Oregon Gamay: New wines to discover
Anne Krebiehl MW recently attended the International Pinot Noir Celebration in Oregon, but came away equally captivated by the 'hauntingly perfumed' Gamays also produced in the region.
Vivid cherry fruit, pepper and ample freshness: that is Oregon Gamay. This often overlooked grape is finding authentic expression in the temperate climate of America’s Pacific Northwest, where Oregon’s volcanic and sedimentary soils, its sunny days and strikingly cool nights are proving a perfect home.
Scroll down for Anne’s top five Oregon Gamay wines to try
Doug Tunnel of Brick House Vineyards in the Willamette Valley’s Ribbon Ridge AVA was among the first to plant Gamay in 1992. To him, the climatic parallels between Beaujolais and Oregon were clear, ‘When I first started selling Gamay it took so much talking, people just did not know what it was’, he remembers.
Inspiration
But Tunnell’s Gamays have inspired others. By now there are approximately 30 acres of the variety in Oregon, where orchards still outnumber vineyards. There is talk is of grubbing up fruit trees to plant more. ‘I think at this moment a lot of people want to make Gamay but there is just not enough planted’, says Thomas Houseman, winemaker at Anne Amie Vineyards, who clearly loves the grape.
Oregon Gamay almost always ripens later than Pinot Noir while holding its acidity well. ‘We never have to acidulate’, attests Brad McLeroy of Ayres Vineyard, who is thinking of planting more acres.
Fermentation
Both carbonic maceration and traditional skin fermentation are used. The carbonic styles are a hit as chilled reds for summer, while the traditionally fermented styles, often with a portion of whole bunches, are increasingly Pinot-esque.
Authentic
John Grochau of Grochau Cellars notes that the grape’s thicker skin and upright growth are a natural protection against rot, a great asset in a damp climate. But he is also clear that Gamay does not achieve Pinot Noir prices, despite the same input and dedication.
This may make it difficult to justify the expense of planting, at least for now, but for consumers these hand-crafted, authentic wines represent fantastic value.
Anne’s top five Oregon Gamay wines to try:
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Credit: Ian Shaw / Alamy Stock Photo
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Grochau Cellars, Gamay Noir Bjornson Vineyard, Willamette Valley, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon, USA, 2015
This opens with an expressive scent of morello cherry and peony petals. The palate is taut and focussed, still young but so poised. The tannic...
2015
Grochau CellarsWillamette Valley
Brickhouse, Due East Gamay Noir, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge, Oregon, USA, 2015
Luscious red cherry with notions of white and black pepper dominates both nose and palate. There is a lovely aromatic touch of crushed ivy on...
2015
BrickhouseWillamette Valley
Anne Amie Vineyards, Twelve Oaks Estate Gamay Noir, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains, Oregon, USA, 2015
The nose brims with red and black cherries, which are just as expressive on the ripe palate. The utterly hedonistic fruit is pervaded by bright...
2015
Anne Amie VineyardsWillamette Valley
Ayres, Gamay Noir, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains, Oregon, USA, 2015
A wonderfully aromatic nose of dark cherry with a touch of white pepper and conifer. Killer freshness is aligned to pure and plush cherry fruit,...
2015
AyresWillamette Valley
Evening Land, Seven Springs Gamay Noir, Willamette Valley, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon, USA, 2015
Vivid sprays of white pepper jump from the glass and pervade the entire palate. The fruit is all about crunchy, tart but ripe red cherry...
2015
Evening LandWillamette Valley
