhos Cruzados, Titular Alfrocheiro, Dão, Portugal, 2014

90
A textbook, modern example of Dão with smooth and seductive dark fruit partnered by earthy notes and an animal complexity, all underpinned by well-judged oak and sublimely soft, integrated tannins.
2014
DãoPortugal
Caminhos Cruzados
Casa Ferreirinha, Papa Figos, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2015

90
Lifted and lively, with overt and juicy dark fruit that’s framed by firm, sophisticated tannins and a lovely underlying freshness – crunchy and persistent with a real sense of harmony; nicely done.
2015
Douro ValleyPortugal
Casa Ferreirinha
Filipa Pato, Post Quercus Baga, Beiras, Portugal, 2015
90
Fragrant and inviting, with aromas of dark fruit, cedar and dried leaves on the nose. On the palate it shows an attractive savoury character underpinned with lively freshness and a persistent finish.
2015
BeirasPortugal
Filipa Pato
M Chapoutier (Portugal), Pinteivera, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2012
90
Intense, generous aromas and flavours of herbal, spice and violet-tinged blackberry and dark cherry fruit, boasting well integrated tannins and alcohol. Ageing gracefully and with plenty left to give.
2012
Douro ValleyPortugal
M Chapoutier (Portugal)
Niepoort, Vertente, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014
90
Enticing, complex aromas of dark fruit and wild herbs dominate the nose. Unforced yet persistent in the mouth with alluring plummy fruit, lively acidity and tamed yet firm tannins. Vinous and elegant.
2014
Douro ValleyPortugal
Niepoort
Quinta da Romaneira, Touriga Nacional, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014
90
An effusive nose of dark fruit embellished by scents of wild herbs, violet and sweet spice. This is followed by a generous palate with lovely concentration of fruit alongside nutty oak and sleek tannins.
2014
Douro ValleyPortugal
Quinta da Romaneira
Quinta do Correio, Dão, Portugal, 2014
90
Gentle, elegant and easy to drink, dishing up bergamot, thyme and dark chocolate nuances against a core of beautifully juicy and peppery dark fruit. True-to-type and terroir-driven.
2014
DãoPortugal
Quinta do Correio
Quinta do Mouro, Vinha do Mouro, Alentejo, Portugal, 2012
90
Mellow and harmonious, offering a wonderfully mature and complex mouthful of brambly fruit enriched by piercing notes of mint-chocolate, tobacco and dried leaves. Drinking well now.
2012
AlentejoPortugal
Quinta do Mouro
Sociedade Agricola D Diniz, Monte da Ravasqueira Touriga Franca, Alentejo, Portugal, 2013
90
A still very fresh and vivid expression of Touriga Franca. Dark fruit, black olive, roses, chocolate and sweet spice, bolstered by sinewy tannins.
2013
AlentejoPortugal
Sociedade Agricola D Diniz
Quinta do Ataíde, Symington, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014
90
Impactful nose of forest fruit, dark chocolate and mocha, with ravishingly juicy fruit on the palate underpinned by a racy freshness to fuel an alluringly persistent finish.
2014
Douro ValleyPortugal
Quinta do Ataíde
Symington, Altano Organic, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2015

90
Fans out with intense aromas of plums, dark cherries, blackberries and bergamot. Voluptuous and opulent in the mouth with dense dark fruit, a firm backbone and zesty acidity. Will reward cellaring.
2015
Douro ValleyPortugal
Symington
Vadio, Bairrada, Portugal, 2013
90
Elegant and seductive, with fine-grained tannins propelling a delightful purity of fruit and a sensational savoury complexity, with touches of tobacco and mint. Lively and convincing.
2013
BairradaPortugal
Vadio
Aphros, Vinhao Tinto, Vinho Verde, Portugal, 2015

89
Youthful and vibrant with an enticing purity of succulent, floral-toned red fruit – convincing yet not overly serious, with real refreshment value.
2015
Vinho VerdePortugal
Aphros
Casa Ferreirinha, Vinha Grande, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2015
89
Restrained bouquet of dark fruit garnished by violet, dried herbs and sweet spice. The tightly knit palate offers concentrated and persistent black cherry fruit.
2015
Douro ValleyPortugal
Casa Ferreirinha
Esporão, Quinta dos Murças, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2012
89
Fragrant, inviting aromas of blackberries, pine and dried leaves. Lovely purity of fruit on the palate, with a silky texture.
2012
Douro ValleyPortugal
Esporão
Esporão, Trincadeira, Alentejo, Portugal, 2016
89
A pure, fresh, medium-bodied style, overt and fruit-forward, with no sign of oak. Attractive and easy-going, with a satisfying varietal typicity.
2016
AlentejoPortugal
Esporão
José Maria da Fonseca, Ripanço, Alentejo, Portugal, 2016
89
Savoury and characterful, with gratifyingly soft and freeflowing brambly fruit encased within a harmonious structure, leading to a finely tapered finish.
2016
AlentejoPortugal
José Maria da Fonseca
Niepoort, Drink Me, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2015
89
An unshowy example that displays real finesse yet also an excellent concentration of cranberry fruit and spicy oak.
2015
Douro ValleyPortugal
Niepoort
Quinta do Passadouro, Touriga Nacional, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2014
89
Flashy and modern in style, with intense oaky notes engraving dark fruit, cedar and liquorice characters, supplemented by firm tannins. To be cellared a while longer.
2014
Douro ValleyPortugal
Quinta do Passadouro
Quinta do Sagrado, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2012
89
Dark-fruited aromas are intensified by violet, tea and dark chocolate traits, leading to a rich and powerful palate with a firm tannic edge; needs some time to soften.
2012
Douro ValleyPortugal
Quinta do Sagrado
Terra d’Alter, Alicante Bouschet, Alentejo, Portugal, 2014
89
Initially timid, slowly revealing notes of dark forest fruit, black tea and exotic spices. Powerful flavour with grippy tannins.
2014
AlentejoPortugal
Terra d’Alter
Terra d’Alter, Alentejo, Portugal, 2014
89
Elegant oaky aromas, with juicy dark fruit, spice and undergrowth. Harmonious palate with a zesty freshness ferrying onto a pleasing finish.
2014
AlentejoPortugal
Terra d’Alter
Vadio, Grande, Bairrada, Portugal, 2012
89
Discreet floral aromas, with bottle-aged characters on the palate partnering attractive brambly fruit. Tannins are firm but sophisticated; will repay some more patience.
2012
BairradaPortugal
Vadio
