Oregon Pinot Noir: Expert’s Choice
The region has taken off in the 50 years since its first modern-era plantings, with sustainability-minded producers making wines with identity, finds sommelier Laure Patry.
It all started in 1961 when Richard Sommer planted Oregon‘s first post-Prohibition vinifera grapes, including Pinot Noir, in the Umpqua Valley.
The temperate climate and costal marine influence in Oregon is ideal for cool-climate grapes such as Pinot Noir, and more wineries started to spring up. By 1974, the region’s wine producers recognised Oregon’s need to import good cool-climate clones from Burgundy, among others.
See Laure’s 18 top Oregon Pinot Noir wines:
Today, Oregon has more than 600 wineries and 900 vineyards. Most of the Pinot Noir vineyards are in the Willamette Valley, the remaining plantings in the Umpqua Valley and the Columbia Gorge.
The Willamette Valley contains six sub-AVAs: Chehalem Mountains, Dundee Hills and Eola-Amity Hills on basaltic soils; and McMinnville, Ribbon Ridge and Yamhill-Carlton on marine sedimentary soils. This explains the different styles of Pinot Noir that are produced across the region.
Wines from the basaltic, volcanic soils are more aromatic, with red fruits, tea notes and softer tannins, while those from the marine soils tend to show more voluptuous black fruits, earthy notes, spices and more tannin.
It was encouraging to see a good selection of Oregon Pinot Noir on show at the Go West! trade tasting in London in March 2015, even though there were some producers missing. On the evidence of this tasting, and my recent experience of Oregon Pinot Noir, the rapid growth it has made as a wine region has not harmed it at all. Producers work with respect for the environment (in 2008, the Oregon wine board introduced the Oregon Certified Sustainable Wine programme), and are making wines with their own identity.
Laure Patry is executive head sommelier at Michelin-starred Pollen Street Social in London.
Beaux Frères, Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA, 2011
Fruit from the northern part of Willamette Valley, aged in French oak. Full and ripe on the palate, with raspberry aromas developing to truffle and...
2011
Beaux FrèresWillamette Valley
Willakenzie, Pierre Léon Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton, Oregon, USA, 2010
0
This selection of different Pinot Noir clones spends 14 months in French oak, 50% new. A good representation of Oregon Pinot Noir.
2010
WillakenzieWillamette Valley
Bergström, Bergström Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills, Oregon, USA, 2013
Biodynamic. Old World Pinot style, earthy, rustic and elegant, with a lot of minerality due to the volcanic basalt soil. Needs a bit of time.
2013
BergströmWillamette Valley
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Laurène Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills, Oregon, USA, 2011
12-14 months in French oak, released after three years. Spices, silky tannins and a long finish.
2011
Domaine Drouhin OregonWillamette Valley
Trisaetum, Wichmann Dundee Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills, Oregon, USA, 2012
95
Vineyards planted at 200m altitude, on volcanic soil. Savoury, ripe blueberries, Asian spices and earthy notes. Elegant and well balanced.
2012
TrisaetumWillamette Valley
Bergström, Silice Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains, Oregon, USA, 2012
94
‘Silice’ is French for silica, the name of the rocks found in the sandy soil of Chehalem Mountains. Ripe cherries and raspberries with spices.
2012
BergströmWillamette Valley
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills, Oregon, USA, 2013
Made in a more Burgundian style, aged 8-10 months in barrel. Elegant, ripe dark fruits, cassis and violets with spicy and smoky notes. Young but...
2013
Domaine Drouhin OregonWillamette Valley
Soter Vineyards, Mineral Spring Ranch Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton, Oregon, USA, 2011
94
Owned by Tony and Michelle Soter since 1997. Full-bodied, ripe plums, spices, soft tannins. Small production.
2011
Soter VineyardsWillamette Valley
Adelsheim Vineyards, Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA, 2012
90
Most of the fruit comes from five estate vineyards. Delicate, wild berries and cherries, fleshy with some spicy oak, cinnamon and supple tannins.
2012
Adelsheim VineyardsWillamette Valley
Sokol Blosser, Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills, Oregon, USA, 2012
90
Certified organic, sustainable business – the first US winery to receive LEED certification. Concentrated style, fruit-forward, with spices and smoky notes.
2012
Sokol BlosserWillamette Valley
Soter Vineyards, Planet Oregon Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA, 2012
90
Sourced from the Soters’ own vines and other certified sustainable vineyards. Concentrated, floral with blackcurrant and red plum fruit. Juicy, good acidity.
2012
Soter VineyardsWillamette Valley
Eyrie Vineyards, Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills, Oregon, USA, 2011
88
<p>Pale. Medium-bodied, ripe on the palate with figs, roasted tomatoes, herbs and leathery notes. Organic.</p>
2011
Eyrie VineyardsWillamette Valley
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA, 2013
Released in 2015, as a forward-drinking wine. Light style, strawberries, raspberries. Bright acidity, fine tannins.
2013
Domaine Drouhin OregonWillamette Valley
Elk Cove Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA, 2012
85
Ripe, blackcurrant aromas, baking spices and herbal notes. Well textured, bitter chocolate and liquorice notes.
2012
Elk Cove VineyardsWillamette Valley
Erath Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA, 2012
85
Planted in 1969 by Dick Erath; 25% matured in new French oak. Easy-drinking, bright and fresh with ripe strawberry aromas. Juicy, with soft tannins.
2012
Erath VineyardsWillamette Valley
