Ten top South African Chardonnay

You might think Paarl would be too warm for Chardonnay, but not after you’ve tasted this wine by winemaker Arco Laarman. The vines are grown on decomposed granite quartz which is sheltered from the sun on north facing slopes. The resultant wine then gets 100% new oak treatment in 400-litre barrels and undergoes some battonage to great effect. The oak and the fruit are wonderfully integrated creating a still youthful wine of power and finesse with melon and pear fruit, quince, apricot, spice, butter and a mealy savoury quality. Exceptionally long. Tasted in South Africa in September 2015

One of the country’s iconic white wines and proof positive that SA Chardonnay can age. Of course it helps that this superbly sited single vineyard has no lack of underlying limestone resulting in low pHs and life giving acidity. Extraordinary breadth and depth. Wet stones on the nose and palate with lanolin texture, bone dry, cashew and pear fruit. Then savoury, sappy and lean with umami notes, structure and acidity. The complete package. Tasted in South Africa in September 2015.

This is Jackson Family Estate's first foray into South Africa – and what a debut by winemaker Graham Weerts and vineyard manager Rosa Kruger who sourced the fruit from exceptional sites in Stellenbosch, Overberg and Robertson. The wine carries the 55% new French oak with ease to reveal a profoundly complex Chardonnay with heft, depth and well-judged acidity. Stone fruits, pear, herbs, lees and hay notes and long saline finish, make this a very complete and complex effort. A star in the making.

Arguably the most faithfully Burgundian-styled Chardonnay tasted on my trip. Yet it speaks as much of Hemel en Aarde’s cool climate as it does of Beaune. Exquisitely crafted by winemaker Emul Ross, this tinglingly fresh and elegant Chardonnay also won a DWWA Gold this year. Lovely mouthfeel, linear, with melon, hazelnut, struck match, this is utterly compelling and a joy to drink. Tasted in South Africa in September 2015

Another blue chip Chardonnay which is a complete contrast to the Bateleur. This single vineyard, full throttle expression of Jordan terroir takes no prisoners. Winemaker, Sjaak Nelson, ferments the juice in barriques (virtually entirely new French oak) and then ages it sur lie for a further 12 months in oak during which he rolls the barrels to accentuate the leesy character. According to Nelson, it is a white wine for red wine drinkers. Expansive, big, spicy, voluptuous, with butterscotch, cloves, pear and minerals. Rich exotic and memorably long. Tasted in South Africa in September 2015.

From the cool and southerly Hemel-en-Aarde comes another classical and elegant Cape Chardonnay with exquisite drinkability and staying power. Ex H-R winemaker Gavin Patterson. Exposed site the vines are grown on decomposed granite, clay-loam and quartz. Whilst not wishing to disrespect either appellation, this Hemel en Aarde Chardonnay is reminiscent of a good Puligny Montrachet. Even after five years, there’s exceptional freshness and vibrancy, with pear, butter, oatmeal and savoury flavours.  Again, wonderful minerality, elegance, texture and ripeness. Tasted in South Africa in September 2015.

I tasted this twice in South Africa on consecutive days and on both occasions it impressed. Although it has been aged in 100% new barrels, the oak is barely perceptible except in the wine’s generous texture. Dry, savoury and mineral, this delightful Chardonnay by Swiss winemaker JC Martin is tautly balanced with fine acidity and savoury flavours of honey, lanolin and beeswax alongside the lush pear and custard cream sweetness. Round, balanced and long, this has a Meursault like complexity and intrigue. Delicious now, but will be even better in time. Tasted in South Africa in September 2015

A cracking Chardonnay from the Cape’s oldest wine farm. Grown on sandstone and decomposed granite this has a hint of aromatic perfume alongside the wine’s structure. The result is a richly textured wine with minerals, honeysuckle, white peach, cream and butter. Winemaker Boela Gerber delayed picking some plots to increase the intensity. And it shows in this complex, compelling effort. Tasted in South Africa in September 2015.

One of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley’s pioneers, Peter Finlayson’s unoaked 2014 Chardonnay is a stunning example from this cool climate region. Fresh, clean and sparingly lean with greengage, citrus and cox’s apple fruit. Delightful and pure. Tasted in South Africa in September 2015