Port 2016: Vintage report and top releases
In 2016, quantities were small, but the best wines are balanced and look set to age for decades, says Richard Mayson, who has picked 25 of the best 2016 Port releases.
‘We have been spoilt for choice.’ These were the words of Johnny Symington at the launch of the 2016 Port vintage in May this year. He was reflecting on the past three harvests in the Douro Valley, which have put the Port shippers in something of a quandary.
The 2015, 2016 and 2017 vintages have all been remarkable in their own way, and it is a function of the manner in which vintage Port is ‘declared’ that the shippers are allowed some foresight and hindsight before making their final decision.
Scroll down for Mayson’s top 25 Vintage Port 2016
It is worth emphasising that Port vintages do not have the regularity of vintages in, say, Bordeaux or Burgundy, which, almost by definition, happen every year. In the Douro, the Port houses only declare years (ie, attach the name of their house to a vintage) when they believe that they have something truly outstanding. As a rule of thumb, these years come about roughly three or four times a decade. In the whole of the 20th century there were only 20 or so fully declared years. So it is quite something when three years, all with vintage potential, come back to back.
As declarations take place in the second spring after the harvest, this gives Port shippers the opportunity to take a look at the preceding as well as the following year. Even with the knowledge that 2016 was looking very good, a handful of leading shippers declared 2015 outright.
For Dirk Niepoort, 2015 was ‘about as good as it gets’. Ramos Pinto, much of whose crop was destroyed by hail in 2016, opted for the 2015. Cockburn, a house with deep roots in the Douro Superior where 2015 was outstanding, decided to declare both years, as did single estate Quinta do Noval. But the majority held back from declaring a so-called ‘classic’ vintage and chose to declare either single-quinta wines or a vintage under a second label (see Port 2015: A buyer’s guide).
Weather report
When it comes to marking out 2016 as a classic vintage, the weather conditions during the growing season are key. The year began with a warm, wet winter. At budburst in March everything looked very advanced, but growth was then curtailed by a cold, wet spring. A poor flowering reduced yields and ultimately made for greater concentration in the wines. The summer months were hot and dry, with a heatwave in August lasting into early September. The hottest day of the year in Pinhão was 6 September, when a temperature of 43˚C was recorded with just 9% humidity.
Sugar readings in mid- to late-August were low due to photosynthesis having been slowed by the heat and drought, but rain on 25 and 26 August helped to put things back on track, especially in the more arid Douro Superior. More welcome rain came on 12 and 13 September and this proved to be the saving grace.
Rich pickings
Anyone who picked too hastily was unlikely to get the balance and freshness that came from harvesting evenly ripened grapes. There are a few wines from 2016 that have achieved the near-impossible feat of being both green and raisiny at the same time. Growers who delayed picking to allow the rain to soak in and the grapes to swell took a risk as the September equinox often brings more bad weather. But when picking resumed around 22 September the sun was shining and continued to shine into October. Crucially the nights were cool. Rain only returned on 13 October, by which time nearly all the grapes had been harvested.
According to Symington, whose family firm declared Cockburn, Dow, Graham and Warre as well as Smith Woodhouse and Quinta do Vesuvio: ‘This was a year when it was vitally important to know your vineyards, which varieties to pick and when.’ It was also the first Port vintage in history when the ‘pick and mix’ from old, inter-planted vineyards has largely been supplanted by varietal picking and often varietal fermentations.
The new planting that took place in the 1980s and 1990s is paying huge dividends and, 30 years on, many of these vineyards are in peak production. Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional are, in that order, the leading grapes to the almost total exclusion of Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), which is being demoted by many growers. The 2016 vintage was also the first year when Sousão and Alicante Bouschet have made a small but significant contribution – two varieties that fall outside the so-called ‘top cinco’ (top five grapes) but are being revived by some of the leading Port shippers.
Plot by plot
So at the launch of these wines earlier this year no one was really comparing 2016 with previous years. Carlos Alves, winemaker for Barros, Burmester, Cálem and Kopke, echoes Symington when he says: ‘We had to make profound use of the knowledge of our grapes, as each variety and each plot of vineyard developed at a different pace. The 2016s are brimming with colour and full of structure, with a profile that’s more concentrated, robust and intense when compared to the 2015s.’
Luís Sottomayor, of Sandeman, Ferreira and Offley, adds: ‘The degrees of complexity, colour and structure make the 2016 wines absolutely exceptional.’ David Guimaraens, winemaker for Taylor, Fonseca and Croft, sums it up when he says: ‘Balance is one of the keynotes of the vintage. The wines are solidly structured with firm, well-integrated tannins and display very fine fruit quality.’
Some wines are alarmingly attractive already, but have the poise and presence to last. I will hazard more than a guess to say that many 2016s will be good to drink relatively early (perhaps from the mid-2020s) but the best have the balance to keep for decades. Quantities are small – in some cases half that declared in 2011 – and sterling prices were up by about 20% to 25% on 2011 (which includes a 15% devaluation over the interim).
