Best California Chardonnay: Panel tasting results
Styles are definitely shifting away from big and burly and towards a fresher, more balanced model, but it’s a work in progress, said our panel...
Best California Chardonnay: Panel tasting results
‘Goodbye to the burly, huge, high-alcohol wines of 12 to 15 years ago,’ said Stephen Brook with relief, after a two-day tasting of 179 wines. ‘These Californian Chardonnays have definitely become fresher over the years, and most were pretty well balanced.’
- Scroll down to see the Outstanding and Highly Recommended wines
Andy Howard MW said, ‘You can see a shift in direction and a move away from the heavyweight, tropical style of old, but there are lots of wines that aren’t quite there yet.’
The highlights from this vast state appeared to be Santa Cruz Mountains – the origin of the highest-scoring wine – as well as Santa Barbara County and Santa Rita Hills. ‘The average UK consumer wouldn’t be familiar with these areas,’ pointed out Howard. ‘They probably associate California with Napa or Sonoma, Carneros or Monterey, but once you venture further south towards Los Angeles there are some exciting things happening.’
Sonoma put in a mixed performance, and even when you zoned in on the Sonoma Coast, ‘where the real excitement should be’, the tasters were disappointed. ‘Sonoma was a bit of a letdown in this tasting,’ admitted Andrew, ‘but I honestly believe that this is not a reflection of the reality – particularly of the Sonoma Coast.’ Especially the ‘true’ Sonoma Coast, he added, where the vineyards are closer to the Pacific.
Though Napa put in a respectable showing in the Highly Recommended list, it still came in for some flak. ‘Many of the wines labelled Napa Valley were relentlessly old-fashioned – big and blowsy,’ complained Brook. ‘If there is a move in California to more balanced, elegant wines, it certainly hasn’t reached Napa. I’m all for diversity of styles – and rewarded some fairly oaky, burly wines that were well made and harmonious – but I did expect more of the fresher style than we found here.’
Tasters agreed that these are Chardonnays to drink within the next five years or so. In terms of cost, they won’t be cheap – we’re talking premier cru Burgundy territory here – but Andrew argued that you can find value in California, if you know where to look.
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release Californian Chardonnays (minimum 75%). Two wines per producer were permitted.
These wines first appeared in Decanter magazine. To receive Decanter panel tastings every month, subscribe to Decanter here.
Ridge Vineyards, Estate Chardonnay, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains, California, USA, 2014
<p>Ridge’s two Chardonnays come from its superb Monte Bello vineyards high up in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Although Monte Bello is better known for its...
2014
Ridge VineyardsSan Francisco Bay
Hirsch Vineyards, Chardonnay, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast, California, USA, 2013
Very elegant nose with mineral and oak nuances. Silky smooth texture with lovely poise and an uplifting, refreshing quality. Concentrated notes of orange zest with...
2013
Hirsch VineyardsSonoma County
Calera, Chardonnay, San Benito County, Mount Harlan, California, USA, 2014
92
Sweet spices and preserved lemons on the nose; memories of a weekend in Marrakech. A mineral palate with restrained oak, nice grip and lots of character. Long and very complex with a full body and promise of more to come.
2014
CaleraSan Benito County
Dutton-Goldfield, Dutton Ranch-Rued Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma County, Green Valley of Russian River Valley, California, USA, 2013
91
Honeysuckle and melon complement the rich oak. Lovely integration on the palate with some minerality, zesty orange and tropical fruit notes. Concentrated and suave with personality and flair; finishes quite long.
2013
Dutton-GoldfieldSonoma County
Hanzell Vineyards, Chardonnay, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley, California, USA, 2013
91
A nose that captures the attention; chiselled, fresh and elegant. Oak is subtle and integrated with a mineral edge and some phenolic grip on the palate. Green citrus and basil notes bring complexity. Understated, yet modern with a pleasant finish.
2013
Hanzell VineyardsSonoma County
Hyde de Villaine, De La Guerra Chardonnay, Napa Valley, Los Carneros, California, USA, 2013
91
Delicate pear notes with attractive minerality on the nose. Creamy flavours with hints of butter and toast. Harmonious, thirst quenching and yet thirst provoking. Balanced by refreshing, natural acidity, followed by a long finish.
2013
Hyde de VillaineNapa Valley
Journeyman, Chardonnay, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast, California, USA, 2013
91
Warm, ripe tropical fruit characters on the nose with a hint of lime. Good attack, fresh and precise, delicate but not feeble. Orange peel flavours with good concentration of fruit and a long, complex finish.
2013
JourneymanSonoma County
Liquid Farm, White Hill Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County, Sta Rita Hills, California, USA, 2014
91
Bright nose of ripe yellow citrus and white flowers. Medium-bodied and supple with good acidity and understated oak. Has great structure and potential, and a mineral edge running through it. Refreshing grapefruit finish.
2014
Liquid FarmSanta Barbara County
Patz & Hall, Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay, Napa Valley, Los Carneros, California, USA, 2013
91
<p>Charming and perfumed nose with ripe Sicilian lemons, honey and white flowers. Displays superb grip on the mid-palate. Satisfying acidity keeps tension high and stitches the wine together beautifully onto a long, harmonious finish.</p>
2013
Patz & HallNapa Valley
Au Bon Climat, Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County, Santa Ynez Valley, California, USA, 2014
90
Very attractive hints of gunflint on the nose with gentle citrus fruit and well-managed oak. Fresh and bright on the palate, with plenty of acidity. A very refined and elegant example of Chardonnay with ageing potential.
2014
Au Bon ClimatSanta Barbara County
Domaine Anderson, Carpe Diem Chardonnay, Mendocino County, Anderson Valley, California, USA, 2014
90
Quite Burgundian in style with attractive toasty oak and a restrained palate. Fresh and crisp, with good intensity of fruit and a sleek texture. Poised and tense with sufficient acidity to give a long finish.
2014
Domaine AndersonMendocino County
Cuvaison, Chardonnay, Napa Valley, Los Carneros, California, USA, 2013
90
Bright apple nose and then good attack on the palate providing ample freshness and fair. Concentrated with a savoury edge combining lime zest and oak tannin. Persistent and racy; perfect with food.
2013
CuvaisonNapa Valley
Domaine Eden, Chardonnay, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains, California, USA, 2013
90
Heady stone-fruits nose; has power and vividness. Rich and glossy on the palate with peach and cream flavours. Will please many a palate as it pulls off the full bodied act very well while retaining freshness and clarity.
2013
Domaine EdenSan Francisco Bay
Truchard, Chardonnay, Napa Valley, Los Carneros, California, USA, 2014
90
Attractive, crisp oaky nose of apple and lime. Palate is melon and citrus fruit with good acidity to bind together the ripe fruit and creamy texture. A pretty wine that ticks all the boxes; expertly done.
2014
TruchardNapa Valley
Y Rousseau, Milady Chardonnay, Napa Valley, Mt Veeder, California, USA, 2012
90
Reticent apricot nose with a hint of pineapple and white flowers in the background. Lovely minerality and freshness, delivered with a sense of austerity. Toast and cream linger onto the finish with some persistence.
2012
Y RousseauNapa Valley
