Grower Champagnes
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Champagne resident and expert Peter Liem picks out 10 top grower Champagnes to try.

Grower Champagnes, where the wine is produced by the same estate that owns the vineyards, are growing in popularity but still get much less attention than the more famous houses.

Here are ten examples worth seeking out, as chosen by expert Peter Liem.

10 top grower Champagnes to try:


Recent vintages

2012 A small crop of excellent wines, combining ripeness and structure

2011 Difficult conditions created uneven wines

2010 A complicated vintage, requiring careful selection

2009 Warm and ripe, giving full, fruity Champagnes

2008 Outstanding wines, featuring both high ripeness and high acidity

2007 An uneven vintage, but some delightful results


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Tarlant, La Vigne d’Or Blanc de Meuniers Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2002

My wines

95

This single-vineyard Champagne comes from a parcel of 60-year-old Meunier vines, and in its velvety texture and generous build, it keenly reflects its Marne Valley terroir. For all its richness, it remains lively and highly focused, feeling long, complex and complete.

2002

ChampagneFrance

Tarlant

Chartogne-Taillet, Brut, Champagne, France, 2008

My wines

94

From the clay-rich vineyard of Les Couarres, this blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay combines ripe fruit with zesty acidity. While its intensity of flavour is alluring now, its structure emphasises its suitability for long ageing.

2008

ChampagneFrance

Chartogne-Taillet

David Léclapart, L’Artiste Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru Extra Brut, Champagne, France, 2007

My wines

94

This comes from 30- to 50-year-old Chardonnay vines in the village of Trépail, and it is always the product of a single harvest with no reserve wine used (a code on the back label indicates the year). It is partially fermented in barrel, accentuating its complex depth and its lively, chalk-driven finesse.

2007

ChampagneFrance

David Léclapart

Benoît Lahaye, Blanc de Noirs Brut, Champagne, France

My wines

93

Made entirely from Pinot Noir, this is a vivid, energetic Champagne, which shows the power and ripeness of the fruit grown in its southfacing vineyards, while also demonstrating a sophisticated elegance and poise. Its ample, red-fruit fragrance persists with great length, all anchored by chalky minerality.

ChampagneFrance

Benoît Lahaye

Roses de Jeanne, Blanc de Noirs Brut, Champagne, France, 2012

My wines
Locked score

From a south-facing parcel of Pinot Noir, planted in 1974, this is rich and ripe, with a vibrant, mouthfilling depth of fruit. It’s exuberant without...

2012

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Roses de Jeanne

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Marie-Courtin, Concordance Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut, Champagne, France

My wines

91

This unusual Champagne is made entirely without the addition of sulphur, which seems to bring more vibrancy and vivacity to its fruit, at least in the short term. Made from old Pinot Noir vines, it is complex, energetic and lengthy, with an expansive fragrance.

ChampagneFrance

Marie-Courtin

Vilmart & Cie, Grand Cellier Brut 1er Cru, Champagne, France

My wines

91

This blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir is vinified entirely in the larger size oak barrels known as foudres, and it’s typically a blend of three vintages. Rich in texture yet elegantly carried, and it ages with remarkable grace.

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Vilmart & Cie

Pierre Péters, Les Chétillons Cuvée Spéciale Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France, 2007

My wines

90

This single-vineyard Champagne comes from Chardonnay vines up to 80 years old in one of Le Mesnil’s most renowned sites. While it’s voluptuous and complex, it remains lively and taut thanks to firm acidity and a piercing, chalky minerality. Talcum powder, caramel, lemon and roasted apples on the nose. The palate is brightly acidic with buttery brioche tones and a fine mousse. Very fresh for its age with good focus and elegance.

2007

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Pierre Péters

Agrapart, Minéral Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Côte des Blancs, Champagne, France, 2008

My wines

90

Made from 40-year-old Chardonnay vines in two parcels: Le Champ Bouton in Avize and Bionnes in Cramant, this is rich in depth yet sleek in structure, showing an elegantly refined texture and long, chalk-infused aromas on the finish.

2008

Côte des BlancsFrance

Agrapart

Marc Hébrart, Brut Rosé 1er Cru, Champagne, France

My wines

90

Equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, sourced from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, this encases its exuberant fruit within a sleek, racy structure, feeling succulently ripe yet imparting an elegant impression, thanks to its silky texture and graceful overall balance.

ChampagneFrance

Marc Hébrart

Peter Liem
Liem is an American wine writer and author of ,, an award-winning online guide to the wines and wine producers of ,.