Bordeaux 2006: Which wines have aged well?
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Read Jane Anson's review of the Bordeaux 2006 vintage after re-tasting the wines a decade out from the harvest.
Bordeaux 2006 was an interesting year to assess at the critical 10-year juncture, not least because 2006 has developed a mixed reputation.
On the bright side, it has a classic, traditional character with strong tannins and long ageing potential. On the downside, it is regarded as backward and brooding. So how it is shaping up?
Go straight to the Bordeaux 2006 tasting notes above 90 points
First, a reminder of what the winemakers had to work with.
The weather during the 2006 growing season blew hot and cold, with strong heat in July and September, either side of a cool August and stormy mid-September, which saw botrytis spores blooming in select spots around the region. Inevitably this meant a race towards harvest in the unlucky areas.
Also just published: How Bordeaux 2008 wines taste now
September was pretty much cut right in half, with a great start that was good for the white grape harvest, and then a stormy second half that complicated things for the reds.
Pessac-Léognan was hardest hit by the late rains and risk of dilution meant many estates picked earlier than they might have wanted to, particularly those that are Merlot-dominant.
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Nice weather again at the end of September meant most Cabernets could wait, though rot started threatening due to light daily showers, meaning the latest ripening Cabernets didn’t really reach their potential.
Overall, Merlot on clay and Cabernet on the best gravels resisted well, and this was yet another year where money talked. Yields overall were usually lower than in 2005 (with a few notable exceptions such as Ormes de Pez), as winemakers had to be very selective with the grapes they used.
The best wines are concentrated, with balanced acidity and complex aromatics, but many had hard tannins and were unlovely at first showings during en primeur in 2007, and again in the first five years of opening.
At the 10-year mark, the best reds are still deeply coloured, with fresh yet complex fruit expression and high aromatics. 2006 is certainly a vintage to age, with all the old-school meaning of that term – in other words, not approachable young!
For all Bordeaux 2006 tasting notes above 90 points click here
Jane’s Exceptional and Outstanding wines
Wines were tasted in 2016.
See also
The three Léovilles of Bordeaux: Full profiles and ratings
California Cabernet 2014 panel tasting results
This article was originally published in Decanter magazine.
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Jane Anson was Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent until 2021 and has lived in the region since 2003. She writes a monthly wine column for Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post, and is the author of Bordeaux Legends: The 1855 First Growth Wines (also published in French as Elixirs). In addition, she has contributed to the Michelin guide to the Wine Regions of France and was the Bordeaux and Southwest France author of The Wine Opus and 1000 Great Wines That Won’t Cost a Fortune. An accredited wine teacher at the Bordeaux École du Vin, Anson holds a masters in publishing from University College London, and a tasting diploma from the Bordeaux faculty of oenology.
Roederer awards 2016: International Feature Writer of the Year
