Cahors: panel tasting results
Once-rustic Malbecs from Cahors have been transformed over the past two decades, spurred on by Argentina’s success with the grape.
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The quality of these Malbec wines has been transformed in the past decade said our tasters, meaning there’s never been a better time to rediscover the region.
In recent years Malbec has really hit the mainstream, thanks largely to the Argentinian take on the grape. But of course it’s a variety that has been associated with France, specifically Cahors, for far longer.
‘This was a truly fascinating tasting,’ declared Anthony Rose. ‘The consistency and standard was generally extremely good, indicating that there’s been a revolution in both viticulture and winemaking over the past few years. It shows how far Cahors has come in a relatively short space time in terms of these improvements.’
It was an opinion endorsed by his fellow tasters. Stephen Brook recalled: ‘I first went to Cahors in 1997 and, okay, there were a handful of very, very good estates which are still there today, but my overall impression was that the wines were pretty rustic. It was not a terribly encouraging visit back then, but I agree that the progress in recent years has been extraordinary.’
Top Cahors wines fom the panel tasting:
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Domaine Capelanel, Mythique, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2011
95
Stephen Brook: Very ripe toasty nose, sweet yet not jammy. Suave and silky, very concentrated. This has limpidity and finesse, but it's also spicy and lively. The tannins are polished, and the only fault is a slight lack of persistence. But overall a very graceful and stylish wine. Ben Llewellyn: Intense black cherry ginger spice, lovely resolution. So bright, clear and expressive on the nose, but showing restraint too. Tightly wound. The palate is completely seamless, with concentration of fruit, fabulous tannins and vital acidity. The fruit goes on and on, never cloying or losing interest. A great wine to age over 3-10 years. Anthony Rose: There's an underlying fresh herbal element to the juicy ripe sweet mulberry fruit. Powerfully rich and concentrated red whose red berry opulence is beautifully shot through with juicy fresh acidity and fine succulent tannins. Very elegant, magnificently stylish red.
2011
Southwest FranceFrance
Domaine CapelanelCahors
Chateau de Chambert, Grand Vin, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2009
95
Stephen Brook: Sumptuous plummy nose, seductively oaky, Indian spices, lifted and charming. Rich velvety attack, but underpinned by excellent acidity. This has abundant fruit and real tension too. Lifted, with drive and vigour. Still youthful and impeccably balanced. Long peppery finish. Ben Llewellyn: Expressive blue fruit, spice, lovely high notes which make it aromatically inviting. The palate has ripe concentrated fruit with ripe nutty tannins and sappy acidity. The fruit keeps coming and coming in a well-honed attractive fashion. A beautifully crafted wine. Anthony Rose: Typical bright Malbec scented nose, with fragrant cinnamon and clove spice oak and very ripe fruit that's nicely held in check. Supporting rather than overwhelming the bright blackberry fruit quality whose sinewy tennis and freshness give this wine lovely vibrancy and brightness, promising a good five to seven year future. Barolo in Cahors.
2009
Southwest FranceFrance
Chateau de ChambertCahors
Château Vincens, Origine, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2011
95
Stephen Brook: Sweet ripe damson nose has some purity of fruit despite the power. Medium-bodied, sleek and velvety, very concentrated but not too extracted. Shows good underlying acidity and there's no sign of heat from the alcohol. Sumptuous, hedonistic, and surprisingly elegant. Ben Llewellyn: A bright expressive initial nose, underpinned by camphor and incense. The palate is full of black fruit and spice with sweet mulberry and notes of violet. The finish is long, well-honed and leaves a very attractive perfume of violet and pruneaux. Anthony Rose: Huge colour, lots of sweet blackberry, cinnamon, camphor, and spicy fruit on the nose. Good, ripe, sweet rich mid-palate of black cherry and blackberry fruit concentration, firm sinewy structure behind it, big-boned and intense, still almost elemental for its age. A chunky powerful monkey to be sure. Lovely.
2011
Southwest FranceFrance
Château VincensCahors
Château Fantou, L'Élite, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2011
92
Dense colour, beautifully scented with liquorice spice, incense and black fruit. Very rich, dense and concentrated, yet enough acidity to give limpidity and freshness. Balanced and long, with a chewy but not tough finish.
2011
Southwest FranceFrance
Château FantouCahors
Georges Vigouroux, Les Comtes, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2011
92
Rich heady black fruits nose; quite savoury with menthol and liquorice. Good concentration of pure, black cherry fruit with a layered textural quality that's rather pleasing and has a healthy vein of acidity.
2011
Southwest FranceFrance
Georges VigourouxCahors
Domaine Capelanel, La Rangée du Curé, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2012
91
Very dense nose; brooding and spicy. There is tension between richness of flavour, fine-grained tannins, and succulent acidity. It’s tight, elegant, and peppery with balance and a natural feel.
2012
Southwest FranceFrance
Domaine CapelanelCahors
Domaine Serre de Bovila, Serre, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2009
91
Sumptuous damson nose, with some torrefaction, and the oak gives vanilla tones. The sweet cherry fruit quality is nicely supported by juicy fresh acidity and a suppleness of texture that's refreshingly moreish.
2009
Southwest FranceFrance
Domaine Serre de BovilaCahors
Clos Troteligotte, K-or, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2012
90
Vivid colour, fine floral aromatic quality, densely concentrated blackberry fruit tinged with spice and floral notes. The palate is concentrated and well-formed with ripe, structural tannins; quite long.
2012
Southwest FranceFrance
Clos TroteligotteCahors
Astrolabe, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2011
90
Lovely sweet nose incorporating spice, dark fruit, chocolate and a touch of smoky sausage. The palate is a dense, brooding affair with noble aspirations. There is balance and quality in the wine and it should improve.
2011
Southwest FranceFrance
AstrolabeCahors
Rigal, Le Vin Noir, Cahors, Southwest France, France, 2011
90
Aromatic notes of ginger and honey behind the ripe, dark fruits. The palate has the sweet lick of oak and there is enough fruit to take on the oak in the finish and the wine’s natural tannins win out in the end.
2011
Southwest FranceFrance
RigalCahors
