California Cabernet 2012
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Linda Murphy picks 10 top wines from California Cabernet 2012 vintage, and speaks to producers about that successful year.

California Cabernet 2012

‘2012 was an outstanding vintage,’ says Chris Carpenter, winemaker for Jackson Family Wines’ high-end Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons, bottled under the Cardinale, Lokoya, La Jota and Mount Brave labels. ‘In 2011, we sourced Cab from just three Napa Valley sub-appellations. In 2012, we used seven sub-AVAs. The mountain vineyards [on Howell Mountain, Mount Veeder, Spring Mountain and Diamond Mountain] did well in the cool 2011, as they got more warmth at the end of the growing season. But the warmer conditions in 2012 gave us more [blending] options from other regions.’

Tim Bell, winemaker for Dry Creek Vineyard in Sonoma, says: ‘2012 was a blessed relief. 2009 was cool, with rain at harvest. 2010 and 2011 were cool and produced Cabs with a herbal, Bordeaux character. 2012 was just beautiful: no rain at the wrong time, and with armer temperatures that eliminated excessive herbal characteristics.’

In Paso Robles. Steve Peck, maker of red wines for J Lohr Vineyards & Winery, points out that 2012 was the first year of a four-year drought in California, which currently has residents and businesses rationing water.

‘The warm and dry conditions of 2012 caused early budbreak and early veraison,’ he says. ‘We saw greater tannic structure in Cabernet in 2012 as a result. It was an excellent vintage, though 2013 has more body to go with the tannin.’

Aron Weinkauf, winemaker and vineyard manager at Spottswoode Estate in Napa Valley, sums the Californian Cab scene up by saying, ‘Coming on the heels of 2011, which produced quite restrained, aromatically driven Cabernet Sauvignons, 2012 ripeness was decidedly not a challenge. We strived to achieve a balanced ripeness that underscores the density and structure of the vintage, while preserving the aromatic freshness and beauty of the wines. The fact that there were no significant heat spikes was a big factor in helping us to achieve this goal.’

Long-time contributor to Decanter, Linda Murphy is the author of American Wine: The Ultimate Companion with Jancis Robinson MW.

Cardinale, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, USA, 2012

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A Cab-dominant blend that’s voluptuous and polished, yet with acid and tannin backbone for the cellar. Vivid, dark cherry fruit, seamless texture and a long,...

2012

CaliforniaUSA

CardinaleNapa Valley

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Corison, Kronos Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, St Helena, California, USA, 2012

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Restrained, quite complex nose that should open up to fruit and mineral with a bit more time in bottle. The palate feels a little sour,...

2012

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CorisonNapa Valley

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Lokoya, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain, California, USA, 2012

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95

Black minerality and liquorice distinguish this heady, tannic wine, though it’s remarkably composed, with pure wild blackberry, crunchy acidity and layers of complexity.

2012

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LokoyaNapa Valley

Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Cask 23 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District, California, USA, 2012

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The best Cask 23 in recent memory, with inviting perfume, mouth-coating texture, intense black fruit and layers of graphite, cedar and firm yet elegant tannins.

2012

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Stag's Leap Wine CellarsNapa Valley

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Ramey, Pedregal Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Oakville, California, USA, 2012

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93

Excellent grip and complexity, with unfolding cassis, chocolate, forest floor, pencil lead and oak spice notes.

2012

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RameyNapa Valley

Frog's Leap, Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Rutherford, California, USA, 2012

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93

There’s more oak here than in most wines from this producer, yet the intense and fresh plum and black cherry fruit absorbs it well. Rich and also savoury, with moderate alcohol.

2012

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Frog's LeapNapa Valley

Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, FAY Estate, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District, California, USA, 2012

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Pretty and elegant, with floral and cassis perfume and supple tannins. Seamless from start to finish, with refreshing acidity.

2012

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Stag's Leap Wine CellarsNapa Valley

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Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Fay Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District, California, USA, 2012

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92

This wine has both elegance and finesse, expressing creamy aromas of fine oak and cigar box accompanied by fresh, juicy dark fruits. Five-spice, menthol, harmonious cherry and a raspberry hint give a complex yet balanced red fruit character. Founded in 1970 and winner of the best red wine in the 1976 Judgement of Paris tasting, this is one of Napa’s ‘first growths’.

2012

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Stag's Leap Wine CellarsNapa Valley

Far Niente, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Oakville, California, USA, 2012

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91

Lushly textured and polished, with juicy red cherry and berry, creamy vanillin and anise notes. Has the structure to support the richness.

2012

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Far NienteNapa Valley

Silverado Vineyards, SOLO, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District, California, USA, 2012

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Suave, supple and brimming with bright black cherry and cassis. Decadent and ripe yet not over the top.

2012

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Silverado VineyardsNapa Valley

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Silverado Vineyards, Solo Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District, California, USA, 2012

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89

Voluptuous blackcurrant fruit on the nose, juicy and upfront. Dense but not extracted, yet has some structure; spicy and complex, with an underlying subtlety too.

2012

CaliforniaUSA

Silverado VineyardsNapa Valley

Linda Murphy
Decanter Magazine, US Expert, Wine Writer & Editor
Linda Murphy is co-author, with Jancis Robinson MW, of “American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of United States,” which celebrates winemaking in all 50 states, and Americans’ rapidly growing love of wine – particularly locally produced wine. Based in Sonoma County, Calif., Linda is the managing editor for Sonoma magazine, columns editor for Vineyard & Winery Management magazine, columnist for WineReviewOnline and a contributor to Decanter magazine. She is also Contributing Editor to Food & Wine magazine’s Wine Guide, and her writing has appeared in Cooking Light and Food & Wine magazines, Sommelier Journal, Men’s Health, epicurous.com and elsewhere. A sportswriter for 13 years before entering the wine business, Linda was the first wine section editor of The San Francisco Chronicle, where she won two James Beard Awards. She has been a speaker at the New Zealand Winegrowers Export Conference, Culinary Institute of America Greystone, Wine Tourism Conference, Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, Association of Food Journalists Conference, Texas Hill County Wine & Food Festival, and Wines of Chile Marketing Conference. She also judges eight to 10 wine competitions a year, home and abroad.