The 30 best South African wines under £20/$30
South Africa has its fair share of bargains, as well as premium wines that rub shoulders with the world’s best. But it is quality in that middle ground, between £10/$15 and £20/$30, that is often hard to find. Greg Sherwood MW was happy to take on the challenge...
If you haven’t been drinking South African wines over the past five years, you’ve been missing out big time. Where have you been? South Africa, in my opinion, is making the most exciting wines of any New World country at the moment, with several wineries producing reds and whites that are more dynamic than many equivalent offerings from the masters in France, Italy and Spain. Yes, call me biased, but read – and taste – on. South Africa’s time is most definitely now.
With such high quality and growing fame comes increased demand and, inevitably, increased prices. The weak rand has helped to mitigate the pace of this somewhat, but many of South Africa’s best wines are now sitting comfortably between £25/$35 and £50/$70 a bottle. So when Decanter asked me to seek out 30 South African wines under £20/$30 that I would be happy to recommend, it was an exciting challenge that I couldn’t refuse.
‘South Africa, in my opinion, is making the most exciting wines of any New World country at the moment’
Over 20 years of buying fine wine, I’ve increasingly noticed the South African category develop the ‘doughnut effect’: plenty of mass-market, branded offerings at entry- level prices under £10/$15, and then noticeably slim pickings until you pass the £20/$30 price point. However, this is by no means a unique phenomenon. It was also a challenge for Californian producers in the mid-to-late 2000s; with no middle ground of wines in which to trade up to, wine lovers were unable to expand their interest in the state’s wines.
South African producers are now more aware of this ‘hole’ between £10/$15 and £20/$30, and have identified the opportunity to offer high-quality products that not only have classical styling but also moderate ageability should consumers wish to cellar them further at home.
Broad scope
After four drought-affected vintages and reduced yields, 2019 has seen a welcome return of healthy harvests and improved quality, so now is perhaps the perfect time to reacquaint yourself with some of the better-value offerings available from this vibrant and dynamic wine-producing country.
In selecting some of my favourite sub-£20$30 wines, I didn’t try to allocate a certain quantity to any individual variety or specific region. However, looking at my final selection, it has a naturally balanced feel of diversity and classicism, highlighting the exceptional value and quality still to be found with wines made from premium varieties such as Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay, as well as up-and-coming grapes in the Cape like Cinsault and Grenache, plus superb classics such as Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah-based red blends from Swartland.
Consumers have finally started to look beyond the European continent for their quality fizz fix, and one of the indirect beneficiaries of this more open thinking (in addition to the growth of English sparkling wine) has been Methode Cap Classique – South Africa’s traditional-method, bottle-fermented sparkling wine. Quality has never been better, and with South African producers focusing primarily on the three Champagne varieties of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier for the majority of production, you’d be missing a trick if you ignore some of these exceptional wines, which are now being exported in ever-increasing quantities.
Whether your preference is for white, red, bubbles or the Cape’s stunning dessert wines, there’s a broad range of grapes and styles among my 30 suggestions that follow to suit every palate – and every pocket. No one does quality and value like South Africa.
Sherwood’s 30 Best South African Wines under £20/$30
Graham Beck, MCC Blanc de Blancs Brut, Robertson, South Africa, 2014
92
Possibly the best-value Methode Cap Classique on the market. This pure Chardonnay excels to new heights of quality, mimicking some of the finest blanc de blancs Champagnes with chalky-dry white citrus notes and classic lemon biscuit and brioche complexity.
2014
Graham Beck
Simonsig, Kaapse Vonkel MCC Rosé Brut, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
90
A superbly authentic style of quality Methode Cap Classique – 64% Pinot Noir, 34% Pinotage and 2% Pinot Meunier in the 2016 blend – possessing fine creamy mousse, delicate notes of grated ginger, fresh strawberries and cream together with fabulously vibrant freshness and persistence.
2017
Simonsig
The Foundry, Grenache Blanc, Voor Paardeberg, Paarl, South Africa, 2018
95
Real class and authority: fine, lifted white blossom aromas, hints of lemon biscuits, baking herbs and white stone fruits. Palate is rich but restrained, with well-honed, focused fruit purity and impressive balancing minerality. It has a characteristically rich, fleshy mouthfeel and texture, flavours of citrus, tangerine and baked green apple.
