Tasting Conti Costanti: Eight vintages compared

Like the 1975, the 1967 represents a wine of a different era. Despite fifty years of age, the palate still possess a perceptible grip and is reinforced by tangy apply acidity. Polished leather, moss and long aged pu-erh tea are punctuated with flecks of brown sugar. Flavours fade slowly leaving behind the structure. While this surely reached its apogee a couple of decades ago, it encapsulates the incredible history of the Costanti estate. Anyone privileged enough to have this cellared should open it in that spirit.

1975 was one of two vintages in the 1970s rated five stars by the Brunello consortium. Besides owning a mere 1.5 ha at that time, Costanti was still using a small proportion of chestnut barrels making for an exotic expression. Sherry-like notes of nuts and soy make way for intriguing nuances of polished wood and sous-bois. The tannins have melted but a sappy balsamic character keeps the wine animated even upon revisiting a couple of hours later. While this has already peaked, it remains captivating and was one of the most fascinating wines of the tasting.

In addition to being a highly regarded vintage with perfectly balanced weather conditions, 2004 is a significant for Andrea and Angela as their son Giovanni was born. Like the 2006, it was aged in a combination of medium size French oak barrels and Slavonian oak casks. Compared to other examples I have enjoyed, this bottle was slightly stripped of fruit. Nevertheless, the finesse of structure showed through along with hints of wild violets, cinnamon, tea and tobacco.

Costanti harvested at the end of September in this warm rather than hot year ageing the Riserva for 18 months first in medium size French oak barrels then equal time in 30 hectolitre Slavonian oak casks. Today the wine still demonstrates the austerity of the vintage. The acidity is assertive and tannins resolute. However, it is starting to open up with fragrant fennel, iron, mineral and dark cherry. A thrilling Brunello with the best yet to come.

Baked fruit, raisins, chocolate and vanilla aromas. Flavours of tar and liquorice with a concentrated, hot palate and firm tannins.

Costanti’s 2010 truly lives up to the hype of this highly touted vintage. Warm but not extreme, it was defined by cool nights that preserved succulent acidity and decisive aromas. Here, the expressive nose shows crushed earth, sweet herbs and a tangle of dark berries. Yet the palate is still exceptionally youthful and dense with imposing, tightly wound tannin that will unfold slowly. It will glide gracefully to the denomination's 75th anniversary.

A touch closed yet refined and complex with aromas of black fruit, dried herbs and tar. Full-bodied, still reticent and tight yet clean and long. Needs time to show its best.

2013 was much cooler than preceding vintages, and Andrea waited until the beginning of October to harvest. He says it was a good year with plenty of structure, but felt it didn't have the longevity to merit making a Riserva. Indeed, rather than a voluble powerhouse this is an understated beauty. Tight and linear with lifted florals and a hint of orange, it has mouthwatering acidity and superb freshness, and will appeal to those who prize finesse.