Provence whites: Panel tasting results

Henning Hoesch, who bought this 65ha estate in 1972 and built the house and cellar, was a pioneer in organic viticulture, and today the estate is run by his son Sylvain. This is a blend of 67% Grenache Blanc, 19% Rolle (Vermentino) and 14% Viognier, initially fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, completing the process partly in clay amphorae and partly in old foudres. The wine is rested on its lees, without batonnage, over the winter before bottling with no addition of SO2 and only a very light filtration. Certified organic. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Powerful and intense with textured fruit and deep concentration. An exciting wine with layers of salinity, herbal notes and peach.Natasha Hughes MW: Dense fruit, grapefruit pith, pepper and herbs. A twist of bitters on the long finish. Not a pretty-pretty wine and all the better for it. Joanna Simon: Fresh, mineral nose. Spicy palate: pepper, wet rocks and peachy fruit. A great food wine.

Having rented out Château Miraval to Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie in 2008, its owner Tom Bove bought Bomont de Cormeil, a small estate at 550m in the far north of Provence. The climate reminded Bove of Côte-Rôtie, so he replanted the estate with Viognier and Syrah across 7ha. For this wine, Viognier grapes were lightly pressed, with vinification conducted partly in new French oak barrels, and the wine only lightly fined and clarified by natural sedimentation before bottling. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Deliciously perfumed, rich and weighty. Lavender minerality, fine acidity. Mouthwatering and fragrant. Natasha Hughes MW: Opulent, heady. Apricot, ginger and lemongrass. Oak isn't overdone. Creamy texture, nicely balanced, with good varietal typicity. A rousing finish. Joanna Simon: Peach and freesia aromas with vanilla oak. Fresh, mouth filling palate lifted by oak spice, orange blossom and nicely tuned acidity. Balanced.

Purchased by Bruno Paillard (of the Champagne house) in 1995, this certified-organic estate is located near the village of St-Antonin-du-Var, some 30km from the coast. Its 27ha of vineyards are divided across 15 sites and interspersed with wooded hillsides, on soils of primarily gravelly limestone and clay. Made from 100% Rolle (Vermentino) harvested in two passes, fermentation takes place in 300-litre French oak barrels with only light to medium toasting, followed by 10 months’ maturation on the lees for added texture and complexity. Malolactic fermentation is avoided, in order to retain freshness. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Creamy, ripe white fruit and fresh, saline lemon acidity. This is powerful, intense, but also well balanced. Natasha Hughes MW: Plentiful oak but integrated (just). Shows an element of development. Lemon curd, dried apricots, lanolin. Lively acid and a long finish. Ageing well. Joanna Simon: Fragrant, spicy and lemony, in harmony with subtle, polished oak. Energetic and poised.

This central Provence estate was remodelled in 1989 by Tom Bove (owner of Château Miraval, 1992-2011), creating a 60ha terraced amphitheatre of vines around the wine cellar. Certified organic in 2016, it was bought in 2020 by Michel Reybier (owner of Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux and Champagne Jeeper), who enlarged it two years later with the purchase of a 45ha neighbouring estate. The 2023 blends 79% Rolle (Vermentino), harvested late to ensure concentration, and 21% Semillon, raised and matured in stainless steel tanks on its lees. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Sweet honeyed peaches, honeysuckle, sweet lemons and a touch of creamy saffron. Austere mineral acidity, vibrantly youthful. Natasha Hughes MW: Almond cream, orange blossom, spice, quince. Lively acid provides balance. There’s real energy and focus here. A stony, mineral character on the long finish. Joanna Simon: Fresh lemon, lime and herbs on the nose. Lemony fruit with a floral – rose petal – note and lanolin texture on the palate.

Palette, a 40ha enclave within Coteaux d’Aix, was originally created by Jean Rougier of Château Simone. Almost 200 years on, the family still runs the estate, which provides a snapshot of old Provence character: vineyards include many old and experimental varieties planted around the time of phylloxera. Soils consist largely of limestone scree with clays, pebbles and gravels. 80% Clairette blended with 10% Grenache Blanc and small portions of Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc and Muscat fermented in small foudres where it rests for eight months before ageing for a year in oak barriques. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Rich, buttery aromas. Concentrated saline and citrus acidity, a touch of margarita lime and salt. Acidity has an almost mouth puckering dryness on the finish after the ripe fruit. Natasha Hughes MW: Camomile, orange blossom, oolong tea and subtle oak spice. Nutty development. Balance of primary and tertiary characters. Bright acidity and a long finish. Joanna Simon: Intense, honeyed citrus fruit wrapped in creamy oak. There’s plenty of power and weight, but the acidity provides balance. Layered, evolved and complex, but just a little heavy and oaky.

