Rather than merely watching the future unfold, Plaimont’s ethos is one of hope and possibility, founded on the belief that the answers to today’s winemaking and viticultural challenges lie in pairing modern technology with previous generations’ ancestral knowledge of the land and its vines.
Although the fruits of Plaimont’s efforts are ultimately seen in its wines, this ‘cooperative of cooperatives’ is equally focused on the natural and human resources that make them possible. Today, Plaimont brings together 600 families managing a total of 5,300ha across IGP Côtes de Gascogne, AOC Saint Mont, AOC Madiran, AOC Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh and AOC Jurançon. Plaimont’s work – and identity – is based on a collective effort to preserve and reinterpret the terroir of the French Pyrenees and its local varieties.
Looking back – and thinking ahead
In their quest, Plaimont producers have been prescient, anticipating many of the trends and challenges that have dominated the wine world in recent decades. Their approach and philosophy has been equally pioneering, combining research with a pragmatic, holistic understanding of environmental and social sustainability.
At Plaimont, all work is done with two timescales in mind – ‘tomorrow and the long-term,’ says Olivier Bourdet-Pees, managing director and head winemaker at Plaimont: ‘We need to have a viable business model, and make wines that people want to buy and drink, whilst also preserving our land and heritage for future generations.’
Bourdet-Pees explains how Plaimont’s guiding strategy has allowed it to tackle – and to an extent avoid – many of the issues producers are elsewhere only now beginning to address: water shortages, rising alcohol levels and changes in consumer demand. ‘The answer to many of these challenges is to be found in the past – in the wines our grandfathers produced and drank,’ continues Bourdet-Pees.
Trust in the land
To this end, Plaimont has focused attention and resources on extensive ampelographic research – much of which the cooperative has led and funded itself. By identifying and propagating ancestral varieties – once avoided due to their lower yields and difficult, late ripening – Plaimont has carefully selected a palette of grapes particularly well-suited to the viticultural demands of climate change.
Varieties such as Manseng Noir, Tardif, Arrufiac and Pinenc deliver a natural balance of alcohol, fruit and acid. At home in the French Pyrenees, these cépages show adaptivity and require fewer resources than some of their international counterparts, while also encapsulating Plaimont’s landscape and history.
‘We are able to produce drinkable, fresh wines that are naturally moderate in alcohol,’ explains Bourdet-Pees, ‘We have great belief in our terroir and indigenous varieties.’ This trust in the land is coupled with the unwavering sense of community that makes Plaimont a social project as much as a pioneering winemaking venture.
Eight Plaimont wines to try
Novel, Pacherenc du Vic-Bihl Sec 2023
93pts
This Plaimont classic shows yet another vintage marked by elegant savouriness, delicious texture and great ageing potential. Expressive and assertive on the mid-palate, with ample, fleshy flavours of honey-glazed almonds, russet apples and pear peel. A perfect companion for cheese platters.
Drink 2025-2035 | Alc 14%
Projoe, Saint Mont 2022
92pts
Aged in 5,000L oak foudres, this smart blend of Petit Courbu and Gros Manseng has a luscious, creamy texture, making it a moreish, very gastronomic wine. Lemon curd, yellow apple, ripe pear and frangipane fill the unctuous palate. Fragrant notes of dry white flowers, hay and linden linger on the persistent finish.
Drink 2025-2027 | Alc 13.5%
Yura, Jurançon Sec 2023
92pts
The first vintage of Yura fully overseen by Plaimont shows depth and perfumed nuance, both balanced by linear acidity and zesty focus. Linden, rose petals, toasted almonds, pear and greengage mingle on the palate, with a delicious hint of white truffle starting to emerge in the background.
Drink 2025-2035 | Alc 12.5%
Les Cépages Préservés, Saint Mont 2022
91pts
A classic blend of Petit Courbu, Arrufiac and Gros Manseng. One of the cooperative’s signature wines, it reflects Plaimont’s focus on indigenous varieties and genetic diversity. Showing lovely precision of flavour with almonds, dried apricot, pear peel and guava lind with fine minerality. A reductive touch adds depth and nuance.
Drink 2025-2029 | Alc 12%
Maestria, Madiran 2021
93pts
Classicism meets drinkability in this well-crafted Madiran, with its trademark intensity and savouriness offset by zesty freshness. With bramble, prune, cherry leaf and tapenade at the core, an undercurrent of blood orange and red apple adds energy and refreshing crunchiness, with lingering cherry pit and tobacco on the finish.
Drink 2025-2030 | Alc 13.5%
Apéro’Nautes, Madiran 2023
92pts
A surprising, seductive interpretation of Madiran with incredible energy and great purity of fruit. Plum, bramble and blackberry are outlined by smoky tannins and intense spiciness. A tail of chocolate and coffee beans adds a pleasant bitter depth. As the name suggests, this makes a great aperitif, served slightly chilled, while also pairing well with food.
Drink 2025-2027 | Alc 13.5%
Vin le Fleur Rouge Clair, Pyrénées Atlantiques 2024
91pts
A bright, sophisticated wine produced from Tannat with a touch of Cabernet Franc, showing lively spiciness over the crunchy cherry, raspberry, redcurrant and pomegranate fruit. Gentle, refreshing herbaceousness on the finish. A quintessential vin de soif, best enjoyed slightly chilled.
Drink 2025-2026 | Alc 12%
Manseng Noir, Côtes de Gascogne 2024
89pts
This expressive Manseng Noir showcases the variety’s full potential. Juicy blackcurrant, bramble and red cherry are sprinkled with black pepper, nutmeg and oregano. The luscious fruit depth is paired with restrained alcohol, firm acid and vibrant, zesty tannins for a refreshing, uplifting pour.
Drink 2025-2028 | Alc 11.5%
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Content written and compiled by the Decanter Team
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