From qvevri to glass: The fascinating journey of Georgian orange wine

Georgian orange wine – or amber wine – is traditionally made from native grapes in buried clay qvevri. The wines offer the structure of red, the brightness of white, and a sense of history that spans millennia. They are some of the world’s most distinctive and delicious wines for wine lovers to explore.

Where does orange wine sit between white, rosé and red?

Not so long ago, wine lists were divided between red, white, sparkling and sweet. In the past two decades, rosé and orange wines have joined that line-up, each developing a distinct following.

To understand orange wine, it helps to see where it sits on a spectrum. If modern reds and whites occupy opposite ends, rosé and orange meet near the centre. Rosé leans towards white: it’s a white wine made from red grapes, served and drunk like a white. Orange leans towards red: a red-style wine made from white grapes, best served and enjoyed like a light red.

Another name for orange wine is skin-contact or skin-macerated wine. In Georgia, qvevri-made orange wine has a history reaching back around 8,000 years, making it one of the world’s oldest continuously practiced winemaking traditions.

The defining element of an orange wine isn’t the colour but the method: fermenting and ageing white grapes with their skins, just as red wines are made, to extract tannin, texture and depth.

What is qvevri winemaking?

In Georgia, qvevri (pronounced KWEH-vree) is the vessel at the heart of traditional orange-wine production – although today only a small fraction of the country’s total wine output is made in qvevri.

Made by hand from clay, qvevri vary in size: the largest hold 1,500–2,000 litres and are typically used for fermentation, while smaller ones of around 800 litres are often reserved for maturation. Once buried in the ground, they provide natural temperature regulation throughout fermentation. This ancient practice is so integral to Georgian identity that qvevri winemaking is recognised by UNESCO as part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage.

The traditional process begins with crushing the grapes – often including the stems – and pouring everything into the qvevri. The must is stirred daily to ensure even extraction, and fermentation may last up to forty days. Once it finishes, the skins and seeds settle to the bottom, forming the chacha or gross lees. The qvevri is then sealed and left through the winter. In spring, the clay lid is broken open and the wine is drawn off, often into smaller qvevri for ageing.

This combination of buried clay vessels and indigenous Georgian grapes defines traditional-style Georgian orange wines. Similar wines can certainly be made in oak, concrete or stainless steel, and while they can still be excellent, arguably few replicate the qvevri’s distinctive texture and balance.

Major Georgian orange wine regions

Three regions dominate Georgian orange-wine production:

Kakheti, in the south-east, produces around three-quarters of the country’s wine. Grapes are often fermented with stems, giving deep, savoury styles with firm tannins and remarkable longevity.

Kartli, around Tbilisi, sits between Kakheti and Imereti and produces slightly lighter, more delicate wines with less grip but greater freshness.

Imereti, closer to the Black Sea, uses smaller qvevri and generally omits stems, yielding fresher, softer orange wines with a lighter touch.

Georgian grape varieties for orange wine

The tannin in orange wine comes from the skins and stems of the grape, so both grape variety and winemaking technique shape the final structure. Around thirty native Georgian grapes are grown commercially, but the most common for orange wines are Rkatsiteli, Kisi, Mtsvane, Khikhvi and Tsolikouri.

Rkatsiteli (er-kaht-see-TEH-lee) – Georgia’s most planted grape and one of its most versatile. Produces orange wines with balanced acidity, fine tannins and spice.

Kisi (KEE-see) – gentler and higher in acidity, with a more supple structure.

Mtsvane (mts-VAH-neh, Mtsvane Kakhuri) – bold and structured, with firm tannins and herbal, waxy notes that soften with age.

Khikhvi (k’HIK-vee) – rare but distinctive, marked by floral, honeyed characters.

Tsolikouri (tsoh-lee-KOO-ree) – the key variety in western Imereti, making graceful, refreshing orange wines with delicate fruit and bright acidity.

How to pair orange wine with food

Orange wines have flavours and textures unfamiliar to many western drinkers, and tasting one for the first time can feel like discovering a new cuisine. They behave more like light reds than whites, and the best orange wine food pairings reflect that mix of tannin, texture and savoury depth.

As a result, it can be hard to know how to serve Georgian orange wines or what to pair them with. In general, they work well with dishes that might suit either a fuller white or a light red.

Roast pork is an excellent choice, its richness complementing the dried-fruit and golden-apple notes typical of Kakhetian orange wines. Orange wines also pair beautifully with Georgian walnut-based dishes, as well as aubergine, tahini, pulses and chickpeas. They flatter gently spiced North African and Middle Eastern vegetable dishes like tagines and work well with nut-based or ghee-rich curries.

They can complement certain Asian cuisines, particularly those using miso, sesame or soy, but tend to clash with chilli or wasabi, which heighten tannin and dryness. Their medium to full body can overwhelm delicate seafood, although richer, spiced fish dishes such as Sardinian sarde a beccafico (stuffed sardines) can work well.

How to serve orange wine

Use large glasses and serve it cool but not fridge-cold, as you would a light red. Over-chilling emphasises tannin and mutes aroma – the bottle should feel cool to the touch, but not icy. The wines often open up with air, so take your time and you’ll get the most out of one of the world’s most unique and delicious wine styles.

Georgian orange wines: Nine to try

Try eight qvevri-aged and one steel-tank-aged orange wine from Georgia. All are available in the UK.

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