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Champagne critic Michael Edwards picks out six of the best wines on show at the annual Champagne Bureau tasting in London, held on 11 March 2015.

The UK is the largest export market for Champagne and regional trade body Comite Champagne holds an annual tasting in London to allow critics, journalists and the trade to taste wines both old and new. Here, author and critic Michael Edwards picks out six of the best from the tasting.

 Jacquesson Cuvee 738, Champagne, France

Champagne-Jacquesson

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Outstanding

Admired numbered series of NV which aims to show the distinct character of each successive vintage as a base wine rather than a uniform blend year by year. The 738 is based on 2008, their best effort yet: impressive interplay of complexity, spice, vinosity. Very dry. Class.

Rating: 18pts/20

Price: Millesima £260 (x6 bottles)

Champagne-Mandois-2006

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Henri Mandois 2006

Highly Recommended

Warm but balanced year from important grower (35 hectares in premier cru vineyards). Size, diversity of holdings equals greater complexity. Expressive Pinot Noir & Chardonnay, moderate dosage (under 6g/l), but fresh and incisive. À point. .

Rating: 17.5pts/20

Price: Taurus Wines £29.9

Champagne-Paul-Dethune

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Paul Dethune, Brut, Cuvee Prestige Princesse

Highly Recommended

Top Ambonnay domaine with all the famed class of this Grand Cru. 50/50 Pinot Noir & Chardonnay, base the stylish 2006+ reserve wines in solera system, creamy, ethereal, all about texture and finesse.

Rating: 18pts/20

Price: Highbury Vintners £50 / Richard Dawes £335 (x12 bottles)

Veuve-Clicquot-Rose

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Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rose 2004

Outstanding

In contrast to the straight Vintage Veuve Clicquot Rosé 2004 (a big black fruits wine), this is more refined and subtle with a higher percentage of Chardonnay. No lack of flavour, though. Clos Colin Pinot Vineyard adding a touch of kirsch and ‘Burgundy‘ notes. Lovely.

Rating: 18.5pts/20

Price: Thedrinkshop £248

Champagne-Billecart-Salmon

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Billecart-Salmon, Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart 2002

Outstanding

Almost the last to release their 2002, a legendary vintage, it’s certainly worth the wait. Exquisite green gold, a wine of sustained power and endless complexity to open fully over next decade. Wonderfully fresh at 13 years old.

Rating: 19pts/20

Price: Berry Bros & Rudd £480 (x6 bottles)

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Beaumont des Crayeres, Fleur de Meunier 2008

Highly Recommended

Bijou co-op known for top Meunier on chalk near Epernay. Super- fine aromas of red/yellow

fruits & brioche, generous mouthfeel, expressive peach and mirabel, ripe acidity. Great year. Ready. Value.

Rating: 17pts/20

Michael Edwards
Michael Edwards
Decanter Premium, Decanter Magazine, Champagne Expert and DWWA 2018 Judge

Michael Edwards trained in Law, reading for the Bar at Gray’s Inn, London. In 1968, he joined Laytons, and while living in France in the 1970s represented fine estates in Burgundy and Alsace .

He has also been a chief inspector of the Egon Ronay restaurant Guide. A freelance writer for 30 years, he has specialised in Champagne, in 2010 winning the Roederer Wine Book of the Year for The Finest Wines of Champagne.

He became the first non-Champenois to be admitted order of Confrère St Vincent de Vertus. He’s researching a new book on Champagne and other great sparkling wines.

Michael Edwards was first a DWWA judge in 2004 and was most recently a judge at the 2018 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).