Top Clos Vougeot wines from Louis Jadot
Stephen Brook attended the Louis Jadot masterclass at the recent Decanter Fine Wine Encounter in London and tasted vintages of its Clos Vougeot Grand Cru stretching back several decades. See his ratings on the wines.
Like many of the major négociant houses in Burgundy, Louis Jadot has extensive holdings of fine vineyards and thus acts as a domaine as well as a merchant, with eight Grands Crus among the 37 hectares it owns along the Côte d’Or.
Frédéric Barnier presented a splendid vertical tasting from the Clos Vougeot Grand Cru at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter in London.
Barnier took over as technical director in 2012, succeeding the legendary and hugely admired Jacques Lardière on his retirement.
Lardière was keen on biodynamic farming, although Jadot has never made a great song and dance about it.
Article continues below the wines: Find out more about Jadot’s Clos Vougeot vines and winemaking principles.
Jadot Clos Vougeot ratings from this tasting
UK and US stockists given if available. Stockist search aided by Wine-Searcher
About Clos Vougeot
Clos Vougeot is the largest Grand Cru after the Cortons, with almost 51 hectares planted in a single block, but divided among over seventy proprietors.
The Clos differs from other Grands Crus in that its vineyards don’t just occupy the prized mid-slope of the Côte de Nuits, but descend as far as the road between Beaune and Dijon.
That means there are considerable variations in soil type.
Where Jadot’s vines lie
Barnier readily admitted that the Jadot holdings, which amount to a sizeable 2.6 hectares, are partly mid-slope but mostly at the foot of the slope. That lower section has more clay, and the soil is twice as deep as it is at the top of the Clos.
In Barnier’s view, that doesn’t mean the Jadot wine is lower in quality, but it does mean it is slower to evolve and does not become fully expressive until it is at least seven years old.
How Jadot Clos Vougeot is made
Most of the Jadot wines are made in the same way, and Clos Vougeot is no exception.
The grapes are fully destemmed, and fermented with indigenous yeasts. The maceration period is usually prolonged, and fermentation temperatures relatively high, which can also add to the tannic structure when the wine is young.
It is aged for around 18 months in one-third new oak. Very little press wine is blended in, and there is usually no filtration.
Clos Vougeot may not be the most prestigious of Jadot’s Grands Crus, but it is certainly consistent.
More about Louis Jadot
Since 1985, Jadot has been owned by the Kobrand wine and spirits distribution company in the United States, but the firm seems content to let Jadot produce its wines without interference.
The hereditary managers of the company are the Gagey family, now entering its third generation. Jadot also has a welcome tendency to keep its winemakers for decades, ensuring a consistency of style.
Louis Jadot, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2010
A cooler year, 2010 has given wines that are structured and need time to unfurl. The nose is reserved, but there are raspberry and redcurrant aromas lurking. The attack is lean with high acidity, showing precision rather than succulence, as it's still skeletal. There is piercing redcurrant fruit on a palate that is intense and structured but balanced. Very good length suggests its long-term potential.
2010
Louis JadotClos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Louis Jadot, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2015
This is a glorious vintage, so one expects a lot from a grand cru in 2015. This doesn't disappoint. The perfumed nose displays sweet, ripe, raspberry-coulis aromas; it's intense without being jammy, and some oak is in evidence. There's a fine attack, lean and oaky, very concentrated and backed by tannin and by excellent acidity that gives tension and piquancy. There's no over-ripeness, and the finish is long and focussed, with tannic grip. This is for the long haul.
2015
Louis JadotClos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Louis Jadot, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 1969
This was a celebrated vintage, but one might have expected that the wines would have been past their best by now. However, the structure of wines from this part of Clos Vougeot speaks for itself, even after almost half a century. The colour shows hardly any development, and the nose is simply gorgeous, with voluptuous and lavish red-fruits aromas. The palate remains vibrant and spicy, lively and piquant, with good attack and concentration. It may have lost some persistence but it's still in its prime, with a long, zesty redcurrant finish. (NB: Bottle shot does not necessarily correspond to exact vintage)
1969
Louis JadotClos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Louis Jadot, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 1991
1991 was not an easy year, with rain and hail as well as sunshine. Uneven ripening and moderate sugars were the main problems, but skins were thick and the best wines, such as this, are concentrated. The nose is surprisingly fragrant and sweet, with ample raspberry fruit and a fair amount of oak. It is still fresh and limpid with little sign of age - firm tannins and sprightly acidity keep it graceful and charming. It's hardly a blockbuster, but it's balanced and harmonious, and very long. (NB: Bottle shot does not necessarily correspond to exact vintage)
1991
Louis JadotClos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Louis Jadot, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2009
In many ways 2009 is the antithesis to 2010, very warm conditions giving rich, lush wines. The nose is packed with generous raspberry fruit and a touch of mint. It's rich and dense, burly and tannic, and although it lacks the finesse and intensity of 2010 it has power and heft. There's even a slight rusticity as the tannins are less fine-grained than those in 2010 to 2015. Immense concentration means the palate is still sinewy. Long finish, but it lacks a little lift. (NB: Bottle shot does not necessarily correspond to exact vintage)
2009
Louis JadotClos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Louis Jadot, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 1999
This was a vintage that broke the rules, as it delivered a huge crop, even for those who conscientiously green-harvested, yet quality was very high. On the nose there is rich upfront cherry fruit that's exuberant rather than nuanced. The palate is rich and suave, concentrated with ripe tannins and surprising acidity for an abundant year. It is not especially subtle but it's juicy and drinking well, although not that evolved. Perhaps it lacks some structure, but it's going strong and has good length. (NB: Bottle shot does not necessarily correspond to exact vintage)
1999
Louis JadotClos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Louis Jadot, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 1979
A large crop and low acidity resulted in fairly soft wines that were not expected to age well. Moreover, Vosne and Vougeot were hit by hail, which complicated the harvest. The colour is relatively unevolved, although the nose shows delicate leafy and undergrowth tones, very fragrant but decidedly frail. This is a medium-bodied wine, with bright acidity and light tannins. It's fresh, zesty, and surprisingly elegant, with purity and balance rather than depth of flavour. It's long, with a hint of boiled sweets on the finish, and although not tired, is fully ready.
1979
Louis JadotClos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Louis Jadot, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, 2008
Burgundy was on edge through the cool summer as growers feared a wipeout. Then a fine mid-September came to the rescue. Barnier called 2008 'a nightmare until a sunny autumn saved the vintage'. Red fruit aromas soar from the glass, though they are delicate and even a touch confected. The palate is medium-bodied, svelte and silky, yet it's concentrated and its moderate tannins are balanced by lively acidity. Perhaps it's slightly hollow and lacking in flesh, but it's harmonious, understated, and long. (NB: Bottle shot does not necessarily correspond to exact vintage)
2008
Louis JadotClos de Vougeot Grand Cru
