Costières de Nîmes: The Rhône’s Wild West

Readers of this column might remember a story about Château L’Ermite d’Auzan in Costières de Nîmes, and how it successfully uses homemade essential oils instead of copper to fight disease.

It turns out this isn’t the only example of how this Southern Rhône appellation is a hotbed of experimentation.

Producers are trialling a raft of new varieties and fresh approaches in the vineyard.

Once considered a brackish backwater, Costières de Nîmes is fast becoming one of the most dynamic appellations in the Rhône.

Rhône-sur-Mer

Costières de Nîmes is one of the 11 Rhône Valley appellations that surround the central southern Côtes-du-Rhône growing area.

Though considered part of the Rhône family, all have an independent appellation rulebook and unique character.

The word costières means ‘little hills’, and this pebbly coastal appellation is made up of several vast banks of galets roulés.

It borders the Camargue regional nature park, with its wild horses, bulls and flamingos. It shares some soils and grapes with Châteauneuf to the north, but it feels like a different world.

Despite the quality of some of the wines, I’ve always detected something of an inferiority complex when visiting.

But a recent visit by legendary ‘oenogeologist’ Georges Truc [please link] has given local growers confidence in their terroir.

Cyril Marès of Mas Carlot says, ‘it helped cure our imposter syndrome’.

Viva la VIFA

The Rhône Valley has more grapes than most regions to play with, but that’s not stopping them from testing out some new ones – mainly to combat disease and climate change.

These are known as VIFAs (short for Variétés d'Intérêt à Fin d'Adapatation.)

Several Rhône appellations are doing this. The main AOC Côtes-du-Rhône, for example, is trying out whites Carignan Blanc, Floréal, Rolle (a.k.a. Vermentino) and red Vidoc.

I’m yet to taste a stunning Vidoc, so I’m pleased to see that Costières de Nîmes has selected a more promising line up.

The reds on trial are Italy’s Montepulciano and Spain’s Graciano (known locally as Morrastel). Both are at their limit of ripening here and have a track record of great things back home.

Whites varieties are Piquepoul Blanc and Tourbat (a.k.a. Malvoisie de Roussillon), both useful for their high acid levels.

There’s also the pink-skinned Souvignier Gris, a semi-aromatic grape with good acidity and low alcohol.

Rules around VIFAs are strict. Estates can plant up to 5% of their vineyard area with them, and individual wines can contain up to 10% in the final blend.

After a trial period of 10 years, appellation authorities will decide whether or not to embrace them more fully.

Organic -> biodynamic -> regenerative

Costières de Nîmes is a huge appellation – it makes 5% of all the wine produced in the Rhône Valley each year.

But it’s still relatively strong on sustainability – in 2024, 29% of production was certified organic or biodynamic (the regional average is 23%).

Many of the best estates farm biodynamically, such as Château Beaubois, Château Mourgues du Grès and Terre des Chardons.

Leading organic producers include Mas Carlot, Château Saint Cyrgues, L’Ermite D’Auzan, Les Vignerons d'Estézargues and Château de Montfrin.

The Gassier family, however, goes one step further. Michel Gassier’s two estates – Domaine Gassier and Château de Nages – were the first in France to be certified regenerative, in 2023.

There is no established definition of regenerative viticulture, but essentially it’s an approach which aims to restore and enhance soil health, biodiversity, local ecosystems and communities.

Michel’s daughter Isabel Gassier describes it as “a series of farming practices and social commitments”.

One such practice is adopting a ‘no till’ approach to vineyards to avoid disrupting underground fungi networks.

Instead, cover crops are grown to reduce erosion, aid water infiltration and provide feed for grazing animals.

Another undertaking is planting trees and hedgerows between parcels of vines to provide habitat for birds and animals. They prey on undesirable insects, reducing the need for insecticide.

They’ve also built high-quality lodging for seasonal workers, and share 15% of their profits with their employees.

‘It’s not a diploma, it’s perpetual improvement… based on observation and common sense,’ says Michael. ‘It encompasses everything that agriculture needs to think about.’

Does farming regeneratively make a difference to how the wines taste? With so many other variables it’s hard to say.

But one thing’s for certain – the Gassier family are now making thrilling, Cru-quality red and white Costières de Nîmes that serve as a beacon for the appellation.

Future perfect

As with any appellation of this size, it’s hard to generalise about quality.

There is some talk of further refining the map to create a kind of ‘Costières de Nîmes Villages’. Perhaps that will bring more focus.

Currently there are over 100 producers, but only a small minority produce wines to shout about. But they are testimony to this land’s potential.

By trialling new varieties and farming techniques they’re readying themselves for an uncertain future. But, in the short term at least, things have never looked brighter.

Wines worth trying from the Rhône’s wild west

Related articles