Willow Creek 2021: Report and top-scoring wines
Willow Creek in one of the crown jewels in West Paso Robles. Brianne Cohen selects her top wines from the region after completing her Paso Robles 2021 vintage report.
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Just south of the sub-AVA Adelaida District lies Willow Creek, a high rainfall, high-elevation sub-district with similar properties. J Dusi Wines, a legacy Paso producer, has been farming the Paper Street vineyard, which straddles Adelaida and Willow Creek, for close to 10 years. The vineyard is planted to head-trained Zinfandel with cuttings from the Dusis’ century-old Dusi vineyard.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Willow Creek 2021 wines
‘It’s tasting great. I’m really enjoying the fruit aspect that’s coming out of it – almost like a darker, shadowy fruit, yet bright,’ says Janell Dusi, owner-winemaker at J Dusi.
‘Because of the drought, the fruit is front and centre and focused.’ As in the Paso region as a whole, drought and coolness were the biggest factors of the 2021 vintage. ‘Cool’ is a relative term in Paso, referring to no major or extended heat spikes, as were seen in 2020 (two weeks or more of temperatures above 40°C).
Paso Robles: know your vintages
2020: 3/5
A difficult vintage from all sides, including drought, dramatic heat spikes and smoke from nearby wildfires, coupled with pandemic-related stressors, including facemasks. Widely mixed quality, depending on the producer. Not all producers made wine due to smoke taint or potential smoke taint issues from wildfires.
2019: 5/5
An excellent vintage on all accounts. The 2019 growing season and the harvest were ‘perfect’, with many reports of it being ‘one of the best’ and ‘favourite’ vintages in recent history. The wines are dense, structured, powerful and will be very long-lived.
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2018: 4.5/5
A desirable, long growing season crafting wines that are classic, structured and intense in fruit. Wines with firm tannins and ageing potential. A strong, powerhouse vintage.
2017: 4/5
A hot and wet vintage with record- setting rain in January. A warm summer with a late August heat spike that slowed maturing, causing a later start to harvest for many. The wines are drinkable earlier with freshness and lifted fruit.
Cohen’s pick from Willow Creek 2021: the sub-appellation’s standout wines
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Saxum Vineyards, James Berry Vineyard White, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

The white sibling from the celebrated James Berry vineyard. A complex nose of ripe pears, citrus blossoms and an exotic saffron note. Mouthwatering acidity and waxiness up front, green fruits in the middle and lactic notes rounding up the rear. Complexity shines through from the Grenache Blanc and Roussanne blended with Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. Demands food for supreme enjoyment. To be released in spring 2024.
2021
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Saxum VineyardsPaso Robles
Clos Solène, Hommage Blanc, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

A lower alcohol – which in Paso means less than 14% – white blend almost transporting you to the Rhône Valley. A nose of white flowers, peaches and sweet orange oil. Asian pears, stone fruit and honeysuckle on the palate. Weighty yet fresh, this is a brilliant wine best enjoyed with a grilled shrimp salad.
2021
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Clos SolènePaso Robles
Saxum Vineyards, James Berry Vineyard Red, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

The flagship Grenache-based estate red from this esteemed Paso producer. The nose opens with plumminess, cherry notes, and fruit purity that shines through to the palate: bold, showy, serving dark fruits, a liquorice note and sweet toasted oak. The James Berry vineyard showcases potential realised in Paso Robles with expertly balanced structural elements. To be released in spring 2024.
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Saxum VineyardsPaso Robles
Booker Vineyard, Fracture, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

The Booker flagship wine shows pronounced aromatic intensity, leading with black fruits, cured meats and graphite notes, a herbaceous menthol note on the palate and moderate tannins. The wine is broad-shouldered and assertive, with no question of its ageability. Acid, tannins, alcohol level and fruit concentration signify a long life ahead in the bottle.
2021
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Booker VineyardPaso Robles
L'Aventure, Estate Cuvée, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

The L’Aventure vineyard is one of the sources of quality fruit in Paso, and this wine is no exception. Aromas of dark, jammy fruit dominate, and the fruit on the palate is equally assertive, with healthy doses of cedar and spice. Tannins are muscular and powdery, which will aid in the ageability – a full-bodied, authoritative Paso wine with quality at the foundation.
2021
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L'AventurePaso Robles
Saxum Vineyards, G2 Vineyard, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

Saxum has been working with the G2 vineyard since 2014, and this Grenache-dominant 2021 embodies the phrase ‘iron fist in a velvet glove’, in its restraint combined with power. Dark cherries on a shy nose, hints of cedar and toastiness. The palate is a well-integrated study on precision and interplay: dark currant and plum fruits, cinnamon, black pepper, completed by sweet oak spice.
2021
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Saxum VineyardsPaso Robles
L'Aventure, Côte a Côte, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

The flagship GSM blend from quality producer L’Aventure. This is the more 'delicate' offering in the producer's portfolio – a word not often used in Paso. Red and black fruits interplay on the nose. The palate is chewy and textured with flavours of red fruits, baking spices and faint floral notes. A lengthy finish rounds out this beauty.
2021
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L'AventurePaso Robles
Booker Vineyard, Oublié, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