A family-run estate for more than 120 years, located in the amphitheatre of vines perched on the limestone cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean. Today the fourth and fifth generations, Nicolas and Emile Bontoux, are running the estate. This cuvée is made from 40% Marsanne, 40% Ugni Blanc and 20% Clairette. The destemmed grapes are cooled to 10°C then pressed slowly to preserve aromatic freshness. The varieties are fermented separately in a mix of oak and acacia barrels, then matured for 12 months on fine lees in the same barrels. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Darker gold in colour. A honeyed nose and a gritty texture to the palate, which offers very briny lime complexity. Piercing minerality, structured and complex notes of citrus, garrigue and olives. Natasha Hughes MW: Apples, lemon zest, gentle spice and stony minerality. This is nicely balanced, with lively acidity, a subtle spice note and good length. Joanna Simon: Creamy and rounded. Light apple fruit combined with peppery spice and soft but fluent acidity. Savoury, layered.

When Laurence Lilamand Bateman inherited the property at St-Rémy de Provence in 2016, she and her husband Benoît Bateman added a vineyard to the existing estate of olive trees. The first vintage was in 2019 and the estate will be certified biodynamic from the 2025 vintage. The grapes – in 2023 a blend of 45% Rolle, 34% Grenache Blanc and 21% Roussanne – began fermentation in stainless steel tanks, completing it in a combination of concrete eggs, stoneware jars and demi-muids, with regular batonnage, returning to the stainless steel for maturation. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Delicate peach and saffron aromas. Honeyed fruit with a saline, herbal edge. Vibrant freshness with a lovely juxtaposition of ripe honeyed fruit and salted lemons. Natasha Hughes MW: Good concentration of apricot fruit with a hint of smoke and aniseed. Zesty acidity. Potent and quite weighty. Joanna Simon: Fresh custard apple and green plum. Creamy, chalky vanilla notes with ripe green fruit and a touch of pepper. Mineral, textural, layered.

Bought in 2006 by Jacqueline Guichot Bertin, a former pharmacist in Paris, Saint-Ser has the highest, coolest vineyards in the appellation, at around 420m, and the vines also benefit from a southerly exposure. The domaine has been biodynamic since 2012, achieving certification in 2017. For this cuvée, Rolle is harvested when slightly overripe to obtain more roundness in the wine, which is fermented with indigenous yeasts in stoneware jars, then matured in the same containers, which Guichot believes gives better aromatics and expression of terroir. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Creamy, richly scented lemons. A gorgeous intensity of fruit, lovely texture and fine mineral acidity. Natasha Hughes MW: Juicy pears, quince, a little floral note. Rounded texture but brisk acid. Some fennel on the long finish. Real complexity and stony minerality. Oak is subtle and complementary. Joanna Simon: Fresh, delicate, floral and leafy aromas. A flowery, pure fruit palate with a fine, powdery texture. The long finish is soft, saline and slightly honeyed, with a lingering citrus peel note.

Having trained as a lawyer in Paris, in 1988, Dominique Hauvette acquired 2ha of vines on the north-facing slopes of Les Alpilles in St-Rémy-de Provence, between Avignon and Arles. The estate has since grown to just under 18ha, and is certified organic and farmed biodynamically. Exposed to the north, the clay-limestone soils are rich in fossil shells with a high stony load and the vines are 20-70 years old. The 2017 blend contains 40% Marsanne, 30% Roussanne and 30% Clairette. It was fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in concrete eggs then bottled with minimal sulphur and no fining or filtration. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Dark gold. Nice fresh fruit, piercing citrus acidity and an almost chalky texture. Natasha Hughes MW: Lively acidity drives the palate and long finish. Stone fruit, pears, herbs. Some mid-palate texture and a lick of spice. Limpid and bright. Joanna Simon: A complex, mature nose: dried peach, pear, oak spice. Textured, supple, mediumweight palate. Long and mineral with a lemon pith finish.

In 1970, Raymond (Ray) Constant moved from grape-growing to winemaking and built a cellar. Joined by his wife Jeanne (Jane; hence the domaine’s name) and son Alain, the estate grew, all the while making extremely traditional Bandol wines. Today, Alain’s sons Julien and Vincent have taken over, together managing to combine traditional winemaking with a more modern approach. All of the work in the vineyards is done manually. For this cuvée, 90% Clairette and 10% Ugni Blanc from vines up to 80 years old are fermented together, in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The estate has been certified organic since 2009. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Creamy herbal aromas. Toffee apples on the palate. Rich, complex and lush fruit with finely textured length and vibrant mineral acidity. Natasha Hughes MW: Limpid, textural wine with notes of baked pears, fennel, salted preserved lemons. Brisk, long and quite complex. Joanna Simon: Restrained aromas. Delicate, mineral and spicy palate with apple and lemon zing. Fine-boned structure. Just beginning to develop texture. Elegant.

