Top 30 Languedoc white wines for summer
France’s far south is better known for reds but there is a wide range of exciting white wine styles thanks to the region's abundance of traditional grape varieties and winemakers' skill in creating interesting blends. Time to start exploring, says Rosemary George MW...
Traditionally the Languedoc is a region of red wines. With the exception of Clairette du Languedoc, all the region’s early appellations concentrated on red and tended to ignore white wine.
St-Chinian and Faugères were appellations for red wine in 1982, whereas their white counterparts were not created until 2005.
In the extensive Coteaux du Languedoc, Picpoul de Pinet was recognised as a small pocket of white wine, and indeed became an appellation in its own right in 2005. La Clape, another coastal region, has also developed a distinctive identity, depending on the maritime influence as well as its own grape variety, Bourboulenc.
Scroll down to see George’s top 30 Languedoc whites to try
In surprising contrast, the two most recently created appellations, Pic St-Loup and Terrasses du Larzac, are for red only, despite the fact that those vineyards are among the coolest and highest of the whole region.
Any white wine from those areas will either be IGP (indication géographique protégée) or plain AP Languedoc.
But all that may well be about to change, as appreciation of the white wines of Languedoc grows. As Béatrice Fillon from Le Clos du Serres in the Terrasses du Larzac observes: ‘There is a whole history to build for white wine. It will take time, with new areas to discover and develop, and a growing choice of grape varieties.’
Limoux is the other appellation where white wine came first, after sparkling, in 1993, focusing on the traditional Mauzac, as well as Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc; the appellation is unusual in demanding an élevage in oak.
Elsewhere, the international varieties Chardonnay and Sauvignon feature in IGP Pays d’Oc, but do not contribute to the originality of the Languedoc.
That comes from the reassessment of some of the original grape varieties of the region, such as Carignan Blanc, Clairette, Grenaches Blanc and Gris, and Terret, to name but a handful, which were ignored but are now being appreciated anew.
Blends rather than varietal wines are the true focus of the Languedoc, providing original and eclectic flavours.
Marsanne, Roussanne and Vermentino contribute to those, accompanied by a growing list of possibilities.
You may find Gros Manseng, Petite Arvine and even the most recently recognised variety of the Pays d’Oc, Albariño, pioneered by Laurent Miquel in the high hills above the Corbières village of Lagrasse.
What follows is a snapshot of the wonderful diversity and originality of the Languedoc, available on the British wine market this summer, based on an extensive tasting at the Maison de la Région Occitanie in London.
Some of the big names are missing; they are currently not on the market or their wines simply were not submitted for tasting.
Rosemary George MW is a widely published wine writer, author and judge. Her latest book is Wines of the Languedoc, published in April 2018 (£30 Infinite Ideas).
See George’s pick of the best 30 Languedoc whites to try
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Château Rives-Blanques, Dédicace Chenin Blanc, Limoux, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016
From a leading estate in Limoux. Light in colour, dry honey on nose and palate with fine varietal character. Well-rounded with fresh acidity on the...
2016
Château Rives-BlanquesLimoux
Clos Centeilles, Mosaïque de Centeilles, Côtes du Brian, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2015
Patricia Domergue is an enthusiast for the lost grape varieties of the Languedoc, both red and white. The colour of this blend is golden, the...
2015
Clos CenteillesCôtes du Brian
Mas Champart, Blanc, Pays d'Oc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2015
This St-Chinian estate has a well established track record for white wines. A blend of 70% Terret with Grenache Gris, making for wonderfully original flavours....
2015
Mas ChampartPays d'Oc
Borie La Vitarèle, Le Grand Mayol, St-Chinian, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016
This leading St-Chinian estate is now courageously run by Jean-François Izarn’s widow Cathy. Equal parts Bourboulenc, Clairette and Vermentino, it takes a Languedoc AP for...
2016
Borie La VitarèleSt-Chinian
Château d’Anglès, Grand Vin, La Clape, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016
Richly textured, its weight and length contrast nicely with the fresher Classique from the same property. As Château la Rivière-Haute, this was the pioneering estate...
2016
Château d’AnglèsLa Clape
Domaine des Trinités, L’Imaginaire Roussanne, Pays d'Oc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017
An original Roussanne, given several days of skin maceration. Depth of colour, some ginger notes with a streak of tannin. Good balancing acidity, elegant freshness.A...
2017
Domaine des TrinitésPays d'Oc
Château de Lascaux, Les Pierres d’Argent, Pic St-Loup, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2014
This Pic St-Loup estate has a well-deserved reputation for its white wine and provides an argument for the creation of a white appellation. Elegant and...
2014
Château de LascauxPic St-Loup
Domaine de l'Hortus, Grande Cuvée, Val de Montferrand, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2015
An intriguing blend featuring Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Gris and Petit Manseng. Lots of nuances from the diversity of grapes. Rich and leesy on the nose,...
2015
Domaine de l'HortusVal de Montferrand
Mas d’Alezon, Cabretta, Faugères, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016
A satisfying blend of predominantly Roussanne with Clairette and Grenache Blanc. Some depth of colour, quite a rich nose and a rounded, textured palate, with...
2016
Mas d’AlezonFaugères
Boulevard Napoléon, Grenache Gris, Pays d'Hérault, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2015
A lovely example of how suited Grenache Gris is to the Languedoc, and an argument for separating its identity from Grenache Blanc (the former often...
