Australia's white wine scene is a hotbed of quality, and very much on the up. The country's foremost wine communicator, Huon Hooke surveys new and established wineries, large and small, to name his top estates. As published in the Decanter July 2012 issue.
Clare Valley, South Australia
Jeffrey Grosset (pictured) is Australia’s Mr Riesling. This fastidious grapegrower and winemaker produces two sensational dry Clare Valley Rieslings each year, a fuller Watervale wine now labelled Springvale – from calcareous soil – and the more nervy Polish Hill, grown on the slate soils of the higher-altitude Polish Hill River sub-region. In 2010 these were joined by a wine labelled Off-Dry, which is barely off-dry and crafted in the same restrained, refined, delicate style as the other two. It’s destined to be another classic. Occasionally, in suitable seasons such as 2011, there’s a rivetingly powerful Noble Riesling made from botrytised grapes. Grosset’s Piccadilly is a superbly taut, ageworthy Chardonnay from that Adelaide Hills locality, and his Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend deftly combines Clare Semillon with Adelaide Hills Sauvignon. Mesh, of course, is his superb Eden Valley adventure, jointly produced with Yalumba..
Grosset, Off-Dry Riesling 2011
Fresh, fragrant, young-wine aroma of floral notes and green apples. A pristine wine, very delicate and fragrant in the mouth, with the barest minimum of sweetness. Fine and long, taut and balanced; a lovely wine with a big future.18.5pts/20
Price: £17.30–£20 Noel Young, Selfridges, Slurp, Swig, Vineking