A Grenache-based blend from the Rhône-focused estate owned by Eric and Lisa Jensen. Red and black fruits on the nose, peppery and heaps of spice. The palate is rich, fruit-driven, smooth and luscious. A big, rich Paso Rhône blend done right. The most food-friendly wine of the Booker portfolio that would easily pair with many dishes.
2021
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Booker VineyardPaso Robles
Caliza Winery, Kän-krēt Grenache, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

Kän'krēt' is a phonetic pronunciation for concrete. The intention with ageing in concrete is to highlight the purity of the Grenache fruit, which this wine does on both the nose and the palate with bright red fruit, specifically notes of cherry. Minerality and spice prevail, as does a freshness throughout due to its marked acidity. Drink this wine now, but it will improve and evolve with ageing.
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Caliza WineryPaso Robles
J Dusi, Paper Street Zinfandel, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

Another stunner from the Dusi family, fourth-generation Paso growers, this time from their more recent project, the high-elevation Paper Street vineyard. A lighter and brighter Zinfandel expression than the Dusi Vineyard, but still squarely California Zinfandel. Red fruits, blood orange notes, black pepper and baking spices with an acid backbone and a lengthy finish.
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J DusiPaso Robles
L'Aventure, Optimus, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

Sleek and straight, I love the texture here, smooth and so filling in a caressing kind of way. Tannins are lovely, soft and subtle, and this has a delicate sweetness with some savoury touches and bright acidity giving tang. It's lean and straight, gorgeous streamlined elements, nothing too massy or plump, but keeps the intensity of flavour al the way and ends still with lift and bite and juice. I like this a lot, it's not trying too hard to overplease. Glossy and shiny. Floral and finessed.
2021
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L'AventurePaso Robles
Turtle Rock, Claude's Cuvee, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

Based in Tin City, an urban tasting zone/makers market, Turtle Creek sources grapes from the most esteemed vineyards in Paso. This Syrah-dominant blend leads with black fruit notes, meatiness and cracked black pepper on the nose. The tannins are at the forefront, but will integrate with time. The fruit is ripe, compote style, and in line with the other structural elements. Full-bodied with a lengthy finish. A barrel sample was tasted.
2021
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Turtle RockPaso Robles
Bodega de Edgar, Gran Reserva, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

A stunner from this Mexican-American-owned Paso winery with fruit from Dusi-owned Paper Street vineyard. Pure red fruit on the nose, spice notes of clove and cinnamon, echoed on the palate with mocha notes emerging at the back, recalling its Rioja inspiration. Fresh, balanced and approachable. To be released in August 2024.
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Bodega de EdgarPaso Robles
Turtle Rock, G2 Syrah, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

Barrel sample from the famed G2 Vineyard, the nose leads with black fruits, wood spice and black pepper. The palate is equally as deep, dark and masculine, with the addition of black olive and roasted meat. An example of the strength and power that can come out of Paso.
2021
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Turtle RockPaso Robles
Booker Vineyard, Vertigo, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

A GSM blend with darker dashes of Petite Sirah and Tannat. The nose brings blue and blackberries, plus dried herbs and earth. The palate confirms the nose with dark fruit intensity and broodiness, leading into a lengthy finish.
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Booker VineyardPaso Robles
Ledge Vineyards, Estate Grenache Blend, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

From the Adams Ranch Vineyard, pure cranberries and raspberries, plus ample dried potpourri notes of cinnamon sticks, baking spices and cloves. Prevalent tannins allow this wine to shine with food.
2021
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Ledge VineyardsPaso Robles
Linne Calodo, Nemesis, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

A Rhône-style blend from one of the blend originators in Paso. Matt Trevisan considers varietal wines his nemesis, hence the name of this wine. Black fruit, including plums and cherries on the nose, the palate gives ripe, sun-kissed dark fruits, plus a healthy dose of earthiness and spice. Will evolve and improve with age.
2021
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Linne CalodoPaso Robles
LXV, Meso Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

The nose of black fruits, cedar and tobacco points squarely at Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate showcases dark black fruit and well-integrated tannins for a surprisingly silky smooth finish. Will gracefully age due to tannin structure and fruit concentration.
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LXVPaso Robles
Turtle Rock, Maturin, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

A Graciano-based blend with fruit sourced from Saxum’s James Berry Vineyard. The nose leads with sweet red fruit notes and baking spices. Some time in bottle is recommended as the tannins need time to soften. Tasted from barrel.
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Turtle RockPaso Robles
Villa Creek, High Road, Paso Robles, Willow Creek, California, USA, 2021

Blackberries, freshly cracked black pepper and baking spices on the nose. The palate is tannin driven, which will integrate over time, as the wine was just released at the time of tasting. Fruit sourced from the esteemed James Berry Vineyard.
2021
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Villa CreekPaso Robles
Brianne Cohen is a Los Angeles-based event producer, wine educator, and wine writer. She now offers both in-person (and virtual) wine-tasting experiences for her corporate clients while highlighting diverse (i.e. Black, BIPOC, female, and LGBT) owned wineries. Brianne regularly judges at international wine competitions, including the International Wine Challenge (IWC) in London and holds the WSET Diploma certificate. She writes on her own blog and for outlets such as Decanter, Monarch Wine, Matador, SommTV, and Edible. She also holds a Master of Business Administration from Loyola Marymount University.
