10 top Washington Syrah
Patrick Comiskey picks his 10 top Syrahs from Washington State, where the climate means the wines retain a fresh acidity and firm contour.
After wandering the US viticultural wilderness for nearly 40 years, often mired in a homogeneous stylistic rut, Syrah may have finally found footing in Washington State’s Columbia Valley and its many sub-appellations.
The growing season here is kind to this changeling variety: its northern latitude allows for extra hours of sunshine, the heat ensuring full ripeness, and an autumn that is characterised by milder days and cold nights, such that, if desired, the best wines can retain a fresh acidity and firm contour that effortlessly averts flab and jam.
Patrick’s top Washington Syrahs:
The state’s first Syrah Red Willow, planted by Mike Sauer in 1986 in the Yakima Valley, continues to produce one of the coolest, most elegant expressions of the grape. Since Columbia Winery relinquished its hold on all its fruit, the list of wineries with Red Willow Syrah contracts reads like a Who’s Who of Washington’s leading Syrah producers, with names including Avennia, Betz Family, Gramercy, Efeste, Owen Roe, Andrew Rich and Mark Ryan.
Red Willow may be Syrah’s historic home in Washington, but its spiritual home at present is unquestionably The Rocks District of Milton- Freewater in the Walla Walla Valley (in Oregon, in fact). This newly minted AVA lies on an ancient branch of the Walla Walla river and is characterised by dramatic, Châteauneuf-style basalt cobblestones, yielding a spicy, almost feral intensity that is among the most exotic flavour profiles for any red wine in the United States. Credit goes to a Frenchman, Christophe Baron, of Cayuse Winery, for discovering this remarkable patch of land; he now has five parcels here.
After two remarkably cool El Niño vintages, 2010 and 2011, the state’s last three have reflected the warmth and unmitigated sunshine of a more typical growing season. Still, those cooler years instilled in some winemakers a taste for more elegance: look for Gramercy, Reynvaan, Maison Bleue and àMaurice to reflect this aesthetic direction.
Patrick Comiskey is a senior correspondent for Wine & Spirits magazine, where he is the critic for Washington wines.
Cayuse Vineyards, Cailloux Vineyard Syrah, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Oregon, USA, 2011
94
The cooler vintage lends contour to this wild, spicy red, hedonically scented (smoke, mace, blood), full and dark-flavoured.
2011
Cayuse VineyardsColumbia Valley
Gramercy Cellars, Syrah, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Oregon, USA, 2012
93
Exotic mocha and olive scents suggest The Rocks District fruit. Full and elegant, dusty tannins.
2012
Gramercy CellarsColumbia Valley
Reynvaan, In the Rocks Syrah, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Oregon, USA, 2012
93
Classic Rocks aromatic profile of olive, mocha and bacon fat,while the ripe palate is plush yet peppery.
2012
ReynvaanColumbia Valley
Amavi, Walla Walla Valley 2012, Les Collines Syrah, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Oregon, USA, 2012
92
From an iconic Walla Walla vineyard, known for Syrah’s feral side. Smells of lamb jerky and cassis. The texture is firm and angular.
2012
AmaviColumbia Valley
Mark Ryan, Red Willow Vineyard, Lost Soul Syrah, Yakima Valley, Washington, USA, 2012
92
Red Willow’s basaltic thrust drives this wine, a dark, tarry minerality garnishing the darkest of blackberry fruit.
2012
Mark RyanYakima Valley
àMaurice, Fred, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Oregon, USA, 2012
91
From upland estate fruit, violet florals adorn dark, inky fruit. Youthful and angular.
2012
àMauriceColumbia Valley
Betz Family, Red Mountain, La Côte Rousse, Columbia Valley, Oregon, USA, 2012
91
Dark and spicy, black cherry fruit grounded by a volcanic mineral intensity.
2012
Betz FamilyColumbia Valley
Gramercy Cellars, Lagniappe, Columbia Valley, Oregon, USA, 2012
90
In 2012 Lagniappe is mostly Red Willow fruit. Inky palate adorned by cluster spice, with a granular grip of tannin.
2012
Gramercy CellarsColumbia Valley
L'Ecole No 41, Columbia Valley, Washington, USA, 2012
90
Black olive and tobacco scents lend a lovely wildness to the red cherry fruit.
2012
L'Ecole No 41Columbia Valley
Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley, Washington, USA, 2012
88
A well-priced introduction to Washington, with mocha scents adorning dark berry flavours.
2012
Chateau Ste MichelleColumbia Valley
