Top 10 South African Syrah
Tim Atkin MW chooses his top 10 South African Syrah, where Syrah is emerging as the Cape's most exciting red grape.
The best South African Syrah
If you were looking for evidence of how recently Syrah has risen to prominence in South Africa, you could do worse than visit Sijnn in Malgas and Porseleinberg in the Swartland – remarkable vineyards at opposite ends of the winelands. These very different sites are producing two of the finest examples of the grape in the country and yet their first vintages were in 2007 and 2010, respectively.
Syrah may have arrived on South African shores in the second half of the 17th century, but it’s only recently that it has emerged as the Cape’s most exciting red grape, with 10% of plantings and increasing.
Are these Rhône style? It all depends what you mean by the term. The Cape has a Mediterranean climate, so even its cooler sites, located at altitude or close to the Atlantic or Indian oceans, are warmer than the northern Rhône. And yet many of the best wines display the pepper spice, tapenade and blackberry notes that are so typical of that famous french valley.
South Africa makes Syrah in all of its major growing regions. The most elegant wines come from Elgin, Constantia, Cederberg, Malgas and Cape Agulhas, but don’t write off the richer styles produced in Stellenbosch, Paarl, wellington, franschhoek, Tulbagh and the Swartland. Think of these as more Cornas-like, if you will, although the right soils, judicious viticulture, earlier picking, whole- bunch fermentation and a gentle hand in the cellar (especially where oak and extraction are concerned) can result in surprisingly more refined and complex Syrahs.
Of recent vintages, the two coolest growing seasons were 2013 and 2012, yet South Africa is such a big place that vintage generalisations are tricky. The even better news is that the 2015 vintage is regarded by many Cape winemakers as one of the best ever – and not just for Syrah. Now is the time to try a few.
Reyneke, Reserve Red, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2012
97
From a biodynamically farmed site, this is made entirely from Syrah for the first time. White pepper, some spice from whole bunches and notes of lavender and thyme underpinned by sweet vanilla oak, fine tannins and refined acidity. One of the top Cape reds.
2012
Reyneke
Keermont, Steepside Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2012
96
Creamy caramel and plum aromas – a modern style with lifted dried herb nuances. Expressive and generous on the supple, fruity palate with firm, ripe tannins. Needs food and time but shows nice typicity.
2012
Keermont
Porseleinberg, Syrah, Swartland, South Africa, 2013
96
The fourth vintage from this picturesque site on steep slopes. Aged in foudres and concrete eggs, it’s all about the intensity and focus of the fruit focused, dense and compact with thick tannins and the power and structure to age. A Cape classic in the making.
2013
Porseleinberg
Boekenhoutskloof, Syrah, Coastal Region, South Africa, 2012
95
<p>Elegant, refined cedar and plum aromas. The succulent, generous, ripe red fruits are counterpointed by grainy, chewy tannins. Rich, harmonious and well made. 80% fruit from Wellington and 20% from Porseleinberg, Marc Kent’s Syrah is always one of the Cape’s best. Brambly, lightly oaked and floral, with aromas of violets and wood smoke, fine tannins and impressive underlying finesse. Elegant winemaking.</p>
2012
Boekenhoutskloof
Leeuwenkil, Heritage Syrah, Swartland, South Africa, 2012
95
<p>Leeuwinkuil is a comparatively recent label (though the fruit from these vineyards was much coveted by other producers), but its Syrahs are brilliant. Red fruit, spice, bacon fat and white pepper combine enticingly on the palate here underpinned by taut minerality.</p>
2012
Leeuwenkil
Eagles’ Nest, Shiraz, Constantia, South Africa, 2012
94
Eagles’ Nest’s position at the top of Constantia Neck means it can ripen Syrah regularly in what is mostly a white wine area. Profound yet refreshing, this is the best release yet from Stuart Botha mint, pepper, spice and tapenade with subtle oak.
2012
Eagles’ Nest
Saronsberg, Shiraz, Tulbagh, South Africa, 2013
94
A bigger, plusher Cape Syrah, with 90% new oak. The palate is certainly ripe, but the wine has plenty of varietal character, with notes of crushed rock, blackberry and iodine, subtle oak and a fresh, stony finish.
2013
Saronsberg
Sijnn, Syrah, Malgas, Western Cape, South Africa, 2012
94
Owned by Dave Trafford (who also makes a fine Syrah at De Trafford in a bigger, riper style), this cool-climate Syrah comes from a remote vineyard above the Brede River. It’s a meaty, smoky, compact wine, with spices and red berries and a mineral core.
2012
Sijnn
Mullineux, Syrah, Swartland, South Africa, 2013
93
This is ‘only’ the entry point Syrah from Chris and Andrea Mullineux (they make four single-vineyard releases too), but it reminds of a scented, silky Crozes-Hermitage. Spicy and floral, with 40% whole bunches adding complexity.
2013
Mullineux
Waterkloof, Circumstance Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2012
93
Nadia Barnard makes delcious Rhône-style reds from this cool, biodyamic site overlooking False Bay. This comes mostly from a single block and was made with 100% whole bunches. Iodine, violets and wild herbs, sinewy tannins, subtle oak and a bright, oyster shell note on the finish.
2012
Waterkloof
