Dalmatia: where to enjoy the stillness of fjaka

The view from Stina Winery: crumbly buildings and blue water in the background — The view from Stina Winery.

(Image credit: Stina Winery)

published 25 March 2026

Unique to Dalmatia, fjaka (pronounced fyah-kah) is a state of dreamy lethargy, induced by the early-afternoon summer heat. Often mistaken for laziness, locals regard it as a form of mindful stillness – a blissful surrender to fatigue, when time slows down and conversations soften. Exposed to 2,600-2,800 hours of sunshine a year, Dalmatia celebrates fjaka as a quiet rebellion against fast- paced modern living, when retiring to sit in the shade brings unexpected clarity and an emotional reset.

The dreamiest locations to welcome fjaka

Grgi&#263; winery &ndash; a collection of buildings surrounded by cliffs and the sea — Grgić winery in Trstenik, Pelješac peninsula.

Grgić Winery Trstenik, Pelješac peninsula grgic-vina.com

Perched on a tiny promontory between two turquoise coves, the Grgić Winery has a stone terrace affording sublime Adriatic views, with the island of Mljet rising into the horizon. Pelješac’s steep limestone slopes produce some of Dalmatia’s best reds – come here to indulge in fjaka while sipping Grgić’s superb red Plavac Mali or white Pošip.

Buildings and vines at sunset, with sea and mountains in the background — Rizman winery, Pelješac peninsula, southern Croatia.

Rizman Winery near Klek, Komarna rizman.com.hr

High above the sea, on the coast between Dubrovnik and Split, Rizman commands delightful views onto Pelješac and the spectacular cable-stayed Pelješac Bridge. Sample Rizman’s organic wines made from native varieties Plavac Mali, Tribidrag and Pošip, on a terrace shaded by white awnings. They also have four sea-view rooms, should you decide to stay the night.

View across water to buildings and a church and mountains in the background — View from Hvar Hills Wine Bar, Split.

Hvar Hills Wine Bar Split hvarhills.com

On Split’s seafront promenade, near the ACI marina, Hvar Hills Wine Bar afford timeless views of Diocletian’s Palace and the cathedral belltower, backed by the rugged Dinaric Alps. With contemporary lounge furniture and a terrace lined by potted olive trees, it offers thematic wine tasting, with six labels showcasing local grapes from the island of Hvar, including white Bogdanuša from Stari Grad Plain.

A cellar with oak barrels around the room and a table in the middle — Restaurant Bilo Idro, Hvar, part of the renowned Zlatan Otok winery

Restaurant Bilo Idro Sveta Nedilja, island of Hvar zlatanotok.hr

On Hvar’s remote sun-soaked south coast, taste Zlatan Otok’s powerful red Plavac Mali, made from grapes harvested by hand and aged in French oak. The Bilo Idro restaurant serves Dalmatian specialities too, with glorious views onto Šćedro and Korčula across the water. There are moorings out front in a small marina, should you be exploring Dalmatia by yacht.