Ian D’Agata’s top 10 Verdicchios

<p>One of Italy&rsquo;s three or four greatest white wines. Alsatian in style, opulent and thick, with a hint of residual sugar. Unfortunately, the 2009 vintage has been made in a less memorable, more linear, dry style. My hope is that Sartarelli will revert back to the previous style.</p>

The best non-riserva Verdicchio from Bucci in memory. Almost Mosel Riseling-like in its freshness, with crisp green apple, white peach and almond notes. The Riserva can age 10+ years.

Italy’s best-buy wine of all time? Unbelievable quality for the price. Mineral zestiness, almond flowers, green apple and chlorophyll notes you won’t forget. You can tell owner Fabio Marchionni studied white wine in Germany.

Long lived, pure and fresh, with almond, citrus and apricot notes that last. One of Italy’s greatest whites. And no oak.

No more over-oaking, a pure expression of today. Beautiful. All roasted almonds, honey and ripe citrus.

Huge wine: tropical fruits, honey, ripe citrus and roasted almonds. A mouthfilling, tactile Verdicchio like few others. The entry-level wine is almost as good and more typical of Matelica.

Owner Gianluca Mirizz and brother Alessandro are among the most knowledgeable Verdicchio men around, and this is another great wine made with consultant Lorenzo Landi. Big, Sauvignon-like aromas and flavours. Green fig and winter melon, plus almonds and hazelnuts.

Recommended Brand new, impressive operation by local Jesi businessman. Alberto Mazzoni, consultant at Sartarelli and Coroncino, is on board. Fresh, long and crisp, with herbal and hazelnut nuances and a saline, savoury twist.

<p>Slightly late harvested grapes with low yields. A bigger, saline and herbal expression. Long, serious, ageworthy.</p>

Recommended Splendid entry-level: all hazelnuts, almonds, cut grass and lemony saline twists. The Classico Superiore is deeper and not much more expensive.