Bordeaux 2006 wines to drink now – Jane Anson
Nearly 10 years on from the vintage, Jane Anson picks six wines from Bordeaux 2006 that are ready to enjoy now...
An interesting year to be following at this critical juncture, as Bordeaux 2006 wines have developed a reputation for being fairly unloveable over the past decade.
Scroll down to see the wines
First, a reminder of what the winemakers had to work with. The weather during the Bordeaux 2006 growing season blew hot and cold. A strong heat in July and September was sliced up by a cool August and a stormy mid-September, which saw botrytis spores blooming in select spots around the region. Inevitably this meant a race to harvest in the unlucky areas.
Overall, Merlot and clay, and Cabernet Sauvignon on the best gravels resisted well, and this was yet another year where money talked.
Yields overall are usually lower than 2005 (with a few notable exceptions such as Ormes de Pez), as winemakers had to be very selective with the grapes they used. The best wines are concentrated, with balanced acidity and complex aromatics, but many had hard tannins and were unlovely at first showings during en primeur in 2007, and again in the first five years of opening.
At the 10 year mark, the best reds are still deeply coloured, with fresh yet complex fruit expression and high aromatics. Bordeaux 2006 is certainly a vintage to age, with all the old school meaning of that term (ie not approachable young!). Early tastings showed them to be less evenly successful than the 2005s, with some exceptionally bright spots, and many wines far exceeded expectations.
However, here’s a selection of Bordeaux 2006 wines that deserve to be brought out of the cellar.
Bordeaux 2006 wines for drinking now:
Jane tasted theses wines at London merchant Bordeaux Index’s 10-year-on tasting in January 2016.
Château Mouton Rothschild, Le Petit Mouton, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France, 2006
That classic Petit Mouton smokiness on the nose, cigar swirls and dark bitter chocolate, enticing and well judged. This can easily take another five years...
2006
Château Mouton RothschildPauillac
Château Nénin, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2006
90
The fruit is fairly open on the first nose, get a touch of rusticity, we are less buttoned up than in some of the more polished wines, letting a little more natural feeling in. Overall this is a pretty expression of black fruits, and the tannins are a little down and dirty. Enjoyable, well balanced, there is alcohol but the fruit has been well extracted to counter it. Ready to go, have it with food, don’t expect the most sophisticated glass you'll ever see, but thoroughly enjoyable. 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
2006
Château NéninPomerol
Château Trotte Vieille, St-Émilion, 1er Grand Cru Classé B, Bordeaux, France, 2006
95
Where the 2005 is rich and heady - certainly very stylish and confident, this is long, fun and fruity with floral notes on the nose with blackcurrants and sweet exotic spices. Fresh, lively and forward, this carries interest straight away, smooth and succulent, agile and generous with filling tannins that have a chalky texture putting the limestone terroir into the glass with sides of strawberry and cherry fruit. Gentle and satisfying, structured and muscular but with excellent acidity and purity. Still young but approachable and enjoyable with lots of detail on show.
2006
Château Trotte VieilleSt-Émilion
Château La Gaffelière, St-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France, 2006
89
Subtle traces of oak smoke give a pretty grilled quality on the nose, this wine is starting to extend itself, to hit right to the baseline. Fine damson fruit that holds on through the mid palate. Acidity slightly out of balance on the finish, just a touch intrusive, but so much to forgive with the fruit texture and sense of lift. A fine 2006 that is ready to drink with a good carafing, but still with life to come. Great showing from the Malet Roquefort family, although not hitting the heights of its 2005. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc.
2006
Château La GaffelièreSt-Émilion
Château Latour, Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France, 2006
89
Still faint traces of violet suggest the fruit has kept its youth intact. Soft tannins on the attack through, and this is really shaping up to be ready to drink. Very pretty, not as powerful as some years but great quality. Beautifully restrained tannins that are still cradling the ripe blackberry fruit. Soaring sense of upward motion, crisp and clean on the finish but falls well below the first wine.
2006
Château LatourPauillac
Château La Fleur-Pétrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France, 2006
89
Back in the days when this was still just one of the range of Moueix wines, instead of the flagship that it is today. This majors in toffee, butterscotch, rich and sexy fruit flavours, blackberry and cream, very soft integrated tannins, silky smooth, avoids many of the pitfalls of austerity of 2006 but loses some typicity because of it. Plenty of pleasure, but not my favourite year of this property, really have to wait for 2010 for LFP to take on another level. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc.
2006
Château La Fleur-PétrusPomerol
