New Zealand wines to try: Beyond Sauvignon
There's more to New Zealand than Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir - time to find a new wine to try today...
New Zealand wines to try: Beyond Sauvignon
Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are still the bread and butter of the New Zealand wine industry, each variety making up some 70% of white and red plantings. And Chardonnay – the dominant grape between 1993 and 2003 – is also seeing a revival, comprising about 12%.
But there is much more to Kiwi wine than this popular trio, particularly aromatic whites such as Riesling and Pinot Gris – often made in delectable off-dry styles – as well as fledging plantings of ‘alternative’ varieties like Albariño and Grüner Veltliner.
And if you want to try the classics…
New Zealand Chardonnay: panel tasting results
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: panel tasting results
Beyond Pinot Noir there is less diversity in the reds, with Syrah undoubtedly leading the way, especially wines co-fermented with Viognier in homage to Côte-Rôtie.
But the Bordeaux grapes of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec still offer some interest, either as varietals or in a blend, as do unusual and exciting finds such as Stanley Estates’ Lagrein.
The following 10 wines were among highlights tasted at the New Zealand Annual Tasting in London in January.
Felton Road, Block 1 Riesling, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2017
93
Wow! A delicious Riesling for fans of the off-dry style. Despite 63g/l of residual sugar it is far from cloying, thanks to the searing acidity that perfectly balances the concentrated tropical fruit and weighty palate. This has awesome purity and delicious grippiness, exotic and honeyed with a lengthy lime cordial finish and luscious white peach lift.
2017
Felton RoadBannockburn
Greywacke, Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2015
92
Kevin Judd's Marlborough venture sources fruit from mature vines across the region, this medium-dry Riesling coming from the organically farmed Ashford Vineyard in Fairhall. The delicately honeyed mandarin fruit is beautifully balanced by firm, mouthwatering acidity, delicious and moreish lemon curd, and lime cordial purity with a dry, tangy finish.
2015
Greywacke
Seresin Estate, Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2016
91
Biodynamic whole-bunch pressed fruit finishes its wild yeast fermentation in old barriques before being left on its lees for six months to gain complexity and a textural, creamy mouthfeel. This is wonderfully autumnal and vital, with fine peach sweetness, ripe yellow apple crispness and a lift of meadow flowers. The off-dry Memento Riesling is also worth seeking out.
2016
Seresin Estate
Tinpot Hut, McKee Vineyard Grüner Veltliner, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2016
91
So convinced were they that this Austrian variety would flourish in Marlborough, Tinpot Hut winemakers Fiona Turner and Matt Thompson convinced the McKee family to grow a few rows of Grüner Veltliner in their Blind River vineyards. The result is a great food wine with lovely mouthfeel and complexity, starting with tight, tart spiced apples then moving to more floral, nectarine characters and a crisp, stony acidity.
2016
Tinpot Hut
Aronui, Single Vineyard Albariño, Moutere Hills, Nelson, New Zealand, 2016
90
Aronui is a Maori wine brand whose mythological name means 'the pursuit of knowledge in arts and the land'. This is only the second vintage of this Albariño from the young Whenua Matua vineyard in Upper Moutere. It shows good varietal character on the nose and palate with a saline, citrussy edge and juicy, creamy exotic fruit. Firm, balancing acidity keeps it nice and fresh.
2016
AronuiMoutere Hills
Man O’War, Bellerophon, Waiheke, Auckland, New Zealand, 2014
Syrah grapes for this beauty (the second vintage after the 2012) come from three volcanic hillside vineyards, co-fermented in the Côte-Rôtie style with 3% Viognier....
2014
Man O’WarWaiheke
Bilancia, La Collina Syrah, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2014
Trinity Hill winemaker Warren Gibson and his wife, fellow winemaker Lorraine Leheny, founded Bilancia in 1997, planting Syrah on a steep terraced slope that was...
2014
Bilancia
Elephant Hill, Syrah, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2015
93
Distinct black pepper notes and some blackberry pâte de fruits, lifted and fresh. Concentrated fruits between sweet and savoury. Lingering, gently smoky, peppery finish. Supremely well made and well balanced, with beautiful varietal and terroir expression. Fine, gentle tannin and gentle but balanced acidity. Consistently one of the best Syrahs outside the Rhône.
2015
Elephant Hill
Te Awa, Left Field Merlot, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, 2013
91
Striking labels are not the only thing to note about this Hawke's Bay estate, whose winemaker Richard Painter follows the tenet that 'curiosity reigns and rules are made to be broken'. This offers mature drinking now, with a creamy but not cloying palate of rich, spiced plums. It's not too oaky either, despite 18 months in barrel. An Albariño from vineyards in Gisborne and a Malbec from estate vineyards in Gimblett Gravels are also excellent.
2013
Te Awa
Stanley Estates, Lagrein, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2014
90
After time in the UK and South Africa, Bridget Ennals and Steve Pellett settled in New Zealand in 2003, planting 11ha in Awatere and making their first wine in 2009. Following on from the success of their Albariño (theirs were the first vines in New Zealand) came this equally adventurous Lagrein - the first vintage of a limited production from 2,236 vines. It's bright and easy drinking, full of supple red cherry fruit with a hint of spice and some earthy notes, and juicy acidity to balance.
2014
Stanley Estates