2018
The FoundryVoor Paardeberg
Swartland Winery, Bush Vine Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa, 2017
95
<p>A lovely, flavourful and classically styled Chenin Blanc, boasting rich aromas of lemon, apple pie and vanilla wafers in peaches and cream. Develops seductive flavours of dried yellow orchard fruits with citrus hints following through to a long, creamy and glycerol-textured finish.</p>
2017
Swartland Winery
Elgin Ridge, 282 Chardonnay, Elgin, South Africa, 2017
94
Organic and biodynamic, this wine is full of grapefruit bonbon concentration, citrus pastilles, lime peel and a toffee apple kiss. Vibrant and intense with incredible piercing length. A really very special wine – one for white Burgundy lovers.
2017
Elgin Ridge
Jordan Wine Estate, Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018
94
A Stellenbosch star performer. Walks the perfect tightrope in balancing rich, leesy biscuit notes with sweet white peach, grapefruit and lemon cordial concentration with a kiss of vanilla oak spice. A wine that has a level of complexity it has no right to at this price.
2018
Jordan Wine Estate
Hannes Storm, Wild Air Sauvignon Blanc, Hemel en Arde, South Africa, 2018
94
A really serious expression of Sauvignon Blanc from Hannes Storm that is loaded with quince, tropical yellow fruits, gooseberry and a hint of green mango peel. Creamy and mineral with super concentration – the New World answer to Sancerre.
2018
Hannes Storm
Kaapzicht, Kliprug Bush Vine Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018
94
A rich, deep, complex nose of yellow orchard fruits, white peach and creamy apple puree. The palate is fabulously plush, showing honeyed pineapples, leesy yellow fruits and a real crystalline purity. Plenty of gravitas, fruit weight, focus and textural complexity, from Bottelary Hills fruit.
2018
Kaapzicht
Terracura Wines, Smiley V5 Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa
94
This non-vintage, pure Chenin Blanc is a blend of a stainless steel portion, a skin-contact portion, a maderised portion and a portion under flor, all assembled and blended to perfection. The V5 or fifth version from multiple vintages is one of Ryan Mostert’s most accomplished expressions to date. Slightly quirky yet thoroughly entrancing and palate-seducing.
Terracura Wines
Rustenberg, Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018
93
A perennial overperformer, offering incredible quality for the price. Rich and expressive, vibrant and fresh, yet always intelligently oaked and superbly well balanced. Seductive orange peel and honeysuckle nose, sweet lemon cordial, vanilla pod and green melon purity on the finish.
2018
Rustenberg
Strandveld, First Sighting Sauvignon Blanc, Cape Agulhas, South Africa, 2018
93
Displays genuinely lively fresh nettle and elderflower aromas. Very expressive wine with typical cool-climate grass and white citrus notes and a wonderfully balanced palate that is both intense and fresh, with seriously persistent length and focus. Drink this in its first year or two for the extra freshness and vigour.
2018
Strandveld
Paul Cluver, Riesling, Elgin, South Africa, 2017
92
One of the finest expressions of Riesling in South Africa. The cool Elgin climate emphasises the full steeliness of the grape’s acidity, using it as a frame to hang layers of pure white peach and citrus fruit, intense lime cordial and a lovely long, balanced, green-apple finish with just the faintest hint of residual sweetness.
2017
Paul Cluver
Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines, Kloof Street Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa, 2018
91
A pretty little Chenin Blanc, from grapes grown on schist and granite soils, that shows dusty minerals, yellow citrus fruit, dry straw, peach stone and a subtle nutty complexity. The palate is fresh and rounded with good fruit weight, hints of dried herbs and a stony pineapple finish.
2018
Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines
Springfield Estate, Special Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc, Robertson, South Africa, 2018
91
This vintage shows the varietal purity of Sauvignon Blanc with sweet boiled apple bonbons, cut grass, asparagus and crunchy green fruits. Vibrant and fresh, the palate displays fine concentration and an intense, sweet ’n’ sour gooseberry confit finish.
2018
Springfield Estate
Radford Dale, Vinum Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
90
Not made to be too unctuous or overbearing, this clean, crisp, versatile Chenin Blanc is mineral-laden on the nose and palate, showing plenty of cut grass, crunchy fresh pineapple and white peach notes with a dusty, granitic, dry finish.
2017
Radford Dale
Bosman Family Vineyards, Generation 8 Chenin Blanc, Wellington, South Africa, 2018
89
A very fine, classical expression of Chenin Blanc at a great price. Packed full of dusty minerality, dried herbs and wet thatch aromas, the palate is pure and linear, with moderate weight of pithy yellow peach and orchard fruits, bright citrus and a spicy, green-apple finish.
2018
Bosman Family Vineyards
Naudé, Grenache, Wellington, South Africa, 2017
94
Maestro winemaker Ian Naudé has created a seriously impressive Grenache from younger vines. Using 80% whole-bunch fermentation, this classically styled red resonates with a violet perfume, spicy red cherry fruit, wild strawberries, brambles and a hint of Chinese five-spice complexity.
