Mar de Frades launches Atlantic Godello from Rías Baixas
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Leading Albariño producer, Mar de Frades, has launched its first 100% Godello wine from coastal vineyards in Rías Baixas, Galicia, in the northwest corner of Spain.
‘I decided to make a Godello wine because it’s an indigenous variety from Galicia, but there was little known about growing this variety next to the Atlantic,’ said winemaker Paula Fandiño.
‘Galician Godellos are produced inland, not by the sea, so I thought it would be something special.’
Scroll down for the tasting note and score of the wine
Traditionally, Albariño vineyards dominate the area, with the variety accounting for 96% of all plantings – though small quantities of other native grapes, including Treixadura, Loureiro, Torrontes and Godello are also planted throughout Rías Baixas.
Fandiño is known for her experimental approach to winemaking – including extended periods of lees ageing for her Albariños, using the Ganimede Method of cold maceration and introducing the first granite vats to the region – and saw the creation of a Godello wine as another chance to innovate.
‘Godello is a very delicate white variety, therefore, the fermentation must be at a higher temperature than for Albariño, to get fresh and more tropical flavours,’ she said.
‘The big difference compared to our Mar de Frades Albariño is the work on lees, with a long process of batonnage for six months. Then, we keep the wine on its lees for another eight months and finally it spends two months in French oak barrels before bottling. After bottling, we keep the wine for six months in the winery before releasing it.’
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Launched in the distinctive Mar de Frades blue glass bottle, the inaugural 2016 vintage of Godello is already something of a rarity. Extremely limited production means that only 2,100 bottles are available in the UK and Spain.
The 2017 and 2018 Mar de Frades Godellos have already been planned for release, though Fandiño is unsure whether she has started a new trend.
‘Godello is not as popular as Albariño, and is usually blended with other local white grapes. We are the first to launch this Atlantic Godello, but maybe in the future we will see some others!’
Mar de Frades, Godello, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2016

93
Experimental winemaker Paula Fandiño is best-known for her Albariños but this showcases her skill with another white grape. Something of a rarity, this is the first-ever 100% Godello from Rías Baixas, with only 2,100 bottles made. The striking nose is marked with membrillo (quince paste) and fresh citrus. There's more membrillo on the palate, plus apricot, fresh-cut lemon and some gentle coconut notes from lees stirring in French oak, all set against crisp acidity. A clean mineral streak runs throughout, with a fresh and persistent saltiness.
2016
Rías BaixasSpain
Mar de Frades

Julie Sheppard joined the Decanter team in 2018 and is Regional Editor for Australia, New Zealand and South Africa & Spirits Editor.
Before Decanter, she worked for a range of drinks and food titles, including as managing editor of both Imbibe and Square Meal, associate publisher of The Drinks Business, senior editor of the Octopus Publishing Group and Supplements editor of Harpers Wine & Spirit. As a contributor, she has over 20 years’ experience writing about food, drink and travel for a wide range of publications, including Condé Nast Traveller, Delicious, Waitrose Kitchen, Waitrose Drinks, Time Out and national newspapers including The Telegraph and The Sunday Times.
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