South African Chardonnay – panel tasting results
Find out what our expert judges thought about South African Chardonnay in this panel tasting from the April 2017 issue of Decanter magazine. And see some of the top wines...
After poor clones and imposter imports, this grape has come a long way in 30 years. When planted in the right place, South African Chardonnay can produce world-class wines, says Tim Atkin MW.
The scores:
120 wines tasted
Exceptional – 0
Outstanding – 7
Highly Recommended – 47
Recommended – 48
Commended – 9
Fair – 9
Poor – 0
Faulty – 0
The judges:
Tim Atkin MW, John Hoskins MW & Greg Sherwood MW
Click here to view the tasting notes and scores for all 120 South African Chardonnays tasted
The judges found South Africa’s stylistic reputation as being halfway between the Old World and New World was upheld in this tasting.
Hoskins said, ‘Producers have understood there’s a need to not be in the “old” New World of heavy, oaky Chardonnay, but neither should they be clichéd by launching into a ubiquitous “new” New World, modern, ultra-sulphidic style with 12.5% alcohol wines that lack joy and any Chardonnay character.’
Top five South African Chardonnays of the tasting:
Read more notes from the panel tasting below the wines.
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A late start
Chardonnay didn’t turn up in South Africa until the 1920s, when it was planted in an experimental vineyard at the University of Stellenbosch. The chosen clone was a flop, but that was the material that was propagated and planted in the 1970s, when interest in Chardonnay began to develop.
Since 1992, producers have been free to plant where they want in the Cape – they were subject to stringent quotas before that – and that has resulted in the development of the sort of cool-climate areas, especially in Elgin, the Overberg and Walker Bay, where Chardonnay performs at its best.
Star quality
‘Elgin and the Hemel-en-Aarde region are the stars,’ said Atkin. Sherwood added that coastal Overberg and Walker Bay also showed well in this tasting, as did pockets of Stellenbosch. On the latter, he said: ‘There is always great potential in Stellenbosch, but for Chardonnay it is very much vintage dependent’.
Hoskins said the uneven result for Stellenbosch could also be down to the fact it was a large and varied region with a higher concentration of big, commercial producers.
A lighter style
Atkin said it was encouraging to see ‘less new oak, alcohol, malolactic fermentation, batonnage and less-worked styles’, meaning the best wines showed excellent freshness, balance and elegance.
The only question mark the tasters had over the wines was their ageability. The 2015s, a critically acclaimed ‘supercharged’ vintage, ‘were surprisingly developed and looked like coming to their peak within a year or two’, said Hoskins. He’d advise consumers to drink these wines within the next five years. ‘By and large, these aren’t Chardonnays I’d be tucking away for 10 years in my cellar,’ agreed Atkin. ‘But in many ways that doesn’t matter – they’re delicious now!’
In terms of value, our experts were unanimous: these wines are incredibly well priced for the quality.
Edited for Decanter.com by James Button.
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Drinking well now and for the next 10 years...
Ataraxia, Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, Walker Bay, South Africa, 2015
A lovely pure peach stone nose with white flower notes, creamy but not heavy. Expertly judged oak flows across a wonderfully salty, briny palate. There is just enough biscuity richness, balanced by pithy citrus tang, mineral notes, crunchy acidity and fruit complexity.
2015
AtaraxiaHemel-en-Aarde Ridge
Thelema Mountain Vineyards, Sutherland Chardonnay, Elgin, South Africa, 2015
Struck match complexity on the nose, which mingles with green pears and dusty granitic minerality. It is dense, smoky and mineral. Spice and tightly-wound richness combines with excellent freshness underpinning the whole. There are rapier acids and it is super linear - this has lovely focus and a fine, tapering finish.
2015
Thelema Mountain Vineyards
Richard Kershaw, Clonal Selection Chardonnay, Elgin, South Africa, 2014
A dusty, briny nose unfolds celestially onto fleshy and opulent fruit. A splendid integration of oak aromatics lingers around the nose. The palate is focussed, with incredibly subtle oak and succinct acidity. Spices intertwine with minerals and swirl around chalky melon notes, which are everlasting.
2014
Richard Kershaw
Rustenberg, Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2015
An impressive Stellenbosch Chardonnay that wouldn’t look out of place in Corton-Charlemagne with its complex leesy character. A mosaic of smoke and flint adds considerable interest to this charming wine. Plush aromas of buttery lemons, biscuits and honeydew melon translate well onto the palate. This wine combines power with restraint, richness with acidity, due in part to expertly handled oak. The intensity is palpable, and the flavour and aroma characteristics last a lifetime in the mouth.
2015
Rustenberg
Paul Cluver, Seven Flags Chardonnay, Elgin, South Africa, 2015
Exotic aromas play with creamy melted lemon butter, herbs and citrus zest alongside layers of wet grey slate minerality. The palate has meringue elements alongside the lemon, and is well structured with excellent acidity and focus, as well as being playfully leesy and textured. It exudes grace and elegance.
2015
Paul Cluver