2017
Naudé
Naudé, Cinsault, Paarl, South Africa, 2017
93
Dense aromas of wild red brambles, damsons and dried cranberries with a hint of marzipan, Turkish Delight and crushed rose petals. These 20-year-old Cinsault bush vines have yielded a soft, sleek, vibrant expression, with granitic minerality and a seductive crystalline freshness on the finish.
2017
Naudé
The Foundry, Grenache, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
93
<p>Deep, alluring ruby colour. The nose displays a lovely fleshy red-fruit quality made complex with strawberry compote, a pinch of black pepper and a blood-orange note. A wine that is all about the mouthfeel, with fleshy characteristics supported by powdery, granitic mineral tannins.</p>
2017
The Foundry
Welbedacht Estate, Cricket Pitch, Wellington, South Africa, 2013
93
A blend of Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, with a beautifully lifted perfume of rose petals, violets and lilies together with sweet cassis fruit. A sleek, classical Bordeaux blend with the fine fruit pedigree of the Groenberg Ward.
2013
Welbedacht Estate
Marras Wines, Shiraz-Cinsault, Swartland, South Africa, 2018
92
Winemaker Marras Lamprecht has produced a superb blend here, using 10% of whole bunches. Showing complex aromatic nuances of rose petals, violets and sappy grilled herbs, the palate is supple and fleshy yet also displays a weightless concentration of red berry fruit, plum spice and savoury woodsmoke.
2018
Marras Wines
Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines, Kloof Street Red, Swartland, South Africa, 2017
92
Syrah with 4% Carignan, 2% Grenache, 2% Cinsault, 1% Tinta Barroca and 1% Mourvèdre. Beautiful notes of sweet grilled herbs, barbecued and cured meat, fleshy, sappy black berry fruits and tapenade leading to a deliciously distinguished long finish. Real class for the money.
2017
Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines
Welbedacht Estate, Bohemian Syrah, Wellington, South Africa, 2016
92
Rich and savoury, black bramble berries, sweet cassis, cured meats and crushed coriander and peppercorn spice. This is like a V8 Chevy engine under a Porsche bonnet, with a plush, smoky, savoury finish. A really punchy style.
2016
Welbedacht Estate
Journey's End, Sir Lowry Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2016
91
This wine is pulsating and bold, boasting rich, sweet black berry fruits, perfumed violet lift and cedar oak spice. The dense, fleshy plummy core has all the archetypal Stellenbosch hallmarks of sweet tobacco, fresh herbs, saddle leather, Christmas cake and forest floor depth.
2016
Journey's End
Reyneke, Organic Cabernet-Merlot, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
91
All of Johan Reyneke’s wines display real elegance and plushness of fruit and this is no exception. It shows layers of pure blackcurrant pastilles, tanned leather, sweet tobacco and an earthy, plummy palate with subtle notes of graphite minerality punctuating the sleek and textured finish.
2017
Reyneke
Rustenberg, Malbec, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017
91
Malbec is not all about Argentina these days. Indeed, efforts like this show how this grape has taken to South African terroir like a duck to water. Opulent and gregarious, this wine shows lovely generosity of dark plum fruits, hints of sappy brambles and a long, vibrant, slightly hedonistic finish. A real crowd-pleaser.
2017
Rustenberg
Warwick Estate, The First Lady Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2016
90
A fabulously soft, sleek and elegant varietal Cabernet that, despite its sweet, opulent blackcurrant fruit and fleshy, cedary mid-palate, retains classical poise, mineral graphite nuances and a fine complexity of leather, and cigar box. Another one for the Bordeaux lovers.
2016
Warwick Estate
Alphabetical, Vin Ordinaire Red, Western Cape, South Africa, 2017
89
A successful blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Shiraz, this is wonderfully pure-fruited. It has fleshy, chocolatey, earthy blackberry richness on the palate, a lift of candied oranges and peppermint crisp chocolate, and a soft and supple textured finish.
2017
Alphabetical
Paul Cluver, Noble Late Harvest Riesling, Elgin, South Africa, 2017
94
Intense, mineral nose: apple, peppery ginger and candied orange peel. Carried along by brilliantly gleaming acidity. D
2017
Paul Cluver
Naudé, Natural Sweet Mourvèdre, Swartland, South Africa, 2014
94
Grapes are picked at different times and expertly blended to present a lush, opulent, almost Amarone-like wine that is at once sweet but also thoroughly mouthwatering and refreshing. Originally created to pair with all manner of cheese and dessert courses. Seductive, hedonistic and so delicious!
2014
Naudé
