South African Syrah: panel tasting results

This is the first vintage of a wine made at Zorgvliet’s garagiste winery for English importer Boutinot, by one of South Africa’s most exciting young talents, Donovan Rall. He makes wines under his own label (Rall) and at Vuurburg, as well as this new range. The grapes are sourced from the Kasteelberg mountain and, true to the spirit of the so-called Swartland Revolution, is a minimal-intervention, comparatively low-alcohol style, with 100% whole-bunch natural fermentation in old oak barrels. The name refers to a famously skinny breed of cattle called Nguni. Tim Atkin MW: Wow! Intense, flavoursome, complex, aromatic, balanced and poised. Spicy, thick, complex and long, mineral and fresh. Pepper spice and wild herbs. Guy Harcourt-Wood: Savoury, olive-infused nose gives way to succulent, balanced red fruit flavours. Firm grippy tannins and lifted acidity make this a delight to drink. Greg Sherwood MW: Ripe, alluring, sweet, musky and cassis-laden nose. Dusty plums, mineral chalky notes and wonderfully fresh acidity integrates with sweet, concentrated, savoury black fruit. A pure joy to drink. Bravo!

<p>In a region known for the quality of its white wines (Bordeaux blends as well as 100% Sauvignon Blancs and Semillons plus dessert wines), Eagles&rsquo; Nest stands out as a producer of Rh&ocirc;ne-style reds and whites. &lsquo;We&rsquo;re the newest kids on the oldest block,&rsquo; says winemaker Stuart Botha. Syrah makes up 34% of the estate&rsquo;s plantings, which are on sandstone and decomposed granite soils. Their position close to Constantia Neck gives the vineyards extra hours of valuable sunshine. The small, bonsai-like vines have made some of the Cape&rsquo;s best Syrahs since the first release in 2005.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Tim Atkin MW </strong></em><br /> Spicy and violet-scented with classy, cracked pepper notes &ndash; a Cape C&ocirc;te-R&ocirc;tie. Superb winemaking: savoury and perfumed with a Viognier-like note. Long, complex and well balanced. Delicious wine. Balanced, nuanced and stylish with subtle oak notes.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Guy Harcourt-Wood </strong></em><br /> Pure wild-berry fruit nose, a savoury edge and warm mouthfeel but framed by tight, grippy tannins and vibrant acidity. Tasty.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Greg Sherwood MW </strong></em><br /> Charcoal embers, wood smoke and peppery spice. Forest berries and leafy complexity. Plenty of sweet red plum and a hint of railway yard. Ripe but balanced.</p>

<p>Jurgen Gouws is the assistant winemaker at Lammershoek, the leading exponent of &lsquo;natural&rsquo; wines in Swartland, which is where he also produces his own small batches of Chenin Blanc and Syrah. The approach is similar to that of Lammershoek, but not as extreme. Previous vintages of Intellego Syrah contained some Mourvedre, but this is a varietal wine made from old, unirrigated bush vines, mostly on decomposed granite soils. It&rsquo;s a minimal- intervention red, unfined and unfiltered, although some sulphur dioxide is added at bottling. The fermentation takes place in older French oak, as per the Swartland Revolution norm.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Tim Atkin MW</strong></em><br /> Pepper spice, complexity and gentle tannins. Crozes-like aromatics, midweight, smoky and nuanced. Cracked pepper and great intensity. Long and refreshing.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Guy Harcourt-Wood</strong></em><br /> Pure, floral and vibrant redcurrant nose leading to a crunchy, fresh fruit-driven palate. A complex, balanced offering. Graceful.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong><em>Greg Sherwood MW</em></strong><br /> Ripe, stalky, boiled sweets perfume. Mineral layers complement the expertly judged oak. Core of dusty red cherry and red berry fruit that finishes with a nervy, lifted red apple and raspberry coulis concentration that&rsquo;s mineral and sleek. Love the cool, European alcohol &ndash; so unobtrusive. Just love it!</p>

