My seven favourite producers in Cairanne
Ten years on from its promotion to cru and with the wines improving all the time, Matt Walls introduces seven of his favourite producers in Cairanne.
How do you measure the greatness of any given wine appellation? One way might be to count the number of outstanding producers.
If using this method in the Southern Rhône, Cairanne would come out looking particularly strong.
Cairanne was promoted to Cru status in 2016, and there was never any doubt that it deserved this commendation. Ten years on, its wines are even better.
The Cairanne style is all about balance, elegance and consistency. Its reds have the characteristic generosity of the east bank, but more restrained than punchier appellations such as Rasteau and Châteauneuf.
Its whites too inhabit a comfortable middle ground. They have affable confidence rather than oaky swagger; they are proudly Southern Rhône, and with drinkability.
Both colours are approachable on release, and both can develop beguiling complexity with a decade (or more) in bottle.
And they’re not expensive; on the contrary, Cairanne offers some of the best value drinking in the Rhône Valley.
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As in all appellations, the producer is what counts. Below is a list of some personal favourites.
If you can’t find them, there are countless other excellent producers to choose from, including Domaine Brusset, Domaine les Hautes Cances, Domaine Rabasse Charavin and La Cave de Cairanne.
Domaine Alary
Denis and Jean-Etienne Alary
The Alary family settled in Cairanne in 1692, and has been cultivating land here ever since.
It was Denis Alary who helped spearhead the passage to Cru in 2016; he has since passed the baton to his son Jean-Etienne.
They make numerous Cairanne cuvées, all with a unique raison d’être, and they excel at both white and red. Their white Estévenas is deep and rich but not heavy.
Of their reds, their Jean de Verde is the essence of Cairanne Grenache, and their red Estévenas is highly distinctive, brimming with mocha and black olive, thanks to its old vine Syrah.
Their 2016 Estévenas red was drinking brilliantly this year, with another decade ahead of it.
Domaine Richaud
Marcel Richaud
If Domaine Alary embodies classical Cairanne, then Richaud personifies its wild side.
Richaud might not be the most consistently reliable estate in the appellation, but when the wines are on form, they’re unbeatable.
Don’t let the simple labels fool you: these can be highly complex wines.
Marcel Richaud has largely passed on the estate to his children Thomas and Claire now. They work organically, add nothing to their wines, or take anything away; yields are very low.
Even their cuvée classique is fresh, zesty and exuberant; their 50% Mourvèdre L’Ebresecade can be phenomenal; powerful and concentrated but crackling with energy. Their white is also delicious, rich or fresh, as the vintage dictates.
Les Chemins de Sève
What Loïc Massart has achieved since establishing his estate in 2013 is nothing short of extraordinary.
In a matter of 13 years, Les Chemins de Sève is among the top names of the appellation. The winery might be new but their vines are up to 85 years old.
He makes two red Cairannes. Métamorphose is 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, aged in concrete for a round, approachable, juicy but structured style.
Apanage is 50/50 Grenache/Syrah, aged in recent barrels for a darker, more intense expression.
His white Cairanne Opale (40% Roussanne, 30% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc) is also highly accomplished. His 2014 Opale and 2015 Apanage, some of his first attempts, were still showing very well in 2026.
Domaine des Amadieu
Yves-Jean Houser
Yves-Jean Houser, took over this 7ha estate in 2007 and promptly converted it to biodynamics.
His style is uncompromising – authentic wines with no make-up that offer a clear-eyed vision of this terroir.
His whites are broad, rich, supported by mineral freshness rather than acidity. I prefer his vibrant and invigorating reds.
Garrigues is juicily delicious, Vieilles Vignes more structured, made for the dinner table. His first vintage, 2007, was still holding up well in 2026, complex and compelling.
Clos Romane
Harvest at Clos Romane
Clos Romane is a fourth generation organic family estate in the heart of the village, their 30ha of vineyards are dotted around various soils and appellations.
Their wines have been improving from year to year and are now reliably excellent. The style here is all about richness and power, in both colours.
Domaine A. Berthet-Rayne
The Berthet-Rayne family has been making wine in Cairanne since 1880. Current owner André is the fourth generation, his daughter Alexandra joined the estate in 2017.
Their reds are very good, especially their Castel Mireio, which is particularly refined.
A generous 20% of their estate is planted with whites however, a house speciality; their Castel Mireio white is often among the best in the appellation.
Domaine Oratoire Saint-Martin
There were two branches of the Alary family who were instrumental in the history of wine in Cairanne. Domaine Alary is home to one; Domaine Oratoire Saint-Martin was, until recently, home to the other.
This latter estate was run by tenth generation brothers Frédéric and François Alary until 2020, when they sold the estate to the Abeille-Fabre family of Château Mont-Redon in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
The estate is still being run biodynamically. Red wines are medium-bodied in style and can be enjoyable in good vintages.
Their strength here is their whites (which was always the case) which, in vintages like 2024, can be among the finest in the Southern Rhône.
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Matt Walls is an award-winning freelance wine writer and consultant, contributing regular articles to various print and online titles including Decanter, where he is a contributing editor. He has particular interest in the Rhône Valley; he is chair of the Rhône panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards and is the owner of travel and events company www.rhoneroots.com.