30 Provence wines for Rhône lovers to seek out

The main grapes are largely the same as the southern Rhône, but the style of Provence reds is often slimmer.

Their bone structure is more defined, they aren’t as rich and generous.

This is the case even if you compare Châteauneuf and Bandol, the big beasts of their respective regions.

They both display red and black fruits when young, but while Châteauneuf has tanned, oiled muscles, Bandol has the sturdy frame of the long distance runner; you can see its veins and sinews.

They have their own unique flavour profiles of course, but both Bandol and Châteauneuf share many other characteristics.

They both have long and fascinating histories; they create peerless excellence with their chosen variety (Grenache in Châteauneuf, Mourvèdre in Bandol); they make wines that can age for decades.

Today Bandol makes 74% rosé and just 19% red. The siren call of Provence pinks, so easy to make and sell, has been impossible for local winemakers to resist.

But Bandol’s heart beats red; when the trend for rosé subsides, I predict these proportions will eventually reverse.

Elsewhere in Provence, fans of red Rhône will find much to enjoy in Les Baux de Provence and the surrounding IGP Alpilles.

The inclusion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend adds a herbal twist, and it works; the overall spirit however is reassuringly Mediterranean.

From the Big Three, the wines of Château Vignelaure, Domaine Richeaume and Château Revelette would appeal to Rhône lovers, across all colours.

Let’s be honest, there’s comparatively little rosé of note in the Rhône – apart from Tavel.

Stylistically it has nothing in common with the elegant, pale pinks that have put Provence on the map. Tavel is darker and more structured.

But there is one particular style of Provençal rosé that shares Tavel’s power, food-friendliness and strong personality – and again, it’s Bandol.

Bandol is one of the great terroirs of France; whether you’re using its star grape to make rosé or red, stunning wines of great character will result.

There aren’t many rosés that improve with age, but Tavel and Bandol are both examples.

In fact, while the world clamours for the latest vintage of Provence rosé, those from Bandol are usually even better after a year (or more) in bottle.

The same can be true of the rosés of Palette, a tiny appellation just 5km east of Aix-en-Provence.

Like Bandol, most are built around Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault, and the limestone soil imparts tension and finesse.

Outside these two appellations, the profound rosés of Clos Cibonne, which venerate the local Tibouren grape, are also likely to interest lovers of Tavel.

Rolle, aka Vermentino, is the most important white grape in Provence, and it plays a leading part in most of its white wines.

This grape has a strong citrusy flavour profile that’s largely absent in Rhône whites, making for a clear difference in regional style.

When it takes a back seat, there’s more crossover between the whites of Provence and Rhône.

Is Bandol a good bet? Not this time.

The main grapes might be familiar to Rhône fans – Clairette, Bourboulenc and Ugni Blanc – and though the wines are similarly full-bodied, they have an exotic, fresh aroma all of their own.

The best can be engaging, but this combination of opulent body and zesty aroma can be jarring.

Cassis is the only appellation in Provence that makes mostly white wine, majoring in Clairette and Marsanne.

It’s the only region outside the northern Rhône that makes a Marsanne worth seeking out, but don’t expect anything like St-Joseph or Hermitage.

They are lighter in style with a brightness and salinity not found further north; all the better to match with the local seafood.

The whites of Les Baux de Provence are also considerably more rhodanien, mixing Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Clairette alongside Rolle. This is an excellent terroir for whites.

And although the whites of Palette have no particular kinship with the Rhône, they deserve a special mention for their sheer refinement and energy.