<p>Chris and Andrea Mullineux have made a remarkable impact on the Cape wine scene since their maiden vintage in 2008 (they had previously worked at Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards, now Fable Mountain Vineyards). This modest couple makes four of the country&rsquo;s best Syrahs: Schist, Granite, Iron and this, a blend of the three soils. In a region where ripeness and alcohol levels can easily get out of hand, they have perfected the art of crafting balanced, aromatic Syrahs. This is arguably the best vintage yet of their entry-point bottling, with more than 50% whole-bunch fermentation.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Tim Atkin MW</strong><br /> Sweet and smoky in a slightly reductive style. Tannins a little dry, firm and slightly chewy, but there&rsquo;s masses of flavour and richness. Tarry, long and complex. Very refreshing.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Guy Harcourt-Wood</strong><br /> Eucalyptus nose with candied fruit flavours. Intense, pure fruit supported by firm tannins and vibrant acidity. Poised.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><strong>Greg Sherwood MW</strong><br /> Dark, broody, tight and serious wine. Instant pedigree noted with pretentions to greatness. Dry, chalky, mineral and spicy tannins. Some controlled leafy, herbal complexity and a long, gravelly finish. Very grown up and serious. Impressive.</p>

<p>Radford Dale is the top tier of wines from The Winery of Good Hope, founded in 1998 by Burgundian-trained Englishman Alex Dale. The wines have become increasingly good in recent years, thanks to a more &lsquo;naked&rsquo; approach and less reliance on oak. This outstanding Syrah comes from a single, east-facing organic block of granite on the eastern side of the Paardeberg mountain. No additions were made during fermentation, and ageing was conducted in three- and four-year-old oak on gross lees, helping the wine to mature in a reductive environment without sulphur.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Tim Atkin MW</strong></em><br /> Evidence of whole-bunch fermentation. Smoky and complex with fresh acidity. Good structure, low-alcohol style. Bloody, dense, savoury and long. Impressive minerality with a Cornas-like intensity. Lovely winemaking.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Guy Harcourt-Wood</strong></em><br /> Bright, vibrant red berry nose. Violets mingle with bright fruit and taut, lifted acidity. Complex wine with a delicious, long finish.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Greg Sherwood MW</strong></em><br /> Sweet, earthy red strawberry, forest fruits, ripe, pure and exotic. Very natural, pure and expressive. Sweet and savoury meats, dry, chalky, grippy tannins and good length. Works superbly well.</p>

<p>Keermont is a relatively new name in Stellenbosch, having released its first wines in 2007. The estate is tucked between the Helderberg and Stellenbosch mountains, and the comparative altitude of these isolated vineyards is well suited to a floral, silky, pepper-spiced, Rh&ocirc;ne-style of Syrah. This 2012 vintage (which includes 5% Mourvedre for the first time) comes from two blocks: one on east-facing sandstone at a higher elevation, the other on north-facing, deep clay loams. Winemaker Alex Starey favours partial whole-bunch fermentation, minimal-intervention winemaking and ageing in old oak.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Tim Atkin MW</strong></em><br /> Thick, spicy, peppery and intense &ndash; Cornas style. Remarkable concentration. Meaty and long, dense and compact; a wine with soul.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Guy Harcourt-Wood</strong></em><br /> Ripe blackberry fruit infused with potpourri on the nose. Cherry- flavoured palate with hints of smoke. Finishes warm.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Greg Sherwood MW</strong></em><br /> Sweet, dense, black fruit and leafy spice &ndash; earthy with a sweet cranberry lift. Palate has fine balance, textural complexity and spicy, red apple, plum and forest fruit complexity. Classic Stellenbosch Syrah.</p>