2015
Boulevard NapoléonPays d'Hérault
Château Rouquette sur Mer, Cuvée Arpège, La Clape, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017
92
From a long-established estate in La Clape, a blend based on Bourboulenc with Roussanne. Light in colour, a fragrantly fresh herbal nose and good salty acidity on the palate, with a refreshing finish. Contrasts nicely with this producer’s more serious oak-aged Cuvée Henry Lapierre.
2017
Château Rouquette sur MerLa Clape
Frontignan Muscat, Terres Blanches Muscat Sec, Pays d'Oc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016
The declining fortunes of sweet Muscat have resulted in a vast improvement in the quality of dry Muscat, as an IGP rather than an appellation....
2016
Frontignan MuscatPays d'Oc
Hegarty Chamans, Les Nonnes, Minervois, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2013
An intriguing blend of Grenache Blanc and Roussanne with 20% Clairette. Light golden colour in the glass, with dry herbal notes on the nose and...
2013
Hegarty ChamansMinervois
Château de Marmorières, Les Pinèdes Blanc, La Clape, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2013
Bourboulenc and Grenache Blanc with Roussanne and Vermentino. Light, fresh herbal notes on the nose; a salty elegant palate with fresh acidity on the finish....
2013
Château de MarmorièresLa Clape
Château la Liquière, Cistus, Faugères, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017
One of the original pioneering estates of Faugères. The inclusion of 10% Bourboulenc in this Roussanne-based blend is unusual. Firm and stony on the nose...
2017
Château la LiquièreFaugères
Château Petit Roubié, Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2015
A soft, rounded nose with good acidity and firm salty notes on the palate. Good depth, maybe from the extra year of bottle age. Picpoul...
2015
Château Petit RoubiéPicpoul de Pinet
Château Rives-Blanques, Occitania Mauzac Blanc, Limoux, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016
91
A rare example of the traditional grape variety of Limoux as a still wine. A fresh nose with some herbal notes, and salty fruit on the palate, with the typical bitter finish of Mauzac. Fine example of an often-decried grape variety.
2016
Château Rives-BlanquesLimoux
Clos Bagatelle, Le Clos de ma Mère, St-Chinian, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016
An intriguing blend of Roussanne, Carignan Blanc, Grenache Blanc and Vermentino from one of the old family estates of St-Chinian. Lightly herbal nose and elegant...
2016
Clos BagatelleSt-Chinian
Domaine de la Réserve d’O, Réserve d’O Blanc, St-Guilhem-le-Désert, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017
From a Terrasses du Larzac estate, this intriguing blend includes Chenin Blanc in equal proportions with Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Fresh savoury notes on the...
2017
Domaine de la Réserve d’OSt-Guilhem-le-Désert
Domaine Gayda, Figure Libre Chenin Blanc, Pays d'Oc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016
91
Quite a rich nose, with the characteristic dry honey of Chenin Blanc. The full palate is rich and honeyed with youthful acidity. Shows the success of Chenin Blanc in the south.
2016
Domaine GaydaPays d'Oc
Domaine Gayda, Freestyle Blanc, Pays d'Oc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016
91
A stylish blend. Nuances of flavour will develop with bottle age. From a pioneering estate in one of the Languedoc’s coolest areas.
2016
Domaine GaydaPays d'Oc
La Croix Chaptal, Clairette du Languedoc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016
Languedoc’s oldest white appellation is in danger of disappearing, but for the efforts of Charles-Walter Pacaud, its one remaining independent grower. A rounded palate and...
2016
La Croix Chaptal
Mas la Chevalière, Peyroli, Pays d'Oc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016
An out-of-the-ordinary Chardonnay from one of Languedoc’s highest and coolest vineyards, in the hills above Lunas – an estate initially developed by Michel Laroche of...
2016
Mas la ChevalièrePays d'Oc
Pierre Cros, Les Costes, Minervois, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016
Pierre Cros is one of the most original winemakers in the Minervois. This intriguing and original blend – largely Grenache Blanc and Vermentino – is...
2016
Pierre CrosMinervois
La Combe St Paul, Calcaires d’Ensérune, Languedoc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017
90
Fragrant fruit on the nose and palate, plus a fresh finish. A successful example of a Roussanne-Vermentino blend from a rising La Clape producer, who sadly doesn’t have Bourboulenc, so can’t make white La Clape.
2017
La Combe St PaulLanguedoc
Domaine le Clos du Bailly, Le B Collection Illustrée, Coteaux du Pont du Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017
Rounded, dry, leafy nose, with firm fruit and good acidity on the palate and a dry, stony finish. This shows how a once decried grape...
2017
Domaine le Clos du BaillyCoteaux du Pont du Gard
Château Martinolles, Vieilles Vignes Chardonnay, Limoux, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2016
89
A convincing Chardonnay from one of the cooler areas of the Languedoc, made by a pioneering Limoux estate that is now part of Domaines Paul Mas. Oak aged, with light golden colour, firm nutty fruit on both nose and palate, alongside good balancing acidity.
2016
Château MartinollesLimoux
Domaine des Lauriers, Viognier, Pays d'Oc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2013
A beautifully expressive example of Viognier, from an estate within the appellation of Picpoul de Pinet. Herbal, peachy fruit on the nose and a ripe,...
2013
Domaine des LauriersPays d'Oc
Château Cicéron, Le Jardin de Vignes Rares de Cicéron Albariño, Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017
A grape variety we’re likely to see more of in Languedoc. Nose is delicate with a perfumed palate, fresh acidity and lightly peachy notes. Nicely...
2017
Château CicéronAude
St Cels, Combe Longue, Alenquer, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2017
A blend of 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Roussanne and 20% Vermentino, making for a nicely rounded nose, with good weight and texture on the palate....
2017
St CelsAlenquer
