Top Italian varieties from California
Californian producers are finally making a selection of quality Italian grape variety wines. See Decanter expert Jon Bonne's top picks.
The history of Italian grapes in California has been, to be candid, a near-total failure. Its greatest success was found in the mid-20th century, when jugs of not-quite-Chianti were made from Carignan, Zinfandel and many other varieites California had inherited.
Jon Bonne gives us his top 10 picks of the best Italian varieties in California:
Ryme Cellars, Vermentino, Hers, Las Brisas Vineyard, California, USA, 2014
93
Both ‘His’ and ‘Hers’ Vermentinos from Ryme are compelling, but Hers tends to win. This vintage shows a basil verdant side and a lime-rickey fruitiness to match a full polished texture that would look good alongside the best of Liguria.
2014
Ryme CellarsLas Brisas Vineyard
Matthiasson, White Wine, Napa Valley, California, USA, 2013
94
Taut and lemony, with freesia, green tea and grey salt, and ripe tree fruit matched by stony, mineral firmness to define the texture.
2013
MatthiassonNapa Valley
Massican, Annia, Napa Valley, California, USA, 2014
92
A balance of fleshy fruit from Chardonnay, the ripe vintage, with intense greenness – dill, summer savory and green almond – from the Friulano. Stops one step short of austere in its texture – that’s the Ribolla – but it’s also young.
2014
MassicanNapa Valley
Arnot-Roberts, Vare Vineyard Ribolla Gialla, Napa Valley, California, USA, 2013
91
From George Vare’s original site, ageing in amphorae brings flesh to this. Funky gooseberry and quinine, with that typical stoniness.
2013
Arnot-RobertsNapa Valley
Edmunds St John, Heart of Gold, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado County, California, USA, 2014
89
A liberal dose of Grenache Blanc brings flesh to the intense stony, resinous notes of this Vermentino.
2014
Edmunds St JohnSierra Foothills
The Scholium Project, Kirschenmann Ranch, FTP Pinot Gris, Mokelumne River, California, USA, 2014
89
<p>With some whole clusters fermented in the juice, this is unusual stuff, as you’d expect from Scholium’s Abe Schoener. Peachy and musky, and chewy without being tannic.</p>
2014
The Scholium ProjectMokelumne River
Birichino, Malvasia Bianca, Monterey County, California, USA, 2013
88
User-friendly and fun for fans of that Gewürztraminer-like blossom flourish of Malvasia. Banana blossoms and plump, nectary fruit – think ripe pear and apricot.
2013
BirichinoMonterey County
Giornata, Barbera, Paso Robles, California, USA, 2014
90
Tense, balsam accents and deep cherry fruit, with that pure fruitiness that’s all too rare in Barbera.
2014
GiornataPaso Robles
Idlewild, Flora & Fauna Red, The Bird, Mendocino County, California, USA, 2014
90
This mix of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo is robust, clove-edged and shows a deep tannic structure.
2014
IdlewildMendocino County
Palmina, Dolcetto, Santa Barbara County, California, USA, 2013
89
Perky and fresh – this is less about Dolcetto’s classic dusty notes than an illustration of refreshing, tart-cherry fruit.
2013
PalminaSanta Barbara County