Brothers Paul and Pierre Bunan relocated to Provence in 1961, buying the quintessential Provençal vineyard Moulin des Costes, followed by neighbouring Mas and Château de la Rouvière in 1969, then Domaine Bélouvé in 1978. Today, the next generation of four cousins run the estates, and winemaker Philippe Bunan uses the old-vine Clairette here to push the limits of what the variety can achieve. From the certified-organic estate’s low-terraced, south-facing slopes, this wine is 90% Clairette with 10% Ugni Blanc, fermented in stainless steel tanks, where it rests until bottling the following May. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Floral, honeyed orchard fruit, salted honey, baked quince and mouth watering juiciness. Natasha Hughes MW: A rounded, generous mid-palate with stone fruit, canned pineapple and just a touch of spice. This is as much about texture as it is about fruit. A long finish. Poised. Joanna Simon: Gently aromatic, orange blossom and zest. Structured but fine-boned. Sophisticated creaminess balanced by acidity. All of a piece.

This coastal vineyard near La Londe-les-Maures has long been highly regarded for its white wines, with Semillon taking a starring role and the schist soils and maritime climate reputedly lending a saline minerality to the wines. 70% Semillon, 30% Rolle, aged for four to six months using wooden foudres with regular batonnage to help impart fat and length to the palate and stabilise the acidity and colour. The final blend is determined in December following the vintage, then clarification using bentonite clay and bottling is carried out from the February. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Fresh lemons. Creamy, salty, intense and mouthwatering. Lifted by some pretty blue florals and waxy white blossom. Natasha Hughes MW: Smoky, spicy, toasty oak. Fleshy mid-palate, almost syrupy in texture. A hint of struck match. Generous, ripe stone fruit, orange blossom. Long. Good balance. Joanna Simon: Zesty lemon curd and dried flowers. Lanolin, bitter lemon and green olive tapenade on the palate. Bitter herbs and lemon. Characterful and unusual.

Lively quince, baked pear, spice and orange blossom. Focused and fresh. Richly textured, with creamy white fruit, toasty oak and a leesy depth. Smoky hints add complexity, leading to a fresh, mineral finish.

Ripe apple, fennel and apple blossom with a hint of spiced ginger nut biscuit. Vibrantly fresh, crisp green apples, candied citrus and elegant oak. A lively, zesty finish with honeyed richness and stony minerality. Lingers beautifully.

Delicate floral aromas, polished oak and spicy fruit. Creamy pineapple with vibrant, crisp green apple, zesty preserved lemon and fine minerality. Rounded, with a long, salty, structured finish.

Fresh lemon and subtle almond aromas. Layered and balanced, with pear and citrus fruit. Waxy, nutty and complex. Saline freshness, fine tannins and stony minerality lead to a long, precise finish.

Beautifully perfumed with lavender, violets and fresh lemon acidity. Creamy, spicy palate reveals apple, baked quince and sweet resin. A stony, herbal-mineral finish adds complexity and intrigue.

Sweet honeyed aromas with hints of baked apples and spice. Beautifully textured, blending creamy caramel, vibrant lime acidity and subtle vanilla. A lively mineral edge and bright finish.

Delicate floral and spicy aromas with apricot and ginger. Overripe stone fruit, balanced by refreshing acidity. Well-integrated oak adds depth, leading to a nicely perfumed finish with a subtle herbal lift.

Sweet caramel and blue violet aromas with a touch of acacia blossom. Structured and mineral-driven, baked pears, pineapple and gentle spice. Bright lavender, textural richness and a balanced, lingering finish.

Powerful, oaky nose balanced by juicy white peach and a touch of smoky lapsang souchong. Creamy palate with rich texture and vibrant acidity, leading to a stony, mineral finish with great length.

Toasty, creamy aromas, ripe white peach and a touch of vanilla. The palate is textured, with lemon-edged fruit, dried herbs and almonds, balanced by fresh acidity and a perfumed finish.

Stone fruit with green almonds and a hint of petrol. Vibrant, with greengage, peach and peppery spice, complemented by a chewy texture, fresh acidity and a complex, mouthwatering finish with liquorice notes.

Ripe orchard fruit aromas with hints of Mirabelle plum and white peach. Fleshy and supple, showcasing nutty white pears, ginger and apricot. Mouthwatering saline acidity and a long, textured finish.

Alpine flowers, herbs and mineral hints. Floral, lifted palate, offering sweet tangerine and nougat, with a polished texture, refined orange-zest acidity and a long, elegant finish.

Marzipan and sweet, creamy vanilla oak aromas. Opulent, with ripe peaches, honeyed nougat and tangerine, balanced by a gentle texture and fresh, spicy finish.

Briny, creamy fruit with a savoury, spicy palate. Fleshy peach and apricot balanced by fresh acidity. Textured and round, with fine length and subtle complexity.

Perfumed citrus with a hint of custard apple. Creamy palate with rich peach and apricot pit, balanced by zingy acidity and a subtly bitter finish, developing structure and texture with each sip.

Creamy custard and fragrant jasmine aromas. Textured palate layered with white stone fruit, salted lemons and a hint of vanilla. Bright acidity and a twist of bitter herbs add complexity and freshness to the finish.