Magnum of Champagne: Top wines to try

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The Champagne magnum has long been a symbol of celebration and flamboyance, but expert Michael Edwards also argues that it can generate more complexity than a normal bottle. Here are the seven best magnums from a special blind tasting he attended this year...
A magnum of Champagne is about much more than symbolism or how handsome they look on the table.
In this larger format, the wine almost invariably tastes better to the collector who has the patience to await the right time to savour that alchemy of freshness, zip, complexity and vigour in a longer, distinguished life.
To put this old wisdom to the test, a rare blind-tasting event was hosted at London wine club 67 Pall Mall by Jancis Robinson MW and organised by The Finest Bubble, a small UK-based online wine shop.
So, what effect did the magnums in particular have on the wine’s evolving flavours? Did the larger bottle size manifest itself in a slower, more even maturation and greater span of complex taste sensations?
The quick answer is yes, in so far as the magnum was the format that shone in the scores across the formats tasted.
Scroll down for our top seven Champagne magnums
In Reims, Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, cellar master and vice-president of Louis Roederer highlights the fact that every bottle in Champagne is a fermentation vessel. Lécaillon stresses, ‘the bigger the format, the longer the fermentation, which creates more complexity – a more seamless texture.’
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Michel Drappier, the leading producer of the Aube district of southern Champagne is a specialist in larger formats. He observes, ‘the quantity of oxygen included in the cork is also divided by two because the cork of a bottle and magnum are identical.’
The important point to reiterate is that the larger wine surface area of a magnum allows for the optimum balance of freshness and flavour intensity so prized by wine lovers.
Copy editing for Decanter.com by Laura Seal
The Top Seven Magnums
Louis Roederer, Cristal (Magnum), Champagne, France, 1996

A dazzling achievement in a tricky year. Emphatic punch of acidity has been moulded into electric energy and thrust, while keeping the saline vinosity. Life...
1996
ChampagneFrance
Louis Roederer
Billecart-Salmon, Cuvée Nicolas François, Champagne, France, 2002

This continues to make its case as the top Cuvée Nicolas François of recent times, showing brilliant harmony and balance with no signs of slowing...
2002
ChampagneFrance
Billecart-Salmon
Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne, Champagne, France, 2002

Youthful vigour and purity of green fruits, hazlenuts and a touch of fennel. Great subtlety.
2002
ChampagneFrance
Taittinger
Bollinger, Grande Année (Magnum), Champagne, France, 2007

This wine shows what larger formats, in this case magnum, can bring, with complex fruit confit flavours of peche des vignes and dried apricot. A...
2007
ChampagneFrance
Bollinger
Charles Heidsieck, Champagne Charlie (Magnum), Champagne, France, 1982

Tasted from magnum. This has a resonant yellow/gold colour akin to great Chassagne, with scents of apricots and white pepper alongside a nutty character bringing...
1982
ChampagneFrance
Charles Heidsieck

Michael Edwards trained in Law, reading for the Bar at Gray’s Inn, London. In 1968, he joined Laytons, and while living in France in the 1970s represented fine estates in Burgundy and Alsace .
He has also been a chief inspector of the Egon Ronay restaurant Guide. A freelance writer for 30 years, he has specialised in Champagne, in 2010 winning the Roederer Wine Book of the Year for The Finest Wines of Champagne.
He became the first non-Champenois to be admitted order of Confrère St Vincent de Vertus. He’s researching a new book on Champagne and other great sparkling wines.
Michael Edwards was first a DWWA judge in 2004 and was most recently a judge at the 2018 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).