Our Barolo Riserva 2020 recommendations: ‘Immediate harmony and instant enjoyment’
Michaela Morris picks out her top 20 Riservas from 2020, plus seven late releases available this year.
Barolo’s latest Riserva releases hail from the warm and docile 2020 vintage.
Like their annata counterparts, the wines exude a supple graciousness: even when they are backed with greater structure, the tannins generally remain sumptuous and velvety.
And even in this more approachable vintage, top bottlings like Bruno Giacosa’s Vigna Le Rocche Falletto, Massolino’s Vignarionda, and Palladino’s San Berardino encapsulate longevity and completeness.
Standing the test of time
Beyond the 2020s, there are several late-release Riservas worth seeking out.
Always a year behind, Cavallotto proposes an excellent ageworthy duo from 2019 with the Vignolo and Vigna San Giuseppe bottlings.
From the same vintage, Pecchenino comes out with its first Riserva since 2011.
‘Riserva is not a shortcut to raise prices,’ declares Giacomo Conterno at Aldo Conterno. ‘Instead, it must be a flagship that evokes place – a message in a bottle.’
Some wineries, including Aldo Conterno, Parusso and Vite Colte, choose to wait a full 10 years from harvest before releasing their Riserva, and these latest offerings revisit the exceptional 2016 vintage.
Aldo Conterno’s 2016 Gran Bussia is not an inexpensive missive to say the least, but it is certainly a Riserva that will stand the test of time.
Which Riserva to drink when?
Drink over the next 10 years
Bovio, De Rieumes, Barolo Riserva 2020
A traditional Riserva that achieves harmony through blending the best fruit from multiple parcels.
Livia Fontana, Barolo Riserva Vignolo 2020
This new bottling from Livia Fontana is comforting in its already mellowed character.
Prunotto, Vigna Colonnello, Barolo Riserva Bussia 2020
A single-vineyard Riserva, Colonnello emphasises elegance over power.
Enjoy in 10-15 years
Castello di Perno, Barolo Riserva Perno 2020
A singular and fascinating expression that successfully marries austerity with tertiary elements.
Palladino, Barolo Riserva San Bernardo 2020
An affordable, ageworthy and absolutely satisfying Riserva.
Carlo Revello & Figlio, Barolo Riserva Rocche dell'Annunziata 2020
A palpable step up for this up-and-coming estate.
Cellar for 15+ years
Elio Grasso, Rüncot Barolo Riserva 2020
One of the few 2020 Riserva that demands further cellaring before opening.
Bruno Giacosa, Vigna Le Rocche Barolo Riserva Falletto 2020
Tempting now, but this beauty should still have plenty to say 20 years on.
Elvio Cogno, Vigna Elena Barolo Riserva Ravera 2020
The estate’s top bottling is as sensual as it is seamless and complete.
Barolo Riserva 2020: Tasted & rated
In vintage order, highest score first
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Bruno Giacosa, Vigna Le Rocche Riserva, Barolo Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
Bruna Giacosa calls 2020 a classic vintage and one of the last in recent times to be harvested within its customary window. Picked on 20...
2020
Bruno GiacosaBarolo Falletto
Elvio Cogno, Vigna Elena Riserva, Barolo Ravera, Novello, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
Named after Elvio Cogno’s granddaughter, Vigna Elena was planted the same year she was born – 1991. An initial spiciness of fresh mint and sage...
2020
Elvio CognoBarolo Ravera
Borgogno, Riserva, Barolo Annunziata, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
Since his family acquired the Borgogno estate in 2008, Andrea Farinetti has extended the range with the addition of three MGA-specific Riserva wines from old-vine...
2020
BorgognoBarolo Annunziata
Borgogno, Riserva, Barolo Liste, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
Surrounded by forest, Liste is the coolest of Borgogno’s three Riserva sites and also boasts the oldest plantings – some dating back to 1946. In...
2020
BorgognoBarolo Liste
Massolino, Riserva, Barolo Vignarionda, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
With Vigna Rionda included in the estate’s full name, Massolino is virtually synonymous with this prestigious MGA. Beautifully conveying site and vintage equally, the 2020...
2020
MassolinoBarolo Vignarionda
Palladino, Riserva, Barolo San Bernardo, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
Palladino is the only estate crafting a single-site bottling from San Bernardo, and only ever as a Riserva in select vintages. To be fair, it...
2020
PalladinoBarolo San Bernardo
Borgogno, Riserva, Barolo Cannubi, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
37- to 49-year-old Lampia and Michet biotypes, as well as the pale skinned Nebbiolo Rosé, combine here. Distinctly purple in floral tones, violet, lilac and...
2020
BorgognoBarolo Cannubi
Carlo Revello & Figlio, Riserva, Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
The estate’s tiny slice of Rocche dell'Annunziata is located on the sub-district’s lower slope. It has been vinified as a Riserva since 2016. This 2020...
2020
Carlo Revello & FiglioBarolo Rocche dell'Annunziata
Castello di Perno, Riserva, Barolo Perno, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
With nine steeply sloping rows totalling 0.2ha, the estate’s share of the enormous Perno sub-district is truly just a sliver. They produce just enough to...
