Top South American Chardonnay under £20
There’s a world of Chardonnay out there to try, and while it will always be subject to differing opinions, it remains the world’s favourite white wine grape. Peter Richards MW focused on quality and value to pick his 20 top Chardonnays from around South America.
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According to the US parenting website BabyCenter, the girl’s name Chardonnay saw its usage peak in the 1990s, at 47 babies per million. It has declined since, to the point where www.parents.com ranked it the fourth worst baby name of 2019, stating: ‘Only next-level wine moms need consider this one.’
That’s Chardonnay: ubiquitous yet often invisible, fashion victim and victim of fashion. According to Kym Anderson’s Which Winegrape Varieties are Grown Where? (University of Adelaide Press, 2013), the worldwide Chardonnay vineyard nearly trebled between 1990 and 2010. An OIV study in 2017 cited Chardonnay as the fifth most widely planted wine grape variety in the world, with an area of 211,000 hectares globally.
There’s a yawning gulf between the deplorable and the divine when it comes to Chardonnay – yet many regions manage to produce both. South America is no exception.
‘The results reveal a commendably high hit rate, the sweet spot being in the £12-£20 range’
Chile has the largest plantings of Chardonnay in South America, with 11,297ha (8% of the national vineyard). It’s the fourth most widely planted variety after Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot, producing 91 million litres of wine in 2019.
While there’s a fair amount of commercial dross, the overall standard of Chilean Chardonnay has improved markedly of late as producers promote freshness, typicity and, at the very top end, terroir. Quality hotspots include Limarí, Aconcagua Costa, Casablanca, San Antonio and Malleco. The deep south looks to hold good potential for the future, and there are promising things emerging from cooler Andean altitudes in the east.
Given that only 19% of Argentina’s vineyard is dedicated to white varieties, it’s little surprise that Chardonnay accounts for a paltry 3% of national plantings. With 6,044ha, it ranks sixth after Malbec, Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Torrontés. And yet the country’s finest Chardonnays have set an impressive standard – some of the best are grown at breathless altitude in the Uco region of Mendoza, with Tupungato a particular area of note. There are also good examples from the cooler latitudes of Patagonia further south.
Accurate data are hard to come by for Brazil, but Chardonnay undoubtedly ranks as one of the top Vitis vinifera plantings, mainly for sparkling wine, but also still. Producers such as Guaspari, Pizzato and Valduga have shown the potential for expressive, elegant styles. In Uruguay, Chardonnay ranks a measly ninth in plantings, with 104ha, yet the natural freshness, purity and refinement of the better examples clearly suggest a bright future for the variety, especially in more Atlantic terroirs. Chardonnay can also be found in Bolivia, Peru and further afield.
In order to select my top 20, I tasted 74 Chardonnays from Chile, Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay blind in February 2020. The best were re-tasted across another four sessions, all blind, one including food. The focus was on wines available in the UK (or US) market and under £20. Scores take price into account. The results reveal a commendably high hit rate, the sweet spot being in the £12-£20 range, with producers clearly prioritising freshness and texture, both essential qualities in the best Chardonnay. Wine lovers seeking alternatives to Burgundy and its pricey cousins would do well to check these out.
Peter Richards MW’s top 20 under £20
Arboleda, Chardonnay, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, 2017

94
Beautifully judged Chardonnay with real energy and focus. Excellent fruit quality and freshness allied to a well-integrated, praline and creamy-textured generosity. The oak is deftly integrated and the quality of both the vineyard site and winemaking expertise is evident.
2017
Aconcagua ValleyChile
Arboleda
Caliterra, Tributo Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 2018

94
Great value. Even though it’s oaked, this is a style more reminiscent of Chablis on speed, majoring on vibrant, crisp, crunchy citrus and green-apple fruit. Wonderfully harmonious and persistent with an attractive leesy texture and stony quality. Really cultured and classy.
2018
Casablanca ValleyChile
Caliterra
Errazuriz, Aconcagua Costa Chardonnay, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, 2018

93
The 2018 vintage was one of the coolest ever recorded in this vineyard, and the results, up to and including the top brand, Pizarras, are impressive. The focus on terroir, elegance and energy is commendable, and this wine is a beautifully poised expression of Chardonnay’s apple freshness with creamy texture. There’s an underlying minerality here that offsets the vibrant acidity and savoury depths to electric effect.
2018
Aconcagua ValleyChile
Errazuriz
Errazuriz, Max Reserva Chardonnay, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, 2017

93
Errazuriz is doing an outstanding job with Chardonnay and is now undoubtedly a leading name on the world stage. This is a style that wears its oak on its sleeve but in a stylish way, with toasted-nut and clotted-cream aromas leading into a complex but refreshing palate and an energetic, revitalising finish.
2017
Aconcagua ValleyChile
Errazuriz
Terrazas de los Andes, Reserva Chardonnay, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

93
Brimming with fresh curry-leaf and struck-match aromas, this is a wine with a very distinctive (‘reductive’) character. It’s well judged, though, and has just enough fruit weight to balance the toasty, savoury overlay. A food wine – put it with chicken and mushroom pie or a chunk of cheddar.
2018
MendozaArgentina
Terrazas de los AndesUco Valley
Finca Flichman, Dedicado Tupungato Vineyard Chardonnay, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, 2017

92
A generous, friendly Chardonnay that wraps your taste buds in an expansive bear hug of rich, golden flavours. Broad, creamy texture with flavours of toasted nuts and red apple. Effusive but stylish – lots of wine here.
2017
MendozaArgentina
Finca FlichmanUco Valley
Undurraga, TH Chardonnay, Limarí Valley, Chile, 2016