So what of 2017? This was the earliest harvest in living memory, with picking all over by the last week of September, the same date that the harvest used to begin back in the 1970s. Yields are tiny but there is no doubt that some wines are exceptional: concentrated, very individual and with good colour. The shippers are always coy at this stage about the prospects of a vintage declaration, but watch this space for news of a more limited declaration early next year.
Richard Mayson is DWWA Chair for Port and Madeira, author of Port and the Douro (fourth edition published by Infinites Ideas) and writes about Port on www.richardmayson.com.
Top 25 Vintage Port 2016 releases:
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Graham's, The Stone Terraces, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Mostly Touriga Nacional from traditional stone-walled terraces at Quinta dos Malvedos, Graham’s flagship estate. Closed with a hint of liquorice and dark chocolate on the nose. Big and dense with bittersweet dark chocolate intensity and broad tannins rising in the mouth to a massive peacock’s tail of a finish. An absolute ‘wow’ of a wine. Made in tiny quantities but fabulous every time I have tasted it – this has to be the wine of the vintage if you can get hold of a bottle.
2016
Graham'sPort
Quinta do Noval, Nacional, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Very deep and opaque, this shows tight-knit berry fruit on the nose. It's demure, firm and foursquare yet suave and seamless on the palate. A fresh streak of acidity with fine-grained, linear tannins leads to a powerful, structured finish. This is seemingly drier than the straight Noval 2016. Just 200 cases declared.
2016
Quinta do NovalPort
Dow's, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Based on Touriga Franca with Touriga Nacional and Sousão. Tight-knit, with firm, rapier-like tannins on the palate – a ramrod all the way through with the opulence and flesh of the fruit on the finish. Fine-grained with great purity and expression. Leaner and much more restrained in style than others: the drier style of Dow works really well in ripe years such as 2016 (as it did in 2011). Outstanding wine for the long term. Total production of 5,480 cases.
2016
Dow'sPort
Graham's, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Super-ripe with an expressive plum and dark chocolate aroma. Rich opulence backed by dark chocolate intensity and spicy tannic grip – big and bold on the finish. Voluptuous with fabulous richness, big and bold on the finish. This is one for the long haul but it’s already very impressive. Production of 6,325 cases.
2016
Graham'sPort
Warre's, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Nearly 50% is made from old field blend vines, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca from the Douro Superior. Very pure violet aromas – already utterly charming with lovely, supple and seamless fruit. Fresh and lithe with fine-grained tannins building in the mouth leading to a peacock’s tail of a finish. A beautiful wine with real poise, definition and great finesse. Don’t be deceived by the early charm, this is a wine that will last. Total production of 4,250 cases.
2016
Warre'sPort
Fonseca, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Closed and withdrawn on the nose at this stage with an underlying dusting of ripe tannins evident. Firm, sweet cassis and berry fruit, with classic dark chocolate intensity at the core, backed by broad yet tight-knit peppery tannins which lead to a big, grippy finish. Very fine with a hugely promising future ahead.
2016
FonsecaPort
Quinta do Noval, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
<p>Youthful and superbly ripe, with incredibly pure notes of blackberry, black cherry and violet. Has it all: acid, density and structure, backed by grippy tannins.</p>
2016
Quinta do NovalPort
Quinta do Vesúvio, Capela do Vesuvio, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Only the third Capela vintage to be released, from 90-year-old vines as well as co-fermented Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Franca and Sousão from neighbouring plots. More sullen and brooding on the nose than the straight Vesuvio wine and it’s deliberately drier in style, although there is a similar underlying ripeness. As well as rich, fleshy cherry and plum fruit notes with dark chocolate intensity, backed by powerful, ripe, broad tannins. Just 3,000 individually numbered bottles produced.
2016
Quinta do VesúvioPort
Cockburn's, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
A Douro Superior blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca supported by Sousão and Alicante Bouschet. Relatively closed and restrained on the nose but with an underlying ripeness with intense dark cassis backed by powerful yet fine-grained tannins, big and broad on the finish. This is a wine for the long haul and excellent value – Cockburn is truly back on form. Total production of 2,450 cases.
2016
Cockburn'sPort
Taylor's, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Dense and heady on the nose with an attractive green, leafy edge. Sweet and pump on the palate with lovely bright cherry and damson fruit – nicely defined but not as big as some. Firm, tight-knit tannins on a long, linear finish which shows off the lovely purity of fruit. 6,500 cases in total.
2016
Taylor'sPort
Quinta do Vesúvio, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Lovely warm country aromas, this is ripe, open and very full in style. Super-ripe cassis flavours, broad and fleshy, backed by weighty tannins combined with lovely definition. Finishes with a powerful flourish, very impressive. Made using a relatively high proportion of Alicante Bouschet (17%) alongside Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. 1,220 cases produced in total.
