Fatal fungus threatens vines across southwest France
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A fatal fungus that attacks vines is becoming increasingly prevalent across the wine regions of Bordeaux, Gascony and the Charente, it has emerged.
The disease, a fungus called Esca (known more commonly as vine measles, or vine cancer), attacks the woody parts of the vine, eventually killing the entire plant.
Very little is known about its origin, how it spreads, or its likely progression. Although it affects vines all over the world, this year there has been a sharp rise in reported cases of Esca in southwest France.
There are calls for an agricultural emergency to be declared in the area, and demands for state aid to replant the affected vines.
‘You can literally see the vines withering before your eyes,’ a winemaker in Gascony told a local newspaper. ‘We are going to need to pull up and replant vines that are scarcely 15 years old.’
Auch, a large town in the area, is due to hold a demonstration on September 15, demanding government assistance.
Winegrowers in Bordeaux, Cognac and Champagne have also reported widespread problems, with some estimating the disease is affecting up to 20% of all vines in France.
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Chris Foss, senior wine lecturer at Plumpton agricultural College in the UK, told decanter.com the disease was almost unstoppable.
‘The disease can be treated with sodium arsenite, but the product has been banned since 2001 because of public health concerns,’ he said. ‘All wood diseases are an absolute nightmare because they are so difficult to treat, and they seem to be getting more prevalent.’
Written by Jane Anson in Bordeaux
Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
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