New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: Panel tasting results
Now more than ever, it pays to invest a little time in research before buying New Zealand Sauvignon. Our experts give their constructive criticism on this popular wine style and review almost 200 current releases.
Roger Jones, Freddy Bulmer and Cat Lomax tasted 197 wines with 6 Outstanding and 24 Highly recommended.
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: Panel tasting scores
Exceptional 0
Outstanding 6
Highly recommended 24
Recommended 72
Commended 74
Fair 21
Poor 0
Entry criteria: Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release dry, still white wines made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc from any region in New Zealand
For a long time, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has been ‘a safe banker’, as judge Cat Lomax said. ‘A wine you could pick up knowing exactly what to expect in the glass.’
The top-line results (see the scores below) suggest a solid tasting, but the recent-release wines came in for some strong criticism from our panel, over 2.5 days of judging.
We all agreed, on the basis of this tasting, that there was no longer a guarantee that expectations of ‘pungent aromatics and concentrated flavours’ would be met.
Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc panel tasting
Lower-priced examples, particularly from Marlborough, disappointed. We surmised that expanding plantings to the flat plains to increase production had delivered lacklustre, simple wines. In addition, early picking – also for commercial reasons – has necessitated an increased use of residual sugar to try to balance underripe wines, often resulting in artificial or cooked flavours, rather than fresh.
Freddy Bulmer said: ‘Too many wines were lacking texture and depth. Clean and correct, but with no personality and barely reflecting the grape.’ For consumers looking for a sub-£10 wine, these may tick a box, but they don’t do anything to differentiate New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from competing Chilean, South African or French examples.
But there were some positives, too. All six of our Outstanding wines had judicious barrel ageing. They earned their high marks by ‘pushing the boundaries’, said Lomax. They were not merely excellent examples of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but world-class white wines that would enhance any cellar or table. ‘It’s a clear argument for well-used oak,’ said Bulmer, ‘but also a sign that less commercially significant styles exhibit more personality and sophistication than those driven by market demand.’
The results may not paint vintage 2023 in a great light, with no Golds and only 12 Silvers among 115 wines entered, but Jones believes they will evolve well, particularly those with some oak ageing. ‘Be prepared to tuck them away for a few years, as at this price point they will become a worthwhile investment.’
For Marlborough (87% of entries), Bulmer noted: ‘It was clear which were the commodity wines and which were the quality wines. But the success and reputation of the genuine quality-first winemakers hinges on what the big commodity producers are putting out there. And my concern is that they are making wines with far less charm and drinking pleasure than they ever have done, which isn’t good news for premium producers, who will be unfairly tarred with the same brush.’
See all the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc wines from the panel tasting
It might send a potentially gloomy message, said Lomax, but there was a definite upside.
‘Smaller, quality-focused producers in Marlborough are still producing fantastic Sauvignon Blanc with all the hallmark aromas, flavours and depth that customers are looking for. So, there’s an opportunity for Decanter readers to really support the little guys and, by doing so, to maintain vibrancy in a region that could easily become ever-more dominated by commodity producers.’
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc panel tasting scores
The judges
Roger Jones is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade, as well as helping charities. He is a DWWA judge, with a focus on New World regions.
Freddy Bulmer is a wine and beer buyer for The Wine Society, responsible for its New Zealand range as well as Australia, Austria and Eastern Europe. A DWWA judge, he began his career in wine working for independent wine merchants in Yorkshire.
Cat Lomax is a wine and wine retail consultant who has held buying and senior trading roles across key premium wine retailers in the UK, including Laithwaites, Waitrose, Majestic and most recently Marks & Spencer.
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