2005 Bordeaux campaign a ‘disaster’ in Japan
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As buyers await the first price releases for the 2006 Bordeaux en primeur campaign, one of Japan’s leading wine merchants has said that their 2005 campaign was a ‘disaster’, and that they are still sitting on large stocks of wine.
Tadashi Yasuda of Enoteca, Japan’s largest buyer of en primeurs, told decanter.com this week that 2005 suffered from ‘the double punch’ of exchange rates and overly high wine prices. ‘A bottle of Chateau Lafite 2004 cost 17,000 Yen (GBP 71), while for 2005 it was 69,000 Yen (GBP 291). Even with our clients, the number of people who can buy at those prices is very limited. The Japanese love Bordeaux wines, but they were priced out of the market’.
Yasuda is less than optimistic about prices for the 2006 vintage. ‘The quality was good to excellent for some chateaux, but not homogenous. I had many discussions with owners and negociants while in Bordeaux, and I got the feeling that with the new markets like China and the Middle East, Japan, the UK and other traditional markets are less important to them.
‘Prices may come down a little perhaps but chateaux owners are very confident after last year’s campaign, and many want to keep the prices high. I’m not expecting much movement from last year.’
Despite Japan being the most developed market in Asia for fine wines, it is not seen as a large market for the en primeurs. Ernie Singer of Japanese wine merchant Millesimes cited the lack of tax breaks for wine investing, the lack of room for storage and the relative lack of sophistication of the market.
Japanese wine consumption rose 5.5% in 2005 to 2.4 litres per person, reversing the marginal downward trend of the past five years. 61.5% of that consumption is of imported wines.
Written by Jane Anson
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Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
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