2016
Quinta do VesúvioPort
Offley, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
The blend includes 45% Touriga Franca and 45% Touriga Nacional, mostly form the Torto Valley. Closed on the nose; very tight-knit. Really expressive fresh berry fruit and minty ripeness on the palate backed by firm, peppery tannins and leading to spicy, dusty, tannic finish. Quite powerful, this a lovely wine for the mid- to long-term – it could be the bargain of the vintage.
2016
OffleyPort
Sandeman, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Closed and dense on the nose, then the palate has a touch of tar. Muscular and still tight knit with the powerful spicy, dry tannins that have become the hallmark of Sandeman in recent vintages. Made from 40% of both Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca with support from Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão and Sousão. Serious Port – not as overwhelmingly extracted as some previous years and well balanced for a long future.
2016
SandemanPort
Smith Woodhouse, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Entirely from Quinta da Madelena in the Torto Valley, primarily a field blend of old vines that were picked late. Open, fragrant, ripe cherry and floral fruit aromas with a touch or tar-like intensity. Well defined berry fruit on the palate with fine-grained, peppery tannins leading to a long sinewy finish. Middle-to-long distance wine, leaner in style than others from the Symington Estates.
2016
Smith WoodhousePort
Croft, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Based on fruit from Quinta da Roeda at Pinhão. Open, rich plummy aromas with minty ripeness and a touch of hedgerow too. The palate is very much in the recent Croft mould, which it describes as Rubenesque: soft, plump and fleshy with voluptuous fruit backed by ripe tannins that blossom on the finish. Approachable early.
2016
CroftPort
Ferreira, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
From Quinta do Porto and Quinta do Caêdo in the Cima Corgo, this is made from 45% Touriga Franca backed up by Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Sousão. Closed at the outset but a touch floral with lovely pure ripe bramble fruit underneath. Tight knit with seamless fine-grained tannins on the finish. Great promise for the medium to long term.
2016
FerreiraPort
Barros, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
A blend of 40% Touriga Franca, 30% Tinta Roriz, 20% Touriga Nacional and 10% Tinta Barroca. Ripe plum and berry fruit on the nose and palate with an austere green edge emerging. Plump in style, backed by ripe tannins and a stocky finish. Good value to enjoy over the medium to long term.
2016
BarrosPort
Quinta da Romaneira, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
From a huge, predominantly south-facing estate, using a blend of older parcels of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca grown at the heart of the property. Open, exotic and beautifully fragrant, full of mint and violets; lovely purity of fruit backed by fine-grained tannins. Not especially big but well balanced with a firm, spicy finish. A lovely wine for the early to mid term.
2016
Quinta da RomaneiraPort
Quinta de Roriz, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
The blend includes grapes from a 30-year-old Touriga Nacional vineyard as well as Sousão from the upper part of the estate, picked early. This isn't giving much away on the nose, but it is soft and sweet on the palate, showing nicely defined summer fruit with a touch of dark chocolate concentration and refined, peppery tannins. A midweight wine to drink over the medium term.
2016
Quinta de RorizPort
Churchill's, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Big, ripe, heady, spirity and rather jammy aromas. Bold, verging on overripe, yet with a green edge. Rich, full and fleshy in style; the fruit is hefty and jammy with big ripe tannins that are rich and satisfying but not showing a great deal of finesse at this stage. 2,000 cases in total.
2016
Churchill'sPort
C Da Silva, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
<p>Quite restrained aromas with lovely purity of fruit emerging both on the nose and in the mouth. Well-defined, fresh and ripe cherry, backed by firm and slightly rustic tannins. Quite loose knit now but should develop well over the medium term.</p>
2016
C Da SilvaPort
Niepoort, Bioma Vinha Velha, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
In 2016 Niepoort made Bioma, an organic Port from old vines grown on a single estate. It is still a bit disjointed on the nose, needing time to knit together, but still very charming. The palate is soft and fleshy, initially with a hint of liquorice but quite light overall with rather herbaceous tannins.
2016
NiepoortPort
Kopke, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
Made from 60% of old field blend vines and 40% Touriga Nacional. Fragrant, open, brambly fruit though seemingly quite loose knit. On the palate it is soft and sweet, initially with some firm tannins building. Light- to middle-weight, with a fresh berry fruit finish where the alcohol shows through.
2016
KopkePort
Quinta Vale D Maria, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
From a well placed single estate in the Torto Valley, this is ripe with balanced berry fruit and a soft cassis character, backed by firm tannins that rise in the mouth. An overall middleweight Port with slight green edge on the finish.
2016
Quinta Vale D MariaPort
Burmester, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2016
An even blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca from Quinta do Arnozelo in the Douro Superior. Ripe and exuberant on the nose but then rather medicinal berry fruit on the palate, backed by firm tannins that build to the finish. Rather disjointed at this stage but should last through mid-term drinking.
2016
BurmesterPort