<p>Neil Ellis and his son Warren make a varied and excellent range of wines using fruit from four different vineyard regions: Elgin, the Jonkershoek Valley, Piekenierskloof and, the source of this wine, Groenekloof, near Darling on South Africa&rsquo;s Atlantic coast. This is one of two Neil Ellis &lsquo;Shirazes&rsquo; from Groenekloof (there&rsquo;s a Syrah in the winery&rsquo;s pricier premium vineyard-selection series) and there&rsquo;s also a third from cooler-climate Elgin. It is sourced from unirrigated, low-yielding bush vines on decomposed granite and clay soils and aged in larger, 500-litre French oak puncheons.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Tim Atkin MW</strong></em><br /> Lovely, aromatic, red-fruits nose. Subtle, refreshing and complex graphite-like mineral palate. Well balanced, with low-key winemaking. Meaty and complex.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Guy Harcourt-Wood</strong></em><br /> Rich, spicy, dark fruit palate. Complex, chalky tannins with balancing acidity. Warm, lingering finish.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><em><strong>Greg Sherwood MW</strong></em><br /> Dusty, chalky, graphite and woodsmoke notes. Minty, leafy sweet black plum and cherry spice. Textural and round, carries the alcohol well. Fragrant, sweet and complex. Palate complexity grows and grows.</p>

Nose reveals wood and clove spice, intense pepper and berries layered with savoury notes. Opulent, bright and round palate with good acid structure and a sleek, spicy finish.

Rich, opulent, blueberry, boot polish and sweet wood spice nose. Sweet plum on the palate with almost a bloody, iron-like core. Gravelly minerality integrates well; a class act.

Delicate violet nose gives way to a polished wine offering bright red fruit, fine peppered tannins and crunchy acidity. Has a wonderful Syrah typicity that’s complex and alluring; very Swartland.

Intense and brooding, with cassis layers intertwined with kelp, oyster shell and oak spice. Soft, pastel-like fruit flavours given structure by tightly wound supporting tannins; harmonious.

<p>Herbal, menthol nose plus a warm berry m&eacute;lange, on a round and hearty body. Cool, restrained, sleek and fine-boned; Old World restraint works well here. The length of the wine hints at future development.</p>

Herbaceous nose with sweet fruit nuances and slight reduction. Savoury cured meats, blood oranges and sweet red cherry fruits. Dense, powerful and lifted; Tulbagh does not get much better than this.

Exotic nose of fruit blackcurrant pastille fruits, tomato leaf, fresh mint and a hint of perfumed jasmine blossom. Lighter, refreshing, well balanced style with a warm, succulent appeal.

A lifted, perfumed northern Rhône style at its fragrant best. Smoked meats, pepper spice and red plum flavours. A classy Old World style with impressive balance of acidity and fruit.

Complex, savoury, herbal, meaty and aromatic. Palate follows with smoky, fireplace embers and vibrant, fresh red cherry fruits. Graceful yet firm tannins frame the fruit beautifully.

Rich, intense, focused blueberry pie, black cherry kirsch liqueur and a salty note. Pure and masculine, driven with dark fruit, savoury and iodine notes, which is all supported by firm tannins.

The nose is sweet and earthy with truffle notes and a palate full of vibrant, fresh berry flavours. Intense, energetic, concentrated and spicy with fine tannins; delicious.

Dark, brooding, earthy, forest-fruit nose. The palate is dominated by sweet cherry notes and vanilla essence. For Stellenbosch, this is a well-balanced, fresh style; complex, long and mineral.

Notes of blueberry muffins, crème brûlée and blackcurrant confit. Savoury spice, with pepper, fresh acidity, good balance and a long finish. The tannins are fine-grained here, adding support to the wine.

Cool, leafy, eucalyptus intensity. Dense palate dominated by dark, brooding fruit with hints of menthol. Puckering acidity and tight-knit tannins pull this together; a classy effort.

Intense, fragrant baked red apples, wood spice and dried cranberries. Midweight palate, which is balanced, elegant, refreshing, nuanced and long with grippy tannins.

Intense, lifted, opulent nose of red cherry, red plum and sweet cranberry confit. Dense, dark cherry fruit fill this big-bodied offering. Savoury and spicy, with midweight tannins and good length.