2020
Castello di PernoBarolo Perno
Castello di Verduno, Riserva, Barolo Monvigliero, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
Made from a tiny plot planted in 1967, the Monvigliero Riserva sees a long, 60-day submerged-cap maceration before ageing in a 25-hectolitre Slavonian oak cask....
2020
Castello di VerdunoBarolo Monvigliero
Marco Marengo, Riserva, Barolo Brunate, Barolo / La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
A selection from the family’s oldest planting in Brunate, upwards of 80 years old, the Riserva is aged in barriques, with a small percentage of...
2020
Marco MarengoBarolo Brunate
Rocche Costamagna, Riserva, Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
The Riserva is crafted from the estate’s highest plot in Rocche dell'Annunziata, where the vineyards tilt southeast. Along with its breed and clarity of intention,...
2020
Rocche CostamagnaBarolo Rocche dell'Annunziata
Elio Grasso, Rüncot Riserva, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
The 2ha Rüncot vineyard yields an uber-concentrated, massively structured wine in need of taming. To that end, Gianluca Grasso gives it a slow, gentle, 55-day...
2020
Elio GrassoBarolo
Ettore Germano, Riserva, Barolo Lazzarito, Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
Crafted from the estate’s oldest vines, with an average age of 90 years, the 2020 Riserva is a surprisingly gracious and accessible example of Lazzarito....
2020
Ettore GermanoBarolo Lazzarito
Josetta Saffirio, Millenovecento48 Riserva, Barolo Castelletto, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
From a tiny parcel planted in 1948, the Riserva sees a lengthy 90-day submerged-cap maceration followed by ageing in 15-hectolitre casks. A charismatic nose of...
2020
Josetta SaffirioBarolo Castelletto
Prunotto, Vigna Colonnello Riserva, Barolo Bussia, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
To differentiate from Prunotto’s Bussia annata bottling, winemaker Gianluca Torrengo uses 20%-30% stems (but not whole berries) for this single-vineyard Riserva. He says it gives...
2020
PrunottoBarolo Bussia
Bergadano, Riserva, Barolo Sarmassa, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
With vineyards in the MGAs of Bussia, Boiolo and Sarmassa, Bergadano singles out the latter for its Riserva. Still timid on the nose, the 2021...
2020
BergadanoBarolo Sarmassa
Bovio, De-Rieumes Riserva, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
Honouring the fourth generation’s great grandmother, Eugenia Brezza De Rieumes, this Riserva is made from a selection of the best grapes coming from Arborina, Gattera...
2020
BovioBarolo
Gagliasso, Riserva, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
Bearing the original label of the estate’s inaugural Barolo vintage (1967), the Riserva is a tribute to founder Michele Gagliasso. It blends grapes from the...
2020
GagliassoBarolo
Livia Fontana, Riserva, Barolo Vignolo, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, Italy, 2020
One of two Riservas now produced by Livia Fontana, this new wine is crafted from purchased fruit from the tiny MGA of Vignolo. The estate...
2020
Livia FontanaBarolo Vignolo
Cavallotto, Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva, Barolo Bricco Boschis, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, Italy, 2019
97
In the heart of Bricco Boschis, the 2.38ha San Giuseppe vineyard sits on a mix of sandstone and sandy marls. Crafted from the oldest vines, this Riserva simultaneously reaches earthy and mineral depths by way of dark and heady florals. Stunning fragrances of black tea, leather and crushed granite meld with pressed violet. Solid and sturdy, the palate sports a dense charge of blackcurrant and tart rhubarb. Sophisticated tannins are resolutely welded to the fruit. Patience is required for this to unfold.
2019
CavallottoBarolo Bricco Boschis
Cavallotto, Riserva, Barolo Vignolo, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, Italy, 2019
Sitting at lower overall elevations than Cavallotto’s San Giuseppe vineyard in Bricco Boschis, Vignolo boasts a similar southwestern exposure. It is characterised by limestone-rich white...
2019
CavallottoBarolo Vignolo
ForteMasso, Riserva, Barolo Castelletto, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2019
In the years it’s made, Fortemasso’s Riserva comes from its highest plot in Castelletto – upwards of 450m. It is the sandiest and windiest spot,...
2019
ForteMassoBarolo Castelletto
Pecchenino, Riserva, Barolo Le Coste di Monforte, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2019
The last vintage Pecchenino released a Riserva was 2011. The decision is based on harmony in the glass. Rather than being refined a long period...
2019
PeccheninoBarolo Le Coste di Monforte
Aldo Conterno, Granbussia Riserva, Barolo Bussia, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
The Conterno family now waits for 10 years following the harvest to release a Riserva. It is a co-fermentation of the three oldest plots in...
2016
Aldo ConternoBarolo Bussia
Parusso, Vigna Rocche Riserva, Barolo Bussia, Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
One of two single-vineyard Riservas, Vigna Rocche is essentially a continuation of the neighbouring steep, southeast-facing Rocche di Castiglione MGA. Even at 10 years of...
2016
ParussoBarolo Bussia
Vite Colte, Essenze Riserva, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 2016
Essenze represents the top tier at the Vite Colte cooperative, and the Riserva is only made in select years. Prior to this edition was 2015,...
2016
Vite ColteBarolo
