Australia 10 whites
Australia 10 whites
(Image credit: Australia 10 whites)

Australia's white wine scene is a hotbed of quality, and very much on the up. The country's foremost wine communicator, Huon Hooke surveys new and established wineries, large and small, to name his top estates. As published in the Decanter July 2012 issue.

Cullen

Margaret River, Western Australia

Vanya Cullen (pictured) and her deputy Trevor Kent push this exemplary biodynamic winery to ever-higher levels. The Chardonnay especially has acquired another level of complexity and charm in recent years. Wild primary and malolactic ferments, earlier picking and lower alcohols, sensitive usage and choice of oak and shunning of acid addition are all ingredients in the mix. The flagship white is the magnificent Kevin John Chardonnay, a true grand cru Burgundy impersonator, while the Cullen Vineyard Sauvignon-Semillon is also superb, and ages into something miraculous after 10 years. The simpler, more fruit-driven Mangan Vineyard Sauvignon-Semillon is also very good.

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(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Cullen, Kevin John Chardonnay 2009

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(Image credit: Credit Unknown)

Tangy, edgy and lean, with a firmness and angularity. Chablis-esque: chalky, honeyed, complex and layered. Also tight, with frisky acidity. A magical wine of line, length and steely purity. 19pts/20

Price: £65 Bennett’s, Fortnum & Mason, Philglas & Swiggott, Secret Cellar, Swig, Vineking, WoodWinters

Drink: 2012–2017

Alc: 13.5%

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Huon Hooke
Huon Hooke
Decanter Magazine, Wine & Food Writer

Huon Hooke is Australia’s leading independent wine writer, based in Sydney, who also judges wine competitions and educates on wine. A journalist first and wine professional second, he has tertiary qualifications in both fields, and has also worked in wineries and wine retailing. He contributes to Gourmet Traveller Wine, the Sydney Morning Herald’s ‘Good Food’ section, ‘Good Weekend’ magazine and Decanter, among other publications. He was co-author of The Penguin Good Australian Wine Guide for 14 years until 2007. In 2012 he launched the web and phone based app, Huonhooke.com. He has won 11 awards for wine writing since 1984 and has published 19 books on wine, including a biography of Penfolds Grange creator Max Schubert.