92
An extroverted style that sees flavours of roasted nuts, butter and red apple cascade over your palate. It’s very much at the creamy and generous end of the spectrum, the bottle age accentuating this character, but the fresh acidity and LImarí minerality balance it out nicely. One for Chardonnay hedonists.
2016
Limarí ValleyChile
Undurraga
Bodega Volcanes de Chile, Tectonia Chardonnay, Malleco Valley, Chile, 2017

Malleco is a quality hotspot for Chilean Chardonnay, the cool southerly region giving naturally vibrant acidity and age-worthy styles. This is a full-throttle style within...
2017
Malleco ValleyChile
Bodega Volcanes de Chile
Errazuriz, Wild Ferment Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 2018

92
One of the best-value Chardonnays from Errazuriz, and the easiest to find in the UK (the 2017 vintage is also excellent). Lovely balance of savoury and fruity characters, with minerality and a creamy texture. Stylish, lively, food friendly.
2018
Casablanca ValleyChile
Errazuriz
Bodega Atamisque, Catalpa Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

92
Proper Chardonnay! Cultured in feel, good fresh acidity with lovely body, breadth and depth. A relatively full-bodied style in the context, somewhat heavy-handed on the finish but nonetheless very drinkable and rewarding. Chill it properly and serve it with hearty food.
2018
MendozaArgentina
Bodega AtamisqueUco Valley
Cono Sur, Single Vineyard Block 5 Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 2018

91
Both fleshy and racy, this is a finely balanced Chardonnay with notes of clotted cream, lemon curd and fresh red apples. It’s a style that grows on you incrementally, with plenty to say for itself.
2018
Casablanca ValleyChile
Cono Sur
Familia Schroeder, Alpataco Chardonnay, Patagonia, Argentina, 2018

91
A gentle, unadorned rendition of Chardonnay, and very welcome for it. Crisp, fresh and upbeat – moreish and mouth-watering. An ideal aperitif or accompaniment for an oyster or two.
2018
PatagoniaArgentina
Familia Schroeder
Viña Edén, Chardonnay, Maldonado, Uruguay, 2017

91
Viña Edén, as the name intimates, is a captivating place, from the striking architecture to the panoramic views out towards Punta del Este and the Atlantic coast. It’s a relative newcomer on the Uruguayan scene but already making waves with its carefully crafted wines, this one an understated but richly textured rendition with a hint of orange rind.
2017
MaldonadoUruguay
Viña Edén
Concha y Toro, Marqués de Casa Concha Chardonnay, Limarí Valley, Chile, 2017

90
Smoky, rich and generous. Since launching its Maycas operation, Concha y Toro has been sourcing more and more Chardonnay from Limarí, and here’s why – the generous flavours are underscored by a fine balancing acidity and gentle earthiness and minerality. Toasty, peachy flavours and a touch of spice.
2017
Limarí ValleyChile
Concha y Toro
Familia Falasco, Hermandad Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, 2017

90
Takes a short while to get going in the glass, but when it does, it’s brimful of praline and tropical fruit with a wonderfully vibrant acidity and lifting spice on the finish. Grown at 1,150m altitude in Vista Flores (Uco).
2017
MendozaArgentina
Familia FalascoUco Valley
Santa Carolina, Reserva de Familia Chardonnay, Itata Valley, Chile, 2018

90
There’s both a ponderous richness and bright energy to this wine that just about manage to co-exist. On the one hand is the leesy, lactic, creamy, biscuity breadth of the thing. On the other is the appley acidity and energetic, spicy character. Tame it with a mushroom risotto.
2018
Itata ValleyChile
Santa Carolina
Morandé, Gran Reserva Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 2016

89
Okay, so it’s a bit old school (that whiff of popcorn is undeniable), but it’s also pretty winning. Generous flavours of clotted cream and buttered toast are matched by a lime-scented freshness underscoring it all. Rich but balanced.
2016
Casablanca ValleyChile
Morandé
Zuccardi, Apelación Tupungato Chardonnay, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018

88
The emphasis here is on freshness and upbeat, unalloyed fruit character. There’s a deft attention to detail in terms of the texture and stony hints, too. Flavours of fresh pears and peaches with hints of blanched nuts.
2018
MendozaArgentina
ZuccardiUco Valley
De Martino, Legado Reserva Chardonnay, Limarí Valley, Chile, 2017

87
An understated style with a gently enticing nose of fresh peach, melon and a hint of curry leaf. Elegant balance of fruit freshness and savoury, creamy elements. Subtle and stylish.
2017
Limarí ValleyChile
De Martino
Familia Deicas, Single Vineyard Juanicó Chardonnay, Canelones, Uruguay, 2019

87
Plush and expansive, with a sour cream and roasted-lemon character. It’s a generous wine that harks back to Chardonnays of the past, but it’s a style that grows on you, winning you over with its insistent acidity and peachy fruit.
2019
CanelonesUruguay
Familia Deicas
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As a broadcaster, writer and Master of Wine, Peter Richards is a familiar face to many, known for his unique blend of enthusiasm and erudition. His credits include more than a decade on BBC1 plus Sky One, ESPN, Financial Times, The Guardian, ITV1, Radio 4, BBC2 and The Sunday Times.
He is a regular Decanter contributor as well as chairman of the Decanter Retailer Awards and regional chair at the Decanter World Wine Awards.
Together with his wife, Susie Barrie MW, he co-hosts the acclaimed Wine Blast podcast, a top-10 show in worldwide charts including the US and UK. The pair also host the annual Wine Festival Winchester, described as, ‘the finest wine festival